evertime i sqeeze my check engine light comes on and it starts to jump timing, ill reset the computer by shutting the car off and restarting it and then it runs fine, but when i drive normal it will sputter like its jumping timing, this all started when set the timing at 13 degrees on a 75 shot.

 

What car is it on and what are your other mods>

Blaze

 

you will need to check the code first

 

just all the basic bolt ons, my friend was saying it might be the idle control valve because it had to be modified when running my throttle body, something like it would throw a code if the adjustment wasnt made.

 

What code does it have stored?

 

do you mean you reset the ECU? i dont think you can reset the ECU just by turning off the car and turning it back on. you could take out the clock/radio fuse, pretty sure its 7.5 on the h22a4. take it out for about 10 seconds and stick it back in. make sure you have the autotheft (for the radio) code

 

BTW, what code is it throwing?

 

cant get it to throw a code, it hasnt done it lately, just when i squeeze three gears, only happened at the track when i really got on it, after the run i would notice the check engine light on and it running really shitty like i would flow it and it would have like 20 % power then it would come back like inconstantly, so i just shut the car off and then restarted it and the check engine light would go away, i just want to know what is the reason why its coming on? i tried to get it to do it again but it wouldnt, how would i check the code with it on? dont i have to shut the car off then turn it to the on postion, right?

 

since your screename is ek gsr. im gonna go with an obd2 gsr. now it is probably coming on for like maybe one of 1000 different reasons. if it is only after squeezing it could be because it ran really rich or it senced knock or sompin like that. but to be really sure you need to get the code. so either you run the nos and then get a paper clip and do it your self or you go down to peformance shop and have them put it on a scan tool. so either way you need the code before anyone can really help. to get the code yourself http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php

 

Did you say you have 13 degress timing, Well I dont know what the timing is on a integra but it could be that your running lean, Your computer is doing you justice by limping home. I would take Master Oranges advice on resetting the code, But first find out for sure what the Code is....

 

OK. I cant resist. Do any of you remember that Emily Latella skit that Gilda Radner used to do on SNL?

What?... Your check engine light comes on after sneezing? thats impossible

Run the code. That should tell you what sensor is broken or out of range.

Mike

 

i guess maybe you're running an OBD2 motor. but i know that on the OBD1 setups the ECU will store the code til erased by pulling out the correct fuses, normally the Backup and ECU fuses under the hood. so if you squeezed and the light came on, then you turned off the car and started it back up to get the CEL to disappear, and haven't reset the ECU by pulling the fuses, then the code will still be in the memory of the ECU. so then you can go jump the connector with a paper clip, then turn the key 2 clicks and it'll show you the codes still in the memory of the ECU even though they may not have popped up recently.

my OBD1 ECU holds the codes til i reset the it by pulling the fuses. i don't know if the OBD2 ECU's work the same way cause i've never worked with OBD2 stuff.

as for the reason the CEL comes on when squeezing, it could be the Knock Sensor or the O2 Sensor as was already mentioned earlier. the injection could be rich or lean, or the ignition timing could be off resulting in minor detonation which will set the KS off possibly. or maybe it's something else.

what type of N2O system is it? dry, wet, DP? what kind of fuel components do you have? you said that the ignition timing is at 13 degrees BTDC?
that should be fine for a 75 shot injection.

 

its a wet sytem, and my car is converted to obd-1, how do i check the code? all i have is a fuel pressure regulator and it was dyno tuned at 52 psi( need injectors ) the reason the fuel pressure is so high is because of the aem type r cai, str 70mm tb, and skunk 2 manifold with the ctr intake cam. like i said need injectors, i think right now the fuel pressure is at 51 when it was tuned at 52. Would 1 psi difference make it run lean? and also now the check engine light is coming on in the top of third all motor i put the timing back to 18 degrees but when im driving normal it will bog sometimes at low rpms escpecially in fourth and fifth between like 2000 and 3000. sometimes it will sputter like im flooring it and it wont go then it will kick and drive normal. i dont know how to check the code, ive seen it been done on my car but i dont recall how to do it, if what you said is true i think the codes from squeezing and today should still be on there, i wouldnt be supprised is it is a knock sensor or o2 sensor( need a chipped p28 )

 

you ADVANCED your timing 13 degrees?!

