gupta_p

Earlier yesterday, I was driving to school, when all of a sudden the check engine light came on, and the car started jerking around a lot. At high rpms, the car wouldn't jerk around any more, but i'd still have to get to the high rpms to have a clean ride.

I came home afterwards, and put the pin to the ECU .. and I extracted 2 codes .. 9 and 15.

Code 9 relates to a Faulty CYP Sensor (cylinder position), which I later tested using an ohmmeter, and I found it to be working. (It's giving me a resistance of 377 ohms, which Is supposed to mean it's working?)

The Code 15 is somewaht hard to tes t.. because I don't have a helms manual, I can't remove the rotor, to actually get into the distributor to test the ignition coil and stuff. I'm not sure how to fix this .. any information on how to get to the coil would be greatly appreciated.

Anyhow, I also noticed that my PCV hose had a hole on the underside of it .. which should cause problems with idling and stuff.. almost to the point of stalling. I temporarily fixed it with ducktape ... and then I went out for a test a few minutes ago.

I was driving, and my car was working magicalllyyy! Then, I came to a turning signal probably about 5 minutes from my house .. car stalled (35 mph). I made my u-turn, and let off the clutch to simulate a push start, and the engine started again, and I drove. I came to another stop liught .. stalled (25 mph). Then I put my toes on the brake, and my heel on the accelerator ... and I didn't let the car die again.

I came home... I looked at stuff, replaced the ducktape ... and went off again. This time, the stalling kept happening, but now I've got a weird problem. I can't go past 20 mph in 1st gear, and I can't go past 40 mph in 2nd gear (without the car jerking around really horribly like it was doing in my first post).

I got home, and I took a look at my check engine light (which came on, and I did clear the ECU before I left the second time) ..

Now I have a Code 4... in addition to my Code 9 and Code 15. The Code 4 is the CKP sensor ..

but I can't believe that's right .. I checked all the sensors, and they were all giving me the right resistances .. so theoretically they were supposed to be working?

I'm not sure what's wrong with my car, and I can't figure out how to remove the rotor from the distributor (damn haynes manual, I hope it ignites), so that I can test my ignition coil.


I know this is long, but ppleeasseee, help! I'm soo lost now.

gupta_p

oh yah, I also drive a 1992 Honda Civic Hatchback CX

altoid

sounds like your dizzy and all periphrials thereof are fubar. i'd suggest trying out a good dizzy and see if it clears up.

gupta_p

but the thing is .. I tested my sensors .. they seem to be working?

If the sensors are working .. mebbe it's the ignition coil? How do I get to my ignition coil? I can remove the distributor cap .. but then I can't remove the yellow brown plastic "subcovering" or the rotor stuff. so I can't even test my ignition coil.


What about my PCV problem? There's a hole in the tubing .. would that cause any of the problems I've expaleind?


I'm pretty much broke (heh, i'm 17 and college is gonna cost money), I need to try to save AASSSS much money as possible.

BTW, thanks for your reply altoid!

altoid

just because its got resistance doesn't mean its the right resistance, uunless you're sure those resistances are within spec i'd try a dizzy thats not broken, from a friend or something.

not sure about the pcv.


[Modified by altoid, 7:05 PM 3/23/2003]

gupta_p

I wish I had a friend that owns a civic/or anything in the whole EG body line Stupid domestic fans.

I got resistance in the right levels .. ~370 for all 3 sensors. (TDC, CKP, and CYP)

What else coudl be causing the problems I'm explaining? What about the weird thing where my car only becomes jerky at certain rpm levels (well, speeds in a gear correspond directly with rpm levels in that gear). I wish I had a tach on my Civic CX.. lol, or I'd spit out an rpm number.

What are some symptons associated with a failing ignition coil? Or igniter even ...

(thanks again altoid! hehe)

Chiovnidca

Is the inside of the distributor covered with a layer of brown dust?

gupta_p

haha, no! That'd be bad if it was The inner plastic is just brownish black in color.

b19coupe

Just because the resistance of the sensors is within specs, it does not mean that they are o.k. I have had to replace many distributors that tested "good". Cars ran great with new ones.

gupta_p

How can I tell if those sensors are working? Is there somethign I shoudl notice if they're not working perfectly?


Also, what are some symptons of a failing ignition coil? (or igniter)

my car is still sitting sadly in my driveway =\

b19coupe

If there are problems with the sensors in the distributor, you will usually see codes #4, #8, or #9. One, two, or all. A failing igniter will cause the car to stall and not restart. Sometimes the car will not start at all. Other times the car will start, die when warm, and restart once the igniter cools off.

gupta_p

Intersting ...


I drove for around .. 5-10 minutes, and then my car stalled randomily on the road, and I was able to get it to start again, but the stalling kept happening.

Code 4 randomily started after I drove this past time, and 9 and 15 have been happening since friday.

Is it possible that my Igniter/Ignition Coils are bad?

BTW.. I statred my car this evening, around 60 degrees outside, and I noticed a couple things. It took a long time to crank up, and when it actually started .. it ran really rouch, until my check engine light came on, and the idle smoothed out.

When I tried to rev the engine, it doesn't go to redline any more, and when it does hit it's "new max" it's really weird. It doesn't bounce really fast like a normal redline, it slowly revs up, and then the rpm drops down, etc. It's very weird.


[Modified by gupta_p, 3:52 AM 3/25/2003]