Does anyone have experience with a B20b/z block & CTR head swap? I am about to purchase a B20 longblock to begin my "Project Swap". I plan on staying N/A and using all stock internals (modified B20 pistons, B20 rods & crank, ctr head, etc...) Its gonna get dropped into an EK hatch. Anyone with this setup have some 1/4mi. times or dyno numbers? Thanks...

 

I would definately check into valve clearance if you are planning on using the CTR cams. My friend has a CRVTEC motor which composes of a B20B block, Portflow GSR head, CTR cams, sprockets, JE 84.5mm forged 12.5:1 pistons, RC 310cc injectors, Type R ECU, and a VAFC. In his EK he ran a 12.8@106 with just no interior.

 

slicks?

probly, wicked time!

what rods did your friend use JDMspecEG6?

TIA,

t..

 

Nice....Im gonna be using the entire B16b head, ctr intake manny, itr throttle body, and hondata ecu. Know anyone that uses b20 pistons for N/A? I know the valve reliefs need to be resized for vtec valves, but 8.8:1 ( i think thats stock b20) seems a little low for no boost, yeah?

 

The b20z and the high comp. jdm b20b will have valve conflict at high rpm. The usdm b20b is low compression and doesnt have the prob.

 

bump...

 

Stock rods with ARP rod bolts, M&H Racemaster 22x9.5x13 on Bogart Pro 4's. The car still has a lil problem with traction even with a traction bar. His best 60ft. is like a 1.87. I'll try and get a couple of his runs on here. I hooked up a cam on the inside of the car and I have several outside runs.

 

I have a crvtec that i did myself. Gsr head/b20b block. All stock internals except type r cams. The pistons have been cut into so that the valves dont hit. There are not really a whole lot of other things you have to do. go to c-speed and they have full instructions. I run a 13.31 at 102.4 in my hatch with stripped interior. I dont think thats bad for stock internals and i know that i could do better when i put in my new tranny with the powerdrive spool.

 

nice

how did you cut the pistons? yourself? how deep?

which ECU? what is your chosen rev limit?

t..

 

I'm hoping to go CRVTEC in a year or so after buying a b20 block & building the bottom end. I've looked into various forged pistons & am leaning towards getting some from Import Builders. If I remember right, Jeff emailed me a while back that they are having their own spec pistons made specifically for CRVTEC motors (I think JE will be making them for Import Builders). IMO, the guys at Import Builders are among the most knowledgeable when it comes to making CRVTEC/LSVTEC motors that perform well and are reliable, so I figure I can't go wrong using their custom pistons. I'm also leaning towards Probe ultralight rods to go with the new pistons - I'm shooting for 220whp/160tq in a reliable daily driver...

Good luck with whatever you decide, but I'd make sure to clay the motor before you ever fire it up!

Eric

If you don't get a response from Jeff here, you can email sales@importbuilders.com - they've been very cool about replying with good info to my inquiries...


[Modified by 90CivicEX, 4:49 AM 7/17/2002]

 

nice

how did you cut the pistons? yourself? how deep?

which ECU? what is your chosen rev limit?

t..


a machine shop did the cutting of my pistions. I have a stock gsr ecu with the 8000rpm redline everything about my management is stock.

 

Hybrid - Wow you are running a 13.3 with 8.8:1 compression? Very nice. How much did your entire swap cost (with install)? My goal is somewhere around 200whp for a daily driver. My main concern is reliability. Did you have any machine work done to your engine? I want to lighten, balance and knife edge the B20 crank, hot tank, get a valve job, and a port and polish. Anyone have other suggestions as to ensuring reliability?


[Modified by Rydaddy, 9:18 AM 7/17/2002]

 

ARP rod bolts & ARP head studs?

probly better to spend your $$$ on these than a knife edged crank (which Honda should have already balanced from factory...)

t..

 

ARP head studs and rod bolts *makes mental note*
I only said i was going to balance the crank because i am having it lightened first. Im not sure if balancing is implied when lightening . Any other suggested machine work that increases reliability?

