Crank Pulley Bolt
#1
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Crank Pulley Bolt
Is the crank pulley bolt normal or reverse threaded?
I have a Helms, have consulted it, and don't see any mention of it being reverse threaded. I would love some confirmation of that before I break out the impact wrench though...
thanks
jeff
I have a Helms, have consulted it, and don't see any mention of it being reverse threaded. I would love some confirmation of that before I break out the impact wrench though...
thanks
jeff
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (JeffS)
Usually reverse tread bolts have notches in the middle of the sides on the corners....i.e. in the middle of the pointy part.
Edit: I sounds like a fricken third grader.
[Modified by Spade, 8:42 AM 2/20/2002]
Edit: I sounds like a fricken third grader.
[Modified by Spade, 8:42 AM 2/20/2002]
#3
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (Spade)
This is normal thread
make sure to hit it with quick short blast with as much PSI in the tank as you can get.
[Modified by Crazydave, 9:04 AM 2/20/2002]
make sure to hit it with quick short blast with as much PSI in the tank as you can get.
[Modified by Crazydave, 9:04 AM 2/20/2002]
#5
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (FSTASNTZ)
Once the bolt is off, how would you torque that bolt back to spec?-- Or do you just give it what your cheap impact gun can do in forward?
#6
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (3rdGteg)
You should use a torque wrench when putting it back on. I didn't have a good impact wrench when I had to take mine off a couple weeks ago. I was able to stick a strong bolt (I tried a screwdriver and it broke on me), through the flywheel to keep the crank from spinning. Then a 1/2" ratchet with a cheater bar got it off.
#7
Will you make something up for me please?
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (Brian_92GSR)
You should use a torque wrench when putting it back on. I didn't have a good impact wrench when I had to take mine off a couple weeks ago. I was able to stick a strong bolt (I tried a screwdriver and it broke on me), through the flywheel to keep the crank from spinning. Then a 1/2" ratchet with a cheater bar got it off.
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#12
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (kf_Type-R)
It's a 33mm nut - of course you're familier with the way metric fasteners are sized I hope....just go somewhere that sells a good variety of metric fasteners and ask for a 33mm nut. The thread pitch doesn't matter (1.5 or 2) because the measurement across the flats is the same (50mm). I'm not sure of the size of the hex broach on the R motor, but this is the closest size nut you can buy for the variety of pulley's I've got. Also, you might consider getting 2 nuts and welding them side by side if your pulley is anything like the B18C1 (the broach is deep in the pulley rather than right on the outside like the D16Z6 (etc.), B16A, B18A.
-TJ
-TJ
#16
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (CR-X)
Yeah....I made it. Sears was not involved in the inspiration, creation or design. If they make one similar, they ripped it off from me
It's a 33mm nut and an 18" long piece of 2" strap, 3/16" thick. The 33mm nut is large enough in the center (33mm for those of you not fastener savvy) for a 1/2" impact socket to fit through.
It works on 92+ D series crank pulley's and B series pulleys where the hex braoch is on the outer surface. I've got another nut to weld along side the one on there so that it will work with a B18C pulley (deep broach).
I've made a couple of other tools for holding the old D series pulleys with the holes around the outside too.
If you've got a lift, you can try to hold it with one hand while breaking the bolt loose with a 1/2" breaker bar. (I've never had to use an impact - didn't get a compressor until recently). It works better if the car is on jackstands - you can just let the handle rest on the floor and put all your effort into loosening the bolt.
It's a 33mm nut and an 18" long piece of 2" strap, 3/16" thick. The 33mm nut is large enough in the center (33mm for those of you not fastener savvy) for a 1/2" impact socket to fit through.
It works on 92+ D series crank pulley's and B series pulleys where the hex braoch is on the outer surface. I've got another nut to weld along side the one on there so that it will work with a B18C pulley (deep broach).
I've made a couple of other tools for holding the old D series pulleys with the holes around the outside too.
If you've got a lift, you can try to hold it with one hand while breaking the bolt loose with a 1/2" breaker bar. (I've never had to use an impact - didn't get a compressor until recently). It works better if the car is on jackstands - you can just let the handle rest on the floor and put all your effort into loosening the bolt.
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (CR-X)
I bought the moroso crankshaft pulley remover from summit racing for $70. tried impact guns and all the above with no luck before buying. I used the pulley remover with a jackstand to get it past the wheel well and a breaker bar to break it loose
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (94civicx)
Hey -TJ, can u get that picture of your tool to load up; I'd really like to see it but I'm just getting this red x where the picture's supposed to be. Thanks.
#20
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (ThePunk)
moroso tool, used it loved it. worth every penny of 70 bux
#21
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (3rdGteg)
Hey -TJ, can u get that picture of your tool to load up; I'd really like to see it but I'm just getting this red x where the picture's supposed to be. Thanks.
Total cost, less than $5
[Modified by -TJ, 7:27 AM 2/28/2002]
[Modified by -TJ, 7:29 AM 2/28/2002]
#23
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt (Crazydave)
We sell a fabricated crankbolt wrench similar to that in TJ's photo for $48.50 plus shipping
[Modified by hensley, 3:05 PM 2/28/2002]
[Modified by hensley, 3:05 PM 2/28/2002]
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