Code 23 on LSVTEC?
I'm throwing code 23 (knock sensor) on my LS/VTEC motor. I'm running OBD0 with PW0 ecu.
From my understanding, LS blocks do not have a knock senor. What can cause this and how can I fix it?
From my understanding, LS blocks do not have a knock senor. What can cause this and how can I fix it?
You can add a knock sensor to the motor. That`s what I would recommend.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHRIS 1.8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm throwing code 23 (knock sensor) on my LS/VTEC motor. I'm running OBD0 with PW0 ecu.
From my understanding, LS blocks do not have a knock senor. What can cause this and how can I fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you can trade your PW0 ecu for a PR3 ecu, I can reprogram a PR3 to have a disabled KS amongst other sensors...
From my understanding, LS blocks do not have a knock senor. What can cause this and how can I fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you can trade your PW0 ecu for a PR3 ecu, I can reprogram a PR3 to have a disabled KS amongst other sensors...
I will see if I can find someone that will actually trade a PW0 for a PR3 first. I plan on converting over to OBDI anyways so that would be kind of a waste of money.
Do you recommend staying OBD0 or converting to OBDI? I don't really get whats the advantages of them.
Do you recommend staying OBD0 or converting to OBDI? I don't really get whats the advantages of them.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHRIS 1.8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will see if I can find someone that will actually trade a PW0 for a PR3 first. I plan on converting over to OBDI anyways so that would be kind of a waste of money.
Do you recommend staying OBD0 or converting to OBDI? I don't really get whats the advantages of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OBD1 is just plain better electronics, mainly distributor & ecu.
A good comparo-example would be how OBD0 ignitor/coils go bad frequently vs. OBD1 ignitor/coils which almost rarely-ever go bad.
Do you recommend staying OBD0 or converting to OBDI? I don't really get whats the advantages of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OBD1 is just plain better electronics, mainly distributor & ecu.
A good comparo-example would be how OBD0 ignitor/coils go bad frequently vs. OBD1 ignitor/coils which almost rarely-ever go bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A good comparo-example would be how OBD0 ignitor/coils go bad frequently vs. OBD1 ignitor/coils which almost rarely-ever go bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OBD1 ignitor/coils is just as crappy as OBD0. If that's the only advantage, MSD will be a lot cheaper and better.
Jay Kim
A good comparo-example would be how OBD0 ignitor/coils go bad frequently vs. OBD1 ignitor/coils which almost rarely-ever go bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OBD1 ignitor/coils is just as crappy as OBD0. If that's the only advantage, MSD will be a lot cheaper and better.
Jay Kim
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dentilicious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OBD1 ignitor/coils is just as crappy as OBD0.
Jay Kim</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, that's debateable.
OBD1 ignitor/coils is just as crappy as OBD0.
Jay Kim</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, that's debateable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">debateable</TD></TR></TABLE>
The word debateable is hardly worth all the trouble and the cost of converting to OBD1. With that money you could easily get Hondata + MSD ignition. I would choose the latter anytime, anyday.
Jay Kim
The word debateable is hardly worth all the trouble and the cost of converting to OBD1. With that money you could easily get Hondata + MSD ignition. I would choose the latter anytime, anyday.
Jay Kim
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From: Where thieves get shot in the face,, texas, usa
another option is to find a suitable location on the engine that has a hole with threads.And find an appropiately sized bolt that will screw into it. Then have a 12x1.25 nut welded to itthen simply bolt it to the engine then screw in the knock sensor add the wire to the ecu and KS and presto. The best place for it would be under the intake manifold or somewhere in the back af the motor for a clean look.
Billy
Billy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dentilicious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The word debateable is hardly worth all the trouble and the cost of converting to OBD1. With that money you could easily get Hondata + MSD ignition. I would choose the latter anytime, anyday.
Jay Kim</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not quite sure but isn't hondata only work really well w/ obd1?
The word debateable is hardly worth all the trouble and the cost of converting to OBD1. With that money you could easily get Hondata + MSD ignition. I would choose the latter anytime, anyday.
Jay Kim</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not quite sure but isn't hondata only work really well w/ obd1?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bruceleeroy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u are palnning on converting then get a chipped p28..and your code should go away..they dont read knock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
go with the p28, i have a ls/vtec and chipped p28 and dont have a knock sensor...dont have any codes either
</TD></TR></TABLE>go with the p28, i have a ls/vtec and chipped p28 and dont have a knock sensor...dont have any codes either
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