DART Blocks do not have vin numbers on them. In SoCal, I`d be really scared to get pulled over w/ one.

 

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It doesn't work like that. If you bored stock sleeves to 87mm I don't think you would have a sleeve left.

You have to sleeve the block first, and then bore that. The aftermarket sleeves are thicker and stronger then the oem sleeves, but 87mm bore is really pushing it on them. I've seen pics off GE sleeved blocks bored to 85, but the wall still looks really thin.

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I contacted Crower about their 2.26L stoker kit for a B20, and they said they bore it then you can have it sleeved if wanted.

 

you sleeve THEN bore. usually 84mm is the max they recommend on a sleeved motor for boosted engines. 87mm is an extreme bore even for NA. if you want a boosted motor then you dont need to have a 2.3 or whatever liter block, the turbo makes up for the displacement. if you want a boosted motor stay with an 89mm or shorter stroke and 84mm bore. the kinda cars that run 95mm strokes and 87mm bored are extreme NA cars and also prolly have deck plates added so they dont have a b20a r/s ratio and are runnin 18:1 cr in pro race motors.

personally i think that if you have say a b18b/c block and your thinkin of gettin it sleeved then a dart block sounds like a good idea. you oculd just swap over everything and have a nasty engine to boot.

 

I've been thinking... What is the point of it other than being light and stronger? The parts I will be using might as well be bullerproof so what does it matter if it is 4x strong as OEM? Anyone know how much boost a STOCK Dart block will take?

 

well GE isnt perfect if thats what you are refering to and theres no such thing as "bullett proof". as far as uses the fact that it had the option to run a taller decked block sounds good to me. also its a closed deck block with enlarged cooling passages so its stronger than na open deck without the cooling problems of going to closed deck. also comes with oil squirters (not a big deal) and its a brand new block!

as far as cost it seems reasonable if its $1950 and its ready to go (ie bored/honed ect). GE charges about 1000 for sleeving, boring and honing plus the cost of the block that you have to send them.

if i was building a motor from the ground up i would seriously consider this...

 

the blocks have there own ID number. talking to mark i think that was his name about that question with the VIN numbers. He said your going to have to talk to your local 50 station and your insureance company.

 

Just a fyi , the dart blocks dont come bored and honed, and you need to have them decked.

 

Hi...i am currently thinking of getting myself one of those Dart block. could you enlighten wat's the diff between the b18 dart and b20 dart besides the extra height difference? also, i realised you mentioned about the hood problem. are you saying with the tall deck dart....you can't close the hood???

care to enlighten me??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soon_2b_evil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the another day i actually ordered my block and i've just gotten it. on the box it says 74lbs. Everything on your stock block you can use on the dart. The differents between the b18 and b20 and that the b20 is the one with the extra height. From talking to Tom from Payn Tech your going to have some clearance problem the your hood. The b18 you can get in 84.5mm thats the one i got. I was going to get a whole new rebuild of my botom end thur GEM and i found out to me that i would actually save a couple of hundreds dollars going with the dart block. Also the block is 4 times stonger then the stock. Someone said about what would happen if a pistons was to go thur it. Also talking to Tom from Payn Tech that the block is reWELDable. So how is that going to work and how its goiing to hold after something like that was to happen i have no clue. Anything else i can try to answer?</TD></TR></TABLE>You said the block is "4 times stronger than stock" Where did you get that piece of info, and what does it mean? It may very well be true, but it sounds kind of arbitrary! 4 times? 4 times stronger how? Can hold more power before sleeves giving out? Stonger main bearing saddle? Explain yourself please--because I am very curious.

 

One thing you also might want to consider is that the block is brand new and has all perfect threads. I just bought a "built" block from a big name company and while all the machine work is perfect I found out later on in the build that it needed 3! timeserts on the headstuds, the side motor mount holes were stripped, and the tensioner bolt hole was stripped. I really wish I would have considered with going with a DART, I dont participate in any sanctioned races so I really dont mind that it doesn't fit the rule book.

 

id put money on the dart block being heavier then a stock block. dont know by how much but more most definitatly.

 

Someone asked way earlier "Has anyone seen what the B20 version is been bored out to?"

 

This thread is 2 years old...

 

Search function is handy

 

first off the block can take alot more pressure from either really high boost or high compression, and there slightly lighter than oem honda blocks. if your going for a sreet setup not really worth the$$$, now track is another story

 

theres not much difference between the two except block height.
tall block does create problems with oem hood closing all the way.
i purchased the b20 and running a b 20 crank in it sleeved to 85mm. i learned
with this block that everything on it requires gsr parts including gsr head gasket
even if it is b20 style. which to me was great cause it kept ordering parts for it
simple and easier to get. so which ever one you choose youll still run gsr parts
on it. b20 style also has provision for piston oil sprayers and oil passage through
block for vtec with out having to run external oikl line. so pretty much with dart
you have a gsr engine thats really flexible to go any way with it stroker,turbo,na
whatever. great block man.