93 civic cx w/d16y8 with obd2 dizzy and injectors rewired and p28

yesterday she was throwing code 9-i had 2 wires mixed up on the dizzy and rewired. code 9 went away but code 4 surfaced(crank pos). any ideas? sensor not plugged in or bad dizzy?? dizzy came out of working car but was dropped lightly in between swap process.. but the car did the same **** with the cx dizzy.. so maybe the problem is outside the dizzy??

also, when the cel light comes on when being jumped-it will flash long once then nothing-then flash again long-then it throws the code 4-then repeats the long-nothing-long **** again-is this code zero or just restarting the sequence?? i am really tired of this-my ef hb with a b16 was soooo much smoother than this.. HELP

 

ttt

 

just went out and tried a whole bunch of stuff. i swappe dout the iacv with a newer one and checked all vacuum and connections. i found my pcv was not hooked up in the back of the block. but from the original 5 codes it is now throwing only 1(o2) and 22(vtec) but they are wired up correctly. any ideas?? car still idles the same(all over the place) and is driving me nuts. all of a sudden it is throwing me the vtec code-it's been throwing me the o2 code. don't know why gonna calm the nerves

 

Ok, so what is ALL the codes you are throwing?

CKP, O2 and VTEC?

I'll go ahead and help you out, just want to make sure the codes you are throwing first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so what is ALL the codes you are throwing?

CKP, O2 and VTEC?

I'll go ahead and help you out, just want to make sure the codes you are throwing first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO!! my bad-it's only throwing 1(o2) and 22(vtec)-no other codes. i am 100% sore that it is only these 2 codes

 

Ok.

For O2, have you wired it up to the shock tower at all? You have a 1 wire O2 sensor and need to convert to a 4 wire O2 sensor.

The WHT is already there and goes to the D14 pinout.

You need to add 3 wires.

The GRN wire on the 4 wire O2 sensor goes to a GRN/WHT by factory and is a sensor ground to D22, or you can splice it to the IAT (Intake Air Temp sensor)

The BLK wire is Yel/Blk which is sensor positive, which can go to A25 or the power junction harness. The power junction harness is a group full of yel/blk wires, has a removable cap, and is located near your brake/clutch master cylinder. You can wire it directly to A25 or splice it to one of these wires.

There is another BLK wire which goes to ORG/BLK at the shock tower, and that leads to A6 which is Heater control pinout.

As for VTEC wiring, if you haven't added wires, add them. If you have, check with a digital multimeter for any open circuits, and verify you have them wire matched and do the right pinout.

VTEC pressure switch - BLU/BLK wire goes to ORG/BLU at the shock tower harness and goes to D6 pinout. And there is the BLK ground which is spliced with the ESS, and leading to the Thermostat housing ground in the engine harness.

VTEC spool solenoid - This wire is GRN/WHT which changes to GRN/YEL in the engine harness, then at the shock tower harness goes to ORG/WHT leading to the A4 pinout.

If all wiring is good, then put a 12 v source to the vtec solenoid and verify it clicks.

If the VTEC solenoid doesn't click, then replace it, and make sure the screens are clean.

HTH.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok.

For O2, have you wired it up to the shock tower at all? You have a 1 wire O2 sensor and need to convert to a 4 wire O2 sensor.

The WHT is already there and goes to the D14 pinout.

You need to add 3 wires.

The GRN wire on the 4 wire O2 sensor goes to a GRN/WHT by factory and is a sensor ground to D22, or you can splice it to the IAT (Intake Air Temp sensor)

The BLK wire is Yel/Blk which is sensor positive, which can go to A25 or the power junction harness. The power junction harness is a group full of yel/blk wires, has a removable cap, and is located near your brake/clutch master cylinder. You can wire it directly to A25 or splice it to one of these wires.

There is another BLK wire which goes to ORG/BLK at the shock tower, and that leads to A6 which is Heater control pinout.

As for VTEC wiring, if you haven't added wires, add them. If you have, check with a digital multimeter for any open circuits, and verify you have them wire matched and do the right pinout.

VTEC pressure switch - BLU/BLK wire goes to ORG/BLU at the shock tower harness and goes to D6 pinout. And there is the BLK ground which is spliced with the ESS, and leading to the Thermostat housing ground in the engine harness.

VTEC spool solenoid - This wire is GRN/WHT which changes to GRN/YEL in the engine harness, then at the shock tower harness goes to ORG/WHT leading to the A4 pinout.

If all wiring is good, then put a 12 v source to the vtec solenoid and verify it clicks.

If the VTEC solenoid doesn't click, then replace it, and make sure the screens are clean.

HTH.</TD></TR></TABLE>

btw-great post

ok, everything is wired directly to the ecu. the only thing that confused me was the vtec pressure switch, i think that one is just grounded, not wired to the ecu. can you clarify that? also, what is ESS?? i will hopefully get around to checking them thoroughly tomorrow or thursday evening. also, where can i find the IAT sensor on my harness?? i have a 93 cx harness. do i need my IAT on this motor and where is the IAT on my motor(d16y8) sorry for all the noobish questions, just need help. and i really appreciate all your help POISON

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mycvc8u2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

btw-great post

ok, everything is wired directly to the ecu. the only thing that confused me was the vtec pressure switch, i think that one is just grounded, not wired to the ecu. can you clarify that? also, what is ESS?? i will hopefully get around to checking them thoroughly tomorrow or thursday evening. also, where can i find the IAT sensor on my harness?? i have a 93 cx harness. do i need my IAT on this motor and where is the IAT on my motor(d16y8) sorry for all the noobish questions, just need help. and i really appreciate all your help POISON </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's fine. by factory the pressure switch is spliced with the ESS (electronic speed sensor) and then grounded to the thermostat housing ground. I would wire it following the harness, then ground it there.

