crx w/ z6 help
Hello we just finished everything.. kinda... here ill just try to explain this the best i can 
alrite so we where getting an engine code, when i plugged in a wire to the blue jumper under the dash my engine check light flashed 6 times, this was for the water temperature sensor. we checked all the green/white wires and located a loose pin in the engine harness plug. Upon fixing this we no longer received the 6 flashes and the engine check light would turn itself off immediatly, but the ecu still beeps 6 times.
also is it possible to swap your Coolent temp and TW sensors?

alrite so we where getting an engine code, when i plugged in a wire to the blue jumper under the dash my engine check light flashed 6 times, this was for the water temperature sensor. we checked all the green/white wires and located a loose pin in the engine harness plug. Upon fixing this we no longer received the 6 flashes and the engine check light would turn itself off immediatly, but the ecu still beeps 6 times.
also is it possible to swap your Coolent temp and TW sensors?
please help!
so the car starts up fine, engine check light turns off right away, but as soon as the engine warms up it will not idle by itself w/o some throttle, it just stalls.
the ecu also still beeps 6 times when the key is turned on.
so the car starts up fine, engine check light turns off right away, but as soon as the engine warms up it will not idle by itself w/o some throttle, it just stalls.
the ecu also still beeps 6 times when the key is turned on.
is it possible to swap the collant temp sensor and the TW sensor? ones in the block and ones on the head. if they are somehow accidentally swapped will this effect my car? i read that one of the sensors runs the fan and the other goes to the ecu.
please help, im supposta have my federal inspection for the car in 5 days and i need to to work properly
please help, im supposta have my federal inspection for the car in 5 days and i need to to work properly
alrite a bit of progress, perhaps..
we (me and my dad) thinkg that perhaps the cam timing is out, we have retarded the distributor as far as we can and still its not good. The edelbrock cam gear has been advanced 1 degree (2 degree's at the crank). It was to be 2 degrees cam advance, we saw the 2 and so we anly moved it one notch.
the car will still not idle at anythign under 1000 rpm, we can followed the toruble shooting in the 92-95 manual
thanks for any help
maybe the cam gear is not advanced enough or it was retarded and not advanced (10A stamped in gear to left, 10R stamped in gear to the right) We are one notch to the left.?
Modified by c0nspire at 8:05 AM 10/30/2004
Modified by c0nspire at 4:18 PM 10/30/2004
we (me and my dad) thinkg that perhaps the cam timing is out, we have retarded the distributor as far as we can and still its not good. The edelbrock cam gear has been advanced 1 degree (2 degree's at the crank). It was to be 2 degrees cam advance, we saw the 2 and so we anly moved it one notch.
the car will still not idle at anythign under 1000 rpm, we can followed the toruble shooting in the 92-95 manual
thanks for any help
maybe the cam gear is not advanced enough or it was retarded and not advanced (10A stamped in gear to left, 10R stamped in gear to the right) We are one notch to the left.?
Modified by c0nspire at 8:05 AM 10/30/2004
Modified by c0nspire at 4:18 PM 10/30/2004
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due to engine mods where we supposta advance the cam 1 deg, but the cam gear was labeled wrong so then we actually advanced it 2 degrees and now its a bit jumpy, goign to retard it one degree now (final position advanced 1)
should fix it i hope
should fix it i hope
The belt was out one tooth on the cam gear. I used the Edelbrock gear markings (9:00 and 3:00) and aligned them with the D15B alighnment marks on the plastic cover attached to the head behind the cam gear. Does not work for a D16Z6, it puts you out one tooth. The way to do it is to align with the factory gear and then swap out for the aftermarket gear.
I'm learning
I'm learning
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