cleaning engine bay
what are the steps in cleaning up my engine bay? Cover up the distributor so it doesn't get wet...then spray simple green all over the engine....then hose it down? Do i have them correct?
How dirty is it now? Some people advise to warm your engine, but so you can still touch it, but I feel that makes everything evaporate too fast in there. I prefer to do it on a cold engine, as cold as you can get it. This is what I do:
1. Cover items I don't want to get wet...distributor, alternator, fuse box, tape around sparkplug holes in valve cover, tape around brake fluid resovoir cap, make sure all caps for fluids are tight.
2. I wet down the engine in hopes that the simple green will flow to areas I can't directly spray it.
3. spray simple green all over the place.
4. After letting the simple green soak, if this is your first time, you might want to rinse the engine bay down because some major curd could be washed away. Depending on the level of perfection you want, you may want to spray the engine bay with simple green again, let it soak, then agitate areas where dirt and grime may still exist.
5. Once you are satisfied, remove your covers on the engine parts you wanted to keep water out of and dry some of the stuff you can easily. You can then start the engine to finish drying it. Once you see your clean, dry engine, you might want to dress it with Armor All or some other protectant. Some people spray down the entire engine bay with Armor All, some selectivly apply it to plastic and rubber parts. I am still working on getting mine clean enough where I think it deserves to be dressed. I learn something and find a new area to clean every time.
I use tape and aluminum foil to cover things I don't want wet, depending on the area. The steps you proposed sound pretty good and in all honesty would work just fine. I just thought I'd give you a few other things to think about, take it or leave it.
I'm tired, so ask away if things were unclear. I'll try to get back in the morning.
1. Cover items I don't want to get wet...distributor, alternator, fuse box, tape around sparkplug holes in valve cover, tape around brake fluid resovoir cap, make sure all caps for fluids are tight.
2. I wet down the engine in hopes that the simple green will flow to areas I can't directly spray it.
3. spray simple green all over the place.
4. After letting the simple green soak, if this is your first time, you might want to rinse the engine bay down because some major curd could be washed away. Depending on the level of perfection you want, you may want to spray the engine bay with simple green again, let it soak, then agitate areas where dirt and grime may still exist.
5. Once you are satisfied, remove your covers on the engine parts you wanted to keep water out of and dry some of the stuff you can easily. You can then start the engine to finish drying it. Once you see your clean, dry engine, you might want to dress it with Armor All or some other protectant. Some people spray down the entire engine bay with Armor All, some selectivly apply it to plastic and rubber parts. I am still working on getting mine clean enough where I think it deserves to be dressed. I learn something and find a new area to clean every time.
I use tape and aluminum foil to cover things I don't want wet, depending on the area. The steps you proposed sound pretty good and in all honesty would work just fine. I just thought I'd give you a few other things to think about, take it or leave it.
I'm tired, so ask away if things were unclear. I'll try to get back in the morning.
good god man.
all real enging bay cleaners know that you must remove all
exteraneous items like, fuse boxes, brakets, reserviors...
the motor...
best time to clean the engine bay is inbetween swaps
as far as I am concerned, brake clean is the best method for the
metal items
compressed air to remove dirt from hard
spots. this is most effective, clean and fast so you dont have to futz.
a 2" painter's brush works nicely too... but thats only if you dont
have compressed air.
simple green on paint after that works nicely.
all real enging bay cleaners know that you must remove all
exteraneous items like, fuse boxes, brakets, reserviors...
the motor...
best time to clean the engine bay is inbetween swaps

as far as I am concerned, brake clean is the best method for the
metal items
compressed air to remove dirt from hardspots. this is most effective, clean and fast so you dont have to futz.
a 2" painter's brush works nicely too... but thats only if you dont
have compressed air.
simple green on paint after that works nicely.
thanx a lot guys
Thats very helpful. Do you guys think its absolutely necessary to cover the spark plug holes..etc..? I thought that it was just the distributor that needed covered.
Thats very helpful. Do you guys think its absolutely necessary to cover the spark plug holes..etc..? I thought that it was just the distributor that needed covered.
Simple Green never used it, I use Zep50 They use it to detail cars at work. under the hood and crap. I never covered anything on my GSR and didnt ever have any problems. but i do cover it some stuff on my girls rsx when i clean it. those are some good tips.
