So i finally got to honing my cylinder walls today. After getting the hone through 'em i noticed some damage on mostly cylinder 1 and 3. Let me know if I should do something about it like machine work, sleeving. I hope it can work! Thanks guys.
Before:

After:

 

Bump!

 

if you cant feel/grab those scratches with your finger nail then its should be ok.

 

That's the thing, i can feel that big one on cylinder 1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the thing, i can feel that big one on cylinder 1. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How hard does it snag your nail? It doesn't run the length of the cylinder bore and is very small judging by the picture. It doesn't even look that deep either.

 

Its about a quarter inch long, maybe less. It's about less than a centimeter deep. My friend thinks that it looks fine and I'm probably over reacting but it's my motor, you know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its about a quarter inch long, maybe less. It's about less than a centimeter deep. My friend thinks that it looks fine and I'm probably over reacting but it's my motor, you know?</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what you have described, its not an issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its about a quarter inch long, maybe less. It's about less than a centimeter deep. My friend thinks that it looks fine and I'm probably over reacting but it's my motor, you know?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I would think anything near a centimeter deep would be thru the sleeve.

 

Well it doesn't look like it would be a threat to going through the sleeve. I'm just worried about it causing compression problems.

 

The problem you are going to run into, depending on how much power you are running, is that if you run into any detonation issues that part of the cylinder will be the first to crack.

 

I was starting to notice patterns in damage on this particular piston.
Crank Journal:



Connecting Rod:



Rod Bearings:



Do you guys think any of this could be related?

 

Well any kind of chewed up bearing is bad. is that why the motor was taken apart?
so i take it these scratches were made by the motor runing and not by a careless mistake? like a droped tool or something.. yes ive seen it happen to a friend after he got done honeing his Chevy 350 he droped one of his main caps down the cylinder bore.. made a small dent in the cylinder
he had to change the final bore size and pistons because of it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rod Bearings:



</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

That thing looks like it got beat to death. Whats the story with this engine/setup?

 

The cylinder damage is not a mistake but normal wear. The story with the motor is it's a B16A2 that i picked up for fairly cheap. The fool that had it before me was running a dry shot through the intake runners. The guys I got it from said it had bad compression. So I decided to change the rings, bearings, and gaskets through the whole thing. I figured that bearing was the result of someone not checking clearances or not checking the oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cylinder damage is not a mistake but normal wear. The story with the motor is it's a B16A2 that i picked up for fairly cheap. The fool that had it before me was running a dry shot through the intake runners. The guys I got it from said it had bad compression. So I decided to change the rings, bearings, and gaskets through the whole thing. I figured that bearing was the result of someone not checking clearances or not checking the oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The bearing looks flattened, and the heat on the rod would indicate that it spun also. I would estimate that that one cylinder ran lean, detonated and eventually pounded the bearing/tang off and then spun it. Dry shots are pretty scary from what I have read. Wet is the way to go. Never messed with nitrous much myself.

 

I'll never touch the stuff. Not after seeing the inside of this motor. But my real question is, will it be ok?

 

it will be ok as long as you find new rods and crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it will be ok as long as you find new rods and crank. </TD></TR></TABLE>

depending on the dmg to the crank(you have to mic the journals) you may be able to have it polished. if the dmg is too deep then new crank it is... i would try to save the part befor i order a new one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TooManyTickets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

depending on the dmg to the crank(you have to mic the journals) you may be able to have it polished. if the dmg is too deep then new crank it is... i would try to save the part befor i order a new one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you need a new crank I have an almost complete 00 Si shortblock with 30k miles on it. Was boosted, broke the ringlands on two cylinders. The block needs to be bored over to fix minor cylinder scratches but the rods and crank are in excellent condition. I'd sell you the rods and crank for $100 + ship.

 

See the thing about it is, I was just planning on getting this running then building up a B20 so if i need to go ahead and pitch this block then i might as well replace it with one with torque, you know what I mean? So you guys really think that rod and crank are toasted?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So you guys really think that rod and crank are toasted?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did not say the crank.. but rods for sure.
You need to find the wear specs for your engines crank and mic the jourals to see if there within spec... if the dmg is obvious then pitch it
if u can feel your fingernail grab anything across the surface its a good bet that the scratch is more than .001in deep

 

I can't feel anything on the journal.

 

then its time to bust out a set of mics and find the wear specs for your engines crank journals... they should be in your service manual(i hope u bought one)
then see if its in spec... if it is.. i would not get a new crank

Edit: i forgot make sure u take a measurement at the top, middle, and bottom of the journal to make sure that it didnt wear in a tapered fasion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TooManyTickets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then its time to bust out a set of mics and find the wear specs for your engines crank journals... they should be in your service manual(i hope u bought one)
then see if its in spec... if it is.. i would not get a new crank

Edit: i forgot make sure u take a measurement at the top, middle, and bottom of the journal to make sure that it didnt wear in a tapered fasion</TD></TR></TABLE>

So i need a mic... where do I get one of these and about how much are they.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd sell you the rods and crank for $100 + ship. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If my crank is ok, how much would you charge me for just the rods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyoh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So i need a mic... where do I get one of these and about how much are they. </TD></TR></TABLE>

take it to a machine shop and have them do it for you