could someone explain the golden eagle process to me?
I just started to read about resleeving the block, and I was wondering what do I need done on my block if I have a b18c and I want to go to about 2.0L?
Im guessing, resleeving, custom pistons, rods, bore and hone (what exactly does this do?) and apr head studs + oversize gasket. Im I missing anything.
also, how do I get the head to match the new bore size?
How much will all this come out to be?
is this more reliable than going crvtec?
sorry for all the questions, still gathering info about the procedures.
Im guessing, resleeving, custom pistons, rods, bore and hone (what exactly does this do?) and apr head studs + oversize gasket. Im I missing anything.
also, how do I get the head to match the new bore size?
How much will all this come out to be?
is this more reliable than going crvtec?
sorry for all the questions, still gathering info about the procedures.
Im getting my block done right now by Golden Eagle. It is 750 for the sleeving plus shipping which is a very good price. All the things you mentioned would be a good idea. Obviously you will need new pistons, but you could go with stock rods, which I would not do because you already have the block torn apart. ARP head studs are a must in my opinion. No, it will not necessarily be more reliable than a crvtec. It just depends on the build. Golden Eagle could build you the strongest block ever but if it is assembled wrong it will blow up anyway. It is all in who builds it. Also you dont NEED to get the head matched, Im not and Im going with an 86mm bore. Do a little research before you commit to anything because all these little things really add up, I speak from experience.
oh also, whats this o-ring everyone speaks of?
what bore do I need to achieve 2.0L?
what is bore and hone?
and will I have detonation problems if I dont match the head w/ the bore?
and what do you mean "depends on who builds it?" wouldnt golden eagle just assemble the rods/pistons to the crank? And ill just need to slap the head and tranny on?
again, sorry if questions seem alittle ignorant, Ive done many searches, didnt help much.
[Modified by SilverCIVIC96, 10:08 PM 8/16/2002]
[Modified by SilverCIVIC96, 10:11 PM 8/16/2002]
what bore do I need to achieve 2.0L?
what is bore and hone?
and will I have detonation problems if I dont match the head w/ the bore?
and what do you mean "depends on who builds it?" wouldnt golden eagle just assemble the rods/pistons to the crank? And ill just need to slap the head and tranny on?
again, sorry if questions seem alittle ignorant, Ive done many searches, didnt help much.
[Modified by SilverCIVIC96, 10:08 PM 8/16/2002]
[Modified by SilverCIVIC96, 10:11 PM 8/16/2002]
There is an extra charge for full assembly. Bore and hone means matching the pistons to each cylinder, basically. You wont have detonation problems if it is tuned right. Go to c-speedracing.com and go to how to's and there is a calculator on there. It'll tell you how big a bore you must go.
o-rings are basically copper crush washers that go on the top of the cylinder and seal them, like a head gasket. They are supposed to be stronger but you have to machine for this too.
Detonation can occur from hot spots. The edge of the cylinder bore on the head will be smaller. Since it is a sharp transition to the mating surface it can lead to detonation. If you smooth the edges, it probably wont work so well on an 81mm bore.
The quality of the engine build is important for its reliability. If it just gets thrown together by someone who heard about it once and saw it in a cartoon, its not gonna be pretty. A person with experience has the right tools and knowledge to assemble it right. There is additional charge for assembly.
You should get everything balanced before its assembled.
Detonation can occur from hot spots. The edge of the cylinder bore on the head will be smaller. Since it is a sharp transition to the mating surface it can lead to detonation. If you smooth the edges, it probably wont work so well on an 81mm bore.
The quality of the engine build is important for its reliability. If it just gets thrown together by someone who heard about it once and saw it in a cartoon, its not gonna be pretty. A person with experience has the right tools and knowledge to assemble it right. There is additional charge for assembly.
You should get everything balanced before its assembled.
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I am not sure if they do any assembly.......when I joined a group buy for GE, I sent them my bare block and new pistons and they put in new sleeves and matched (bored and honed) each piston to a specific cylinder. EXCELLENT work!!!!!!!!!
We do assembly and full machining here at Golden Eagle Mfg. If you want prices, please e-mail me at vince@goldeneaglemfg.com and I can give you all the bottom end prices you will need. Thanks.
This is a pic of my GR sleeves block with O-ring installed, it's pretty easy to do the O-ring, it took me 10 minutes to do all four
to bore is basically to make a new diameter of your cylinder walls to match the diameter of the pistons. Since GE makes a fresh sleeves, you'll need to have it bore out, even if you;re going back to stock bore...
to hone is to makes an angle cut at your cylinder walls to make sure that oil will not run straight down on the cylinder walls. Honda recommend Cross hatch honed walls, 60 deg cut is ideal, less than that, oil will run down too quickly....bigger than that, oil will build up and will not run down the walls fast enough, although there are a lot of forgiveness in the numbers..use your common sense..
GE will do a full service including sleeving the block, bore, honed, blance all internals and assemble all internals for you...
If you decided to do it by yourself, take your time, learn to be patient and make sure you have helms ready and TRIPLE CHEKCED YOU TORQUE ON EVERYTHING>
personally, I can spend 2 days just to verified all bearing clearance on main and rods are perfect, before I put the whole thing together...
IF you have to ask, then DON"T think about it, let a pro do it...it;s not worth the downtime (or double downtime) and the money to start all over again....
allthough it would be a great lesson...
HTH
stan
PS: if you have any question, just ask Vince, very helpful and knowledgeable....
to bore is basically to make a new diameter of your cylinder walls to match the diameter of the pistons. Since GE makes a fresh sleeves, you'll need to have it bore out, even if you;re going back to stock bore...
to hone is to makes an angle cut at your cylinder walls to make sure that oil will not run straight down on the cylinder walls. Honda recommend Cross hatch honed walls, 60 deg cut is ideal, less than that, oil will run down too quickly....bigger than that, oil will build up and will not run down the walls fast enough, although there are a lot of forgiveness in the numbers..use your common sense..
GE will do a full service including sleeving the block, bore, honed, blance all internals and assemble all internals for you...
If you decided to do it by yourself, take your time, learn to be patient and make sure you have helms ready and TRIPLE CHEKCED YOU TORQUE ON EVERYTHING>
personally, I can spend 2 days just to verified all bearing clearance on main and rods are perfect, before I put the whole thing together...
IF you have to ask, then DON"T think about it, let a pro do it...it;s not worth the downtime (or double downtime) and the money to start all over again....
allthough it would be a great lesson...
HTH
stan
PS: if you have any question, just ask Vince, very helpful and knowledgeable....
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