Hey guys I have a 2700 PSI power washer. It has 5 different nozzles. Is it OK to use my powerwasher to clean my engine bay? I'd use the 2nd to weakeset nozzle. It's pretty strong but not too strong. Is it bad to use a power washer for this? Should I just be rinsing with a hose, letting watter just fall everywhere?
EDIT - How long should I let the Simple Green sit for?
Thanks
EDIT - How long should I let the Simple Green sit for?
Thanks
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just be careful with that power washer. A friend of mine used a power washer and only realized after it was too late that it was stripping away his paint. It was only a spot the size of a quarter, but sucks none the less. Just make sure you use one of those lesser nozzles, and test on an inconspicuous area.
Make sure you use autmotive simple green. regular simple green is corrosive to aluminum (intake manifold, head, aftermarket strut tower bar, pulleys, etc).
Thanks guys! About that guys armorall foam trick. Should I spray it everywhere? What should I do with it? Should I wipe it down afterwards or drive the car for 30min as he says? Here's the link to anyone that hasn't seen it:
http://www.nsxhelp.com/amnsxli...k.htm
Thanks
http://www.nsxhelp.com/amnsxli...k.htm
Thanks
Mac8008, I've only done it twice and some occasional spot cleaning in the year that I've had the car. I know how to do it more than I actually do. There was this terribly awful sticky, crusty dressing of some sort that some "detailer" used on the engine before I got it that I'm still working on cleaning off with each wash before I dress it.
Martini: using the automotive simple green is a good idea, but I use the regular stuff on mine and haven't noticed any adverse effects to this point* (*to this point doesn't mean much coming from me)
Goldfingiz, the pressure washer might be helpful for painted areas and places where the high-pressure water won't seep/be forced into electronic areas. It can be helpful, but be careful and don't use it everywhere.
SOHC_MShue, covering the spark plug holes is not absolutely necessary. It was advice that was given to me that I thought I'd pass on...I believe the reason for keeping the water out is not wanting it to rust your spark plugs and wires. The plug wires have seals on them anyway, so you are probably pretty safe...I've washed the engine without covering those before.
Regarding Armor All being flamable, there is supposedly a new forumla of their "Original" out which is a water based silicon emulsion if I recall correctly. I have some older "Low Gloss" Armor All which is indeed a water based silicon emulsion, but is no longer sold because they "didn't sell it in the volumes necessary." Keeping flamable dressings out of your engine bay is probably a good idea. Lexol Vinylex is probably another good product that can be found locally (one that I haven't used but have read about).
The paint brush idea is a good one.
If you really get into this detailing stuff, hit http://www.autopia.org and feel free to post in the Autopia University.
Martini: using the automotive simple green is a good idea, but I use the regular stuff on mine and haven't noticed any adverse effects to this point* (*to this point doesn't mean much coming from me)
Goldfingiz, the pressure washer might be helpful for painted areas and places where the high-pressure water won't seep/be forced into electronic areas. It can be helpful, but be careful and don't use it everywhere.
SOHC_MShue, covering the spark plug holes is not absolutely necessary. It was advice that was given to me that I thought I'd pass on...I believe the reason for keeping the water out is not wanting it to rust your spark plugs and wires. The plug wires have seals on them anyway, so you are probably pretty safe...I've washed the engine without covering those before.
Regarding Armor All being flamable, there is supposedly a new forumla of their "Original" out which is a water based silicon emulsion if I recall correctly. I have some older "Low Gloss" Armor All which is indeed a water based silicon emulsion, but is no longer sold because they "didn't sell it in the volumes necessary." Keeping flamable dressings out of your engine bay is probably a good idea. Lexol Vinylex is probably another good product that can be found locally (one that I haven't used but have read about).
The paint brush idea is a good one.
If you really get into this detailing stuff, hit http://www.autopia.org and feel free to post in the Autopia University.
I cover up the distributor and sparkplugs wires, give it a good rinse dry it up with a towel. Then i use Black magic tire foam same stuff for the tires, spray it around the whole engine let it sit for a couple of seconds and wipe of the excess foam. It looks brnd new...if u keep up with cleanin ur engine itll be easier on you...I clean mine like twice a month and my girls car like once a month...haha
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