I'm putting the cams back on my b-series rebuild and i turned the crank to TDC and went to align the camshafts by turning them so the UP Arrows are both pointing straight up. But it looks like they are a little off. I can't get them to both point straight up, they're both pointing in a little. Is this normal or not? And if not, how do i fix it? Thanks.

Here's some pictures:

 

You need
1) set the bottom end to TDC
2) get the cams in roughly the right position.
3) put the cam caps on and tourqe them down.
4) line up the camshafts to exact TDC.
5) install the timing belt

The problem in your pictures is due to the cam caps not being on.

 

which cams are those? Once you get the cam caps on, there are two holes on each cap for pin punches. The punches go through the cap, into the cam, making sure they stay at TDC while putting the belt on

 

ok i torqued down the caps and turned both cams so the UP arrows are pointing up. but now i have another question.

there's 2 notches that are marked with white paint on the cam gears (as seen in the picture below). are those supposed to be lined up? because they're not close to being lined up when both gears are at TDC.



and the cams are GSR cams in a B16 head.. not sure what the cam gears are but i'd guess GSR.

 

ur right on track bro...

Don't worry about thoes white marks....i'm guessing somebody did that after a timing belt was installed.

Just line up the "up" arrows between the two dots on the oil passage rail thingy. Its not going to be 100% perfect, but it will correct itself when the t-belt is put on. Look at the c-speed racing timing belt install write up. If anyone has a link post it...or just search for it on here.

Also just a heads up...it might take you a few try's on the t-belt install. I have assymbled i don't know how many motors and can never get the tension just right on it. My freind is a pro at it so when its time for the t-belt to go on he has to get outta his chair.

hope this helps ya out

 

The "UP" arrows are only approximate. The notches out by the teeth ARE the TRUE timing marks. Paint notwithstanding, the notches should line up in a straight line with the camshaft centers.

 

so what are you saying? because if i line up those notches, the UP arrow on the exhaust cam will be at 11:30-11:45 instead of 12:00

 

Have you even tried to put the timing belt on yet? if not try that and you will see what everybody has already told you over and over again.

 

Yes, the UP arrow will not be quite straight. Use the notches against a straitedge laid along the camshaft centers. Just like the pictures in ALL the repair manuals.

 

i haven't put the crank pulley on yet because i need to order a metal plate that goes behind it.

so i'm hearing two conflicting things. but i'm supposed to line up the notches?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guedo148 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so i'm hearing two conflicting things. but i'm supposed to line up the notches?</TD></TR></TABLE>

YES line up the notches!! as long as the arrow is pointing up and the notches are lined up your good. up means up it doesnt mean 90 degrees it just means up.

 

Putting the 5mm pin punches through the cam rails and into the cams will help you line up the timing marks (white marks). The valve spring pressure is putting the cams in a odd position which is normal.

When you do put on the timing belt use the 5mm punches and follow the repair manual, make sure to follow the pully order in the repair manual, exhaust cam is last.

Tip: Slightly turn the exhaust cam CCW (wrench on the pulley bolt) when slipping the belt onto this pulley.

You'll figure it out after you try it a few times.

 

so this is TDC?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guedo148 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so this is TDC?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


now that is how it should look.

 

ok, got the timing belt on. but i can't seem to get it tight enough. i followed the directions in the manual to tension it properly but it still feels like there's too much slack.

 

It's not supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. Grab the middle of the long span (exhaust side). You should just be able to twist it 90 degrees in the middle.

 

i can twist it 90 degrees with one hand, if i use two hands i can twist it like 110 or 120.

so it's really supposed to be that loose?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guedo148 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can twist it 90 degrees with one hand, if i use two hands i can twist it like 110 or 120.

so it's really supposed to be that loose?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, as rule-of-thumbs go, it's sorta vague. I don't know how strong you are.

But yeah, it might be about right or borderline too loose. Some people have used a coathanger to help pull the tensioner. Just don't make it too tight. If it makes any whining noise (when running) then it's too tight.