 

you don't NEED injectors with a wet system, unless the motor itself (off the bottle) needs the extra fuel. with a wet/direct port system the fuel is provided via the fuel solenoid and upgraded fuel pump, so the injectors don't need to spray any more fuel than normal. but if the motor is very lean when running N/A then injectors would be a good idea, though you want to have the right ECU/ECU program to operate them. just a chipped P28 can do fine with the stock injectors or a set of higher flowing OEM injectors from another Honda motor like the Accord or Prelude.

checking the ECU for codes is pretty simple. just jump the 2 wire "service connector" under the dash, above the ECU on the passenger side kickpanel. when you jump it, turn the key 2 clicks until the dash lights are lite. then the CEL on the dash will flash telling you what the code is. long=10 and short=1, then add it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you ADVANCED your timing 13 degrees?!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think he was referring to his BTDC ignition timing, so instead of 16 degrees BTDC, which is stock, he had 13 degrees BTDC which is 3 degrees retarded via the distributor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think he was referring to his BTDC ignition timing, so instead of 16 degrees BTDC, which is stock, he had 13 degrees BTDC which is 3 degrees retarded via the distributor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh jesus
i was like "uhh gee i wonder why the CEL is comming on "

thank you

 

yeah im going to get some prelude injectors, i guess im putting a lot of strain on my fuel pump with it so high, i want to put the injectors on so i can run 40psi or what ever makes the most on the dyno with the injectors. i heard with my set up the p30 chipped is preffered.

 

so right now you're running a stock (unchipped) P30 and the stock 240cc injectors?

what pump did you say you were using? the OEM pump?

using a highflow pump such as the 255, or even the 190, will allow you to run lower fuel psi. such as 40-45 psi, and it will still flow plenty of fuel on or off the bottle. you may need the larger 290cc Lude injectors to tune the actual motor itself, so that it doesn't run lean while off the bottle. but they won't do much for the N2O setup since the fuel solenoid and jet supply the needed fuel for the N2O system alone. with a 255LPH pump and stock or low fuel psi setting you'll be fine, in regards to the N2O system. but if the motor is leaning out N/A then yeah the Lude injectors would be a good idea, and then try to tune it or adjust the psi accordingly.

 

yes im running the oem fuel pump (dx). just say if i was to lower my fuel pressure accordingly with the prelude injectors and its obviously going to be lower that what it is right now, would i have a problem leaning out on the bottle? or would the wet set up take care of that? i heard with wet set ups you dont even need to increase the fuel pressure oh yeah and im running a p72 computer with a skunk 2 manifold

 

oh, ok you're running a (chipped??) P72 GSR ECU right now. i though you were running the P30 chipped since you mentioned it before.

if you bump up the fuel pressure it should increase the flow at the rail and at the fuel solenoid line, so therefore the motor will see more fuel all the way around.
i highly recommend getting a 190 or 255 LPH fuel pump to handle the demands of the wet system, due to the extra volume needed to supply both the fuel solenoid (during injection) and the fuel rail/injectors at the same time. the Walbro intank pumps are inexpensive and do the job well. you can run stock fuel pressure with the Lude 290cc injectors and high flowing pump, so that you'll have plenty of fuel during N/A use and plenty of fuel during N2O injection. you don't want to lean out while on the bottle, or you could say 'goodbye' to your motor. you could use the AFC unit to help tune things (290cc injectors with pump), but the Hondata is still much better IMO.

yes, the wet and direct port systems don't need excessive fuel pressure increases, and they don't rely on the injectors to supply the needed fuel. all they needed is moderate, close to stock fuel pressure with a high flowing pump. a pump that flows a high volume at a lower psi. and the fuel solenoid supplies the needed fuel along with the N2O. then as long as the motor itself has enough fuel with it's stock 240cc injectors, you don't even need to change them to 270 or 290cc.