 

I have a 93 civic si witha b20z block with 12.5-1 pistons and a type r head with b17 cams ran by a 95 gsr ecu. I have only been getting 9.1 1/8 mile runs at 77mph which in return is about a high 13 around 97 mph. I really need a lighter civic or some more aggressive cams

 

Hybrid - Wow you are running a 13.3 with 8.8:1 compression? Very nice. How much did your entire swap cost (with install)? My goal is somewhere around 200whp for a daily driver. My main concern is reliability. Did you have any machine work done to your engine? I want to lighten, balance and knife edge the B20 crank, hot tank, get a valve job, and a port and polish. Anyone have other suggestions as to ensuring reliability?

I had the dowel pin holes drilled obviously and the oil hole tapped and plugged but thats it. You need those done to run this combo. It only cost me $50 for labor because of the machine work, otherwise I did everything else myself. (so it cost me nothing.) The block cost $400 with exchange of my gsr. So I gained about a second on my 1/4 for about $700 total. It is really worth it and I would encourage you to do it. Definately invest in ARP head studs. They are expensive but you can reuse them and they are tons stronger than stock. I also have arp rod bolts too, so you may want to think about that. With my setup Id say Im probly getting in the ballpark of 200whp. Just watch out for what Im building next.

 

hey highbrid, nice one!

did you use ARP 203-6001 rod bolts? did you run into any clearance problems?

are you using all GSR parts elsewhere eg intake/head etc?

cool,

t..


[Modified by tinkerbell, 10:38 AM 7/18/2002]

 

Here is my parts list so far.... *deep breath*
Block: B20B/Z
Head: B16B/B18C5
Intake Manny: B16B/B18C5
Throttle Body: ITR
Rods: B20
Pistons: Either modified B20 or JG
Tranny: 94+ gsr
ECU: Hondata
Headers: ITR
ARP head studs/rod bolts, AEM fuel rail, FPR, ACT 6-puck clutch, Fidanza flywheel, CTR cams, Holley fuel pump, gsr linkage
*phew*
Does anyone know of an engine supplier/builder that would piece all this together for me so i dont have to buy from 50,000,000 different sources and do it myself?

 

Here is my parts list so far.... *deep breath*
Block: B20B/Z
Head: B16B/B18C5
Intake Manny: B16B/B18C5
Throttle Body: ITR
Rods: B20
Pistons: Either modified B20 or JG
Tranny: 94+ gsr
ECU: Hondata
Headers: ITR
ARP head studs/rod bolts, AEM fuel rail, FPR, ACT 6-puck clutch, Fidanza flywheel, CTR cams, Holley fuel pump, gsr linkage
*phew*
Does anyone know of an engine supplier/builder that would piece all this together for me so i dont have to buy from 50,000,000 different sources and do it myself?


Good choice on most of the stuff. Ive just got a couple suggestions. When buying a head pretty much any b series is the same as long as it has vtec. The only thing is with the gsr the bolt patterns for the manifold is different than the b16 or c5. Second thing I dont think JG makes pistons, maybe Im wrong, but I think you meant je. If thats the case then Id say thumbs up. Its alright to use b20 rods too but Id say if you have some extra cash and the engine is already opened up get some crowers. Maybe just put the fuel rail and flywheel money towards some rods. Make sure when you buy the head studs that you buy the studs that go with the head that you get. So if you get a b18c5 head get the b18c5 studs, not the b20 ones. Hope this helps some.

 

oh yeah i forgot to reply to tinkerbells questions. Everything on my engine is gsr parts. Ive got a cheap intake and dc headers and an act clutch, stock flywheel, stock manifold, bla bla bla

 

Yah i meant JE . From what i understand, the B16B head is just a better flowing B16a. I was thinking about getting a b16a head, but I am using mostly b16B internals (bumpsticks, valve springs, retainers, etc....) so buying a CTR head would just save me time and machine work. Thanks for all the info highbrid