Ok, I am currently laying out my future build hopefully to be done by next summer. One of the things I have searched up is about balancing the crank.

It seems I have about 50% who say to balance, and 50% who say to not rebalance.

Could'nt find any real information to back up anyones opinion on it. But it seemed that alot of people say that honda's cranks are balanced from the factory so good, that it is not even worth getting your crank balanced unless it was damaged. Which if so, why not just get another crank.
I also read that most machine shops can't even get the cranks balanced as good as Honda does from the factory, that Honda's cranks are balanced so well compared to most manufactures. So the machine shop may be able to produce quality balances on cranks from various manufactures, but Honda is on its own level as far as this matter?

Just looking for some good information on it, I am going to keep reading up on it. I know its only about what, $100 or something, but if they can't even balance as good as Honda factory, why let them touch a undamaged crank?

I'm looking to do as much work as possible myself, just for the feeling of accomplishment and to just prove that I can do it.

I'm still deciding on the final outcome of the finished setup, but I have 2 LS longblocks, and a JDM b16a longblock & tranny. I will be running a LS/Vtec Turbo setup. I will be selling my mitsubishi soon, which could net me about 3-5k pocket cash to help fund the project. I'm sure in the future you all may come accross my project thread. I can't wait to get started, I'm just looking to research and absorb as much information as possible.

Thanks in advance for any input, I'm off to search the net to learn whatever I can on this for now, then onto being enlightened on my next curiosity I come across

 

Im not sure but I think some ppl use the gsr crank bc it revs higher(correct me if im wrong).....Besides what you can see there are also a few differences you can't see. VTEC engines are a result of a meticulous assembly process. Both the crankshafts and the connecting rods are zero balanced, allowing for worry-free revs in excess of 8000 rpm. You can't say that about a non-VTEC Honda engine. VTEC rod bolts are also beefier, boasting 1mm-larger diameters as opposed to the LS's dinky 8mm bolts. Both of these issues prove to be the major weak links of the LS engine, yet can be remedied providing your willingness to open the bottom end.


And heres a list of most of the parts you'll need for the LS Vtec

DOHC VTEC B-series cylinder head complete with valve cover, intake manifold, VTEC solenoid assembly and internals

VTEC ECU

VTEC B-series distributor

'90-'01 Integra LS head gasket

'94-'01 Integra GS-R head bolts (also Type R, del Sol DOHC VTEC and Civic Si)

'94-'01 Integra GS-R water pump (also Type R, del Sol DOHC VTEC and Civic Si)

'94-'01 Integra GS-R timing belt (also Type R)

'94-'01 Integra GS-R knock sensor (also Type R, del Sol DOHC VTEC and Civic Si)

-4 steel braided hose with female ends, 22 inches in length

1/8-inch NPT female to 1/8-inch NPT female to 1/8-inch BSPT male on run pipe tee

1/8-inch NPT male to -4 male straight adaptor

3/8-inch NPT male to -4 male straight adaptor

1/8-inch internal pipe plug

1/8-inch NPT pipe tap

3/8-inch NPT pipe tap

14mm drill bit

10.9mm drill bit

12mmx1.25mm tap

 

thanks.

I was kinda unsure with the information that I found. I still havent found too much though, just getting off work, so I'm going to do more research.

 

At shops that I had access to a balancer I would spin it up and do the very minor corrections that it might need.But I would not pay to have it balanced for my own engine.They are balanced very close from the factory.

 

I have personally had many Honda cranks balanced. Every time one comes back there are always drills into the weights indicating that it needed to get balanced. I'm pretty sure my machinist balances them within .5 grams of tolerance. .5 grams might be a tighter spec than Honda's balancing spec and that might be the reason why they always come out with drill holes, or they might just be out of spec. Either way i think its better to be safe than sorry. Also, if you do plan on balancing it, I would also reccomend getting your crank pulley, flywheel, pistons and rods balanced along with the crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, if you do plan on balancing it, I would also reccomend getting your crank pulley, flywheel, pistons and rods balanced along with the crank. </TD></TR></TABLE>

+1.

the crank may be balanced, but i doubt Honda balances the entire assembly. and if you're doing a build, you're probably mixing new parts in or mixing old parts between motors. so there you should have the entire mess balanced, just like sal said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jhota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">+1.

the crank may be balanced, but i doubt Honda balances the entire assembly. and if you're doing a build, you're probably mixing new parts in or mixing old parts between motors. so there you should have the entire mess balanced, just like sal said.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

So is it more of a factor of everything combined, which, just because my crank may be balanced very well from the factory, does not mean that my aftermarket rods, pistons and flywheel really may be compatable with cranks balance?
Since the weights were changed on the tranny side of the crank to the #1 cylinder?

Also how does the crank pulley get balanced? I read up on a article about shock, and the real job of the 'crank pulley', which was interesting, was from TOO, the old one or something I found on google.

Thanks for the input, I really enjoy learning more each day. Right now my car is all I have in life, and want to at least not screw up what I got

 

we have a hines digital balancer. we've found honda cranks are the best oem balanced cranks out there. they are consistantly within 1 1/2 grams of balanced. eagle aftermarket i'v seen up to 7 grams. most domestic v-8's are lucky to be within 15 grams. i guess what i'm saying the cranks are usually fine unless you plan to see some rpm, although, a well balanced engine will run better, free up horsepower, and will be easier on your bearings and parts. we are able to get that within 1/2 gram of balance at 3 inches. if it will see more then oe rpm, i would balance it. the more rpm has a multiplying factor on out of balance.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HackeN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is it more of a factor of everything combined, which, just because my crank may be balanced very well from the factory, does not mean that my aftermarket rods, pistons and flywheel really may be compatable with cranks balance?
Since the weights were changed on the tranny side of the crank to the #1 cylinder?
P</TD></TR></TABLE>

not exactly, you balance the crank alone first and get it to zero balance, then you bolt the flywheel on and bring it to zero. now the flywheel is balanced itself.

i can't stress enough to balance your pressure plate. they are never within 5 grams and i have seen them over 15 grams. my opinion, it is money well spent to balance your flywheel and pressure plate at least.

bob

 

When you go to get your rotating asembly balanced do you just brign the parts or the block??

 

Just the parts.

 

I was told the clutch/pressure place or what not is not able to get balanced? Which I never understood..

Thanks for the replies

 

the clutch you can't, it centers on the on the transmision input shaft. the pressure plate you bolt up to the flywheel after the flywheel is zero. then you can bring the pressure plate to zero. done hundreds of them.

bob

 

ah yeah your right, they take them 10 mm socket 12 point bolts or something and the flywheel take the 17mm socket 12 points i think.