I've been searching and couldnt find a good detailed instructiuons on how to do it.. i see instructions for Gixxers but not the CBR's.. I would really appreciate it if someone would take some time out to help me out..Someone please help me out major problems im having is what to do about IACV and how my ecu would read it and the vaccums lines some. thanks

 

I'm going to do mine next weekend. I'll have pix and what not and I'll even show you guys how I seperated my throttle bodies to get a striaght flow into the head. I'll post detailed information for your b16 setup. It'll be the same since I'm putting mine on a type-R head. Hold tight for a bit and don't jump into this one and get ahead of your self. You don't want to screw anything up.

 

thanks a lot Nathan cant wait to see your setup and write up my parts are just sitting around collecting dust

 

aight ill be waiting thanks again

 

All right. I had my itbs "seperated" by a cycle shop today, Cycle Therapy. Basically, they were sawwed inbetween the throttle body. They are great guys and do awesome work. I will have pix up on sunday so you can see what they look like. They look tight, and its going to be easy to tune them because the butterflies rest against some sort of ridge so as long as they stay that way when you "tie" them together its all good. The method that I'm using isAnd make sure you have them checked with a vacuum meter so you know that they are at the same degree of opening. You will need to do this at a machine shop, but any muffler shop can do it to...its not that hard. This is all i have for now but on Sunday I'll put up some pix that will explain better how I sperated them and have them "tied" together.
Be back on sunday. Sorry its taking so long, I know you guys are as anxious as I am.

And, I'm going to be making a thread that has, in detail, the steps that are taken to gettin' these things running. It would be good to post anything that you came across, that I don't already have up. I'll let you know where and when it goes up.


Modified by nathan atwell at 9:39 PM 5/31/2004

 

WOW sounds good man can't wait, but is it necessary to separate them? i thought the CBRs line up pretty nice with the manifold

 

IT dpends if you are using them for a D series or a Bseries motor. I'm putting them on a Type-R so yes, it is nesseccary. On the D series its almost perfect the way it is. so its up to you. I'll show pix of what I mean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WuRKD b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW sounds good man can't wait, but is it necessary to separate them? i thought the CBRs line up pretty nice with the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the b series manifold its pretty close, if you want to get it perfect you should have aluminum tubes welded onto the stock manifold, but if you don't the cbr's still line up pretty good. I have a ton of pics showing this and will have more in the future. About cutting and separating them, to me this does not sound like the right way to do it. I would like to see some pics and maybe it will change the way I think about it. Also you said

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nathan atwell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> They look tight, and its going to be easy to tune them because the butterflies rest against some sort of ridge so as long as they stay that .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to explain more by tuning ? If your talking about getting the a/f tuned that is completely not true, if your talking about tuning them so there opening together, that might be true but with the cbr's I can't see that being a problem anyways. Anyways I would like to see some pics, I think it would explain things a little better.

Here are some pics showing the line up, I am still gonna take an inch or two of the stock manifold so they will line up even better once I do this.

This shot is not a direct over head, therefore it looks like its off by a lot but its not really.


They look off in this pic, but take into consideration that the stock manifold will be cut down a lot more.

 

lookn good, post up some vids when your done with that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lookn good, post up some vids when your done with that </TD></TR></TABLE>

Next Friday they will be going on.

 

(Here are some pics showing the line up, I am still gonna take an inch or two of the stock manifold so they will line up even better once I do this.)

Yea according to what you say about cutting it down more, my manifold is cut already about 2 inches from where your is now, and i think im gonna slap everything together by sunday and hopefully tuned with hondata sometime this week. I also bought the golden eagle vaccum manifold to help with the vaccum issues with the brake booster. Also what would be a good way to put on my 43mm velocity stacks?

 

Yes the pics will explain everything I'm talking about. And you'll be able to see what I mean by aligning the butterflies.

I wanted to have as straight of a path to the ports as possible and thats why i'm not going to use the stock manifold. You can use it if you want to, it just has to be measured to fit, very easy. But, its not perfect. and since this a DIY project, I want them to look as professional as possible. Ill be using a aluminum manifold that has the tank taken off. It will look like almost exactly like "eg6h8k" gixxer setup. Just wait and see, you'll like'em. Those ITBS above look pretty good, too. Nice work, so far.

 

Getting the A/F ratio will be a matter of adjusting the fuel pressure and fuel maps on my Hondata. As for the butterflies, I have seperated the ITBS for the straightest air flow so it was and issue but as long as you have access to a vaccum gauge, you will be fine. Any motorcyle shop will have one.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For the b series manifold its pretty close, if you want to get it perfect you should have aluminum tubes welded onto the stock manifold, but if you don't the cbr's still line up pretty good. I have a ton of pics showing this and will have more in the future. About cutting and separating them, to me this does not sound like the right way to do it. I would like to see some pics and maybe it will change the way I think about it. Also you said

Care to explain more by tuning ? If your talking about getting the a/f tuned that is completely not true, if your talking about tuning them so there opening together, that might be true but with the cbr's I can't see that being a problem anyways. Anyways I would like to see some pics, I think it would explain things a little better.