The IAT is a white sensor located on the back or the side of the intake manifold. You can splice the GRN/WHT wire from the O2 to that wire and it'll be like factory.

 

anyone?

 

You see my post ?

That will solve your problem.

 

i'm just unsure about my idle that's all. i will try all this tonight hopefully and report back. thanks as always poison

 

I've tried reading this whole post, and only once did you mention "swapping your IACV", but failed to mention, anywhere else, that there was ever a problem with your idle from the get-go.

Are you positive on the codes being thrown?

What is your idle doing thats causing concern?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've tried reading this whole post, and only once did you mention "swapping your IACV", but failed to mention, anywhere else, that there was ever a problem with your idle from the get-go.

Are you positive on the codes being thrown?

What is your idle doing thats causing concern?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i swapped my iacv, i traced all wires that i have wired(4 wire o2 conversion, vtec)
also traced all vacuums and corrected two yesterday. i have to go back and re-check vtec tonight and check for open circuits and make sure that i grounded blu/blk on vtec pressure(not sure i did).

i am 100% positive it is throwing these codes(1 o2, 22 vtec, 14 iacv-comes on and off-doesn't always throw this code).

when you start the car up it fires normally as far as sound but then the idle jumps from 1k rpm to like 3-4krpm and back and forth and everywhere in between. i dont knowif you have ever had a cam or cams but my se-r with bullfrog cams had a v8 type of idle. my current civic the one this post is about idles 10 times worse. it jumps all over the place. you have to hear it to know what i mean

i checked time with a timing light and it is within spec. i also tried flipping the back of the dizzy 180 degrees to see if my ignition timing was off but that wasn't it so i put it back to where it was.

by the way- my car won't go past 3-4k rpm and will just bog once you hit that point.

hopefully this clears things up a bit.
tonight i am going to try to test vtec for open circuits and re-wire my o2 and check my dizzy to see if it is within spec.

thanks

 

well i just changed the coolant temp sensor and checked the vtec wiring and cleared the ecu as i was doing all this several times. i also found where my missing speed sensor plug was tucked away at. my speedo no longer moves(so at least i know my dizzy wiring is ok) but it is still throwing codes 10 and 22.. car still idles like **** but my friend decided to drive it. it actually drives but he says the car feels like it is holding back. he says in first gear it is a little stubborn but once it is in second it moves better but it is still holdong back-so apparently the car does rev past 3-4k rpm!! but what is the problem?? ....
my friend who is a mechanic and has been helping me out still hasn't measured the dizzy's resistance because the book i have(chilton;'s and haynes) only show the primary resistance and secondary only. nothing else inside the dizzy. can someone post this( the other things to check and their resistance?) thanks for listening..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You see my post ?

That will solve your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you have pm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've tried reading this whole post, and only once did you mention "swapping your IACV", but failed to mention, anywhere else, that there was ever a problem with your idle from the get-go.

Are you positive on the codes being thrown?

What is your idle doing thats causing concern?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you have pm

 

Ok, for 1, if it's holding back, you are definitely in limp mode.

Codes 10 and 22 normally do not throw you all the way into limp mode. I am not 100% sure about Code 10 (which is IAT) throwing you in limp mode, but I know Code 22 doesn't. VTEC is just disabled.

You have to be throwing more codes than just those. I look thru the thread and see Code 1, code 10, code 22, etc etc, and then I see different codes coming up.

If you are throwing Code 1 for O2 at all, verify your wiring and the pinouts associated with it. If all wiring shows good with a digital multimeter and NO open circuits, then replace the O2 sensor.

As for the Vtec Oil Pressure sensor, that goes to the D6 pinout, and the ground is at the thermostat housing ground. Make sure you have no open circuits and is properly mounted, as well as in the D6 pinout. If all wiring shows good, then take off the VTEC solenoid assembly, clean the screens and such. If that does not work, then replace the oil pressure sensor.

For the IAT, this is the white sensor on your Intake manifold. Verify the wiring is good, and goes tot he proper pinouts with no open circuits, and is grounded properly.

The IAT is as follows:

Red/Yel - Goes to the D15 pinout.
Grn/Wht - Grounds to D22 and is also SPLICED with the O2 Grn/Wht wire.

I believe you have the wiring problem or we are a missing a ground somewhere, because those sensors usually do not go bad all at once.

Make sure ALL grounds are on and secure as well.

 

well my cx has a plug on the intake manifold but my y8 doesn't? am i nuts or just blind. me and my friend were trying to find where that plug you are talking about goes. i know which plug you are talking about. the one that isn't plugged in for sure. as for the wiring i have checked it several times and i am sure it is fine.

it is only throwing 10(one long flash) and 22(two long flashes and two quick short ones).

i will do all you have told me once again on sunday or monday when i return home. thanks poison.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mycvc8u2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my cx has a plug on the intake manifold but my y8 doesn't? am i nuts or just blind. me and my friend were trying to find where that plug you are talking about goes. i know which plug you are talking about. the one that isn't plugged in for sure. as for the wiring i have checked it several times and i am sure it is fine.

it is only throwing 10(one long flash) and 22(two long flashes and two quick short ones).

i will do all you have told me once again on sunday or monday when i return home. thanks poison.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i put the iat on my intake and code 10 went away. but later came back on, but my idle is still fine.
vtec(22) was fixed too, one bad connection.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mycvc8u2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i put the iat on my intake and code 10 went away. but later came back on, but my idle is still fine.
vtec(22) was fixed too, one bad connection. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sweet. I'm glad you fixed the problem

 

thanks!!!