Here are some pics showing the line up, I am still gonna take an inch or two of the stock manifold so they will line up even better once I do this.

This shot is not a direct over head, therefore it looks like its off by a lot but its not really.


They look off in this pic, but take into consideration that the stock manifold will be cut down a lot more.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you look at the angle of the runners incomparison to the ITBS, on runners 1 and 4, you can see that the airflow is going to be directed over to the left for runner 1 and to the right for runner 4. This will decrease the amount of air going into that cylinder because the air will try to enter the cylinder by one valve and will intern leave those cylinders running richer on fuel than cylinders 2 and 3, not to mention cause more turbulence inside the port compared to having straight runners.
I'll show you what I mean tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nathan atwell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look at the angle of the runners incomparison to the ITBS, on runners 1 and 4, you can see that the airflow is going to be directed over to the left for runner 1 and to the right for runner 4. This will decrease the amount of air going into that cylinder because the air will try to enter the cylinder by one valve and will intern leave those cylinders running richer on fuel than cylinders 2 and 3, not to mention cause more turbulence inside the port compared to having straight runners.
I'll show you what I mean tomorrow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

After I finishe cutting the runners and and get the finally pics you will be able to see the difference is not that big, but if your looking to get the MOST out of it, it would be good to weld on aluminum stacks on to the stock mani, but I got quoted around 200 to do that.

 

Having some pipes welded on is a good way to do it. I going to be using an aluminum manifold like a venom or something like it for my runners. This is what I'm going for.





Modified by nathan atwell at 12:03 PM 5/29/2004


Modified by nathan atwell at 1:07 PM 5/29/2004


Modified by nathan atwell at 10:22 PM 6/3/2004

 

Well, I didn't get around to installing these things today. All I did was fabricate some pieces to hold them togther. This part of the adventure took longer than I thought, but I can show you how I have seperated them. I think it looks good so far, but it still has along way to go before I'm satisfied and ready to mount them. I have to find a better way to connect the shafts between the throttle bodies, it looks so ghetto the way i have'em but it works for now.

//// "I am having some problems putting up pictures. I will try again in a little bit." ////

 

Get those pics up

 

Do you know how to email them ? If so email them to me, at bigbob152000@yahoo.com I'll host them for you.

 

Here was my previous post:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nathan atwell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I didn't get around to installing these things today. All I did was fabricate some pieces to hold them together. This part of the adventure took longer than I thought, but I can show you how I have separated them. I think it looks good so far, but it still has along way to go before I'm satisfied and ready to mount them. I have to find a better way to connect the shafts between the throttle bodies, it looks so ghetto the way i have'em but it works for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

here are some pix.

This is what they looked like before the machine shop.

Here they are after the shop and after a little work by me. In this photo it shows the rough look of how I removed the factory airbox mounting and how they are spaced out.

Here is the fabricated bar that will support most of the weight of the ITBS.


Here they are with a rough idea of how the will look.


Almost finished.

Here is a shot next to the head. They look off but they are precisely spaced. I mounted them on a manifold to space them out. The picture wouldn't load, though.

Once again, they are ALMOST done. They still need some things done but I wanted to post what I had. This part of it took along time, all of Sunday to be exact. They open like they did before they were cut and they are perfectly aligned. I am not happy with the "clamp" that is holding the shafts of the butterflies but I will find some later this week. I looking for something like the seat clamps on bicycles, something like that. I am fabricating a bar that will open the throttle body springs this coming weekend. They look alright for now.Wish me luck.


Modified by nathan atwell at 1:50 PM 7/30/2004


Modified by nathan atwell at 3:00 PM 8/9/2004


Modified by nathan atwell at 3:01 PM 8/9/2004


Modified by nathan atwell at 3:02 PM 8/9/2004

 

Interesting, how did you make the throttle shaft longer ?

 

I used two halfed pieces of piping and clamped them using a hose clamp. I did this just for effect. It's really ghetto but this is not what will go on the final product. I want to use something like a seat post clamp from a bicycle. Thats the idea anyway.


Modified by nathan atwell at 9:12 PM 6/1/2004

 

Anyone have any info on what throttle bracket to use, I was told a d series one but I was looking at it yesterday and if you mount it where the stock cbr throttle bracket is, there is no way it will work.

 

i thought the regular b series cable would work that was wat i was told. i dunno i would like to find out also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WuRKD b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought the regular b series cable would work that was wat i was told. i dunno i would like to find out also</TD></TR></TABLE>

The cable will work but the bracket will not, I read a lot of things and was told a lot of things, you basically have to test them out to really see what works. I made a bracket that works and I probably post a picture of it so people can see. If anyone really would like to see it IM me and tell me so I can get some feed back on what you guys would like to see or hear about doing them.

 

i would like to see it cuz i would also need to make a bracket also then and it would be easier if i could just copy your bracket so i dont need to come up wit one