Burning Out Ignitors
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Milky Way
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (Akalima)
Thanks. Are you getting any amount of miss under boost before the ignitor pukes?
Heres the deal, there is a protection device in the ignitor, either a TVS on the collector of the IGBT, or we drive the IGBT to self clamp around 350 volts. In reasonably simple terms, The energy you store in the coil has to go somewhere. Either it gets mostly dissipated in the spark or it "rings" between the secondary and primary of the coil. If it can't be dissipated in the spark, it "reflects" back thru the primary and the IGBT coil driver has to absorb that energy. It can only handle so much for so long. It's called exceeding the SOA or safe operating area of the silicon device (the IGBT driver).
I have seen this failure mode on GM HEI distributors of the late 70's early 80's vintage. In that era, it was typically a bad plug wire(s) that caused the equivalent to the Honda Ignitor to fail... and you never noticed a drivability problem on those V8's.
Since you are boosted one of the things to perhaps consider is closing your gap to around 0.020 or 0.022 and perhaps a new set of wires.
Chiovnidca what do you think?
Heres the deal, there is a protection device in the ignitor, either a TVS on the collector of the IGBT, or we drive the IGBT to self clamp around 350 volts. In reasonably simple terms, The energy you store in the coil has to go somewhere. Either it gets mostly dissipated in the spark or it "rings" between the secondary and primary of the coil. If it can't be dissipated in the spark, it "reflects" back thru the primary and the IGBT coil driver has to absorb that energy. It can only handle so much for so long. It's called exceeding the SOA or safe operating area of the silicon device (the IGBT driver).
I have seen this failure mode on GM HEI distributors of the late 70's early 80's vintage. In that era, it was typically a bad plug wire(s) that caused the equivalent to the Honda Ignitor to fail... and you never noticed a drivability problem on those V8's.
Since you are boosted one of the things to perhaps consider is closing your gap to around 0.020 or 0.022 and perhaps a new set of wires.
Chiovnidca what do you think?
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 193
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From: Sylvan Lake, AB, Canada
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (BigMoose)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigMoose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. Are you getting any amount of miss under boost before the ignitor pukes?
Heres the deal, there is a protection device in the ignitor, either a TVS on the collector of the IGBT, or we drive the IGBT to self clamp around 350 volts. In reasonably simple terms, The energy you store in the coil has to go somewhere. Either it gets mostly dissipated in the spark or it "rings" between the secondary and primary of the coil. If it can't be dissipated in the spark, it "reflects" back thru the primary and the IGBT coil driver has to absorb that energy. It can only handle so much for so long. It's called exceeding the SOA or safe operating area of the silicon device (the IGBT driver).
I have seen this failure mode on GM HEI distributors of the late 70's early 80's vintage. In that era, it was typically a bad plug wire(s) that caused the equivalent to the Honda Ignitor to fail... and you never noticed a drivability problem on those V8's.
Since you are boosted one of the things to perhaps consider is closing your gap to around 0.020 or 0.022 and perhaps a new set of wires.
Chiovnidca what do you think?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well ive always noticed a little missing at an idle after driving the car. One of the reasons iv gone to the smaller gap. I just kinda thought that it was a shitty piggyback with a shitty tune. I somewhat get the just of what u r trying to say just kinda lost me on the tech words.
I wouldnt say ive noticed missing but more of a power lose almost someone was turning boost on and off something holding the car back but the boost is a ten psi.
Im used to missing like a bent valve missing and its nothing like that.
Is ther anyway i can check the wires to see if they r messed up?
Heres the deal, there is a protection device in the ignitor, either a TVS on the collector of the IGBT, or we drive the IGBT to self clamp around 350 volts. In reasonably simple terms, The energy you store in the coil has to go somewhere. Either it gets mostly dissipated in the spark or it "rings" between the secondary and primary of the coil. If it can't be dissipated in the spark, it "reflects" back thru the primary and the IGBT coil driver has to absorb that energy. It can only handle so much for so long. It's called exceeding the SOA or safe operating area of the silicon device (the IGBT driver).
I have seen this failure mode on GM HEI distributors of the late 70's early 80's vintage. In that era, it was typically a bad plug wire(s) that caused the equivalent to the Honda Ignitor to fail... and you never noticed a drivability problem on those V8's.
Since you are boosted one of the things to perhaps consider is closing your gap to around 0.020 or 0.022 and perhaps a new set of wires.
Chiovnidca what do you think?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well ive always noticed a little missing at an idle after driving the car. One of the reasons iv gone to the smaller gap. I just kinda thought that it was a shitty piggyback with a shitty tune. I somewhat get the just of what u r trying to say just kinda lost me on the tech words.
I wouldnt say ive noticed missing but more of a power lose almost someone was turning boost on and off something holding the car back but the boost is a ten psi.
Im used to missing like a bent valve missing and its nothing like that.
Is ther anyway i can check the wires to see if they r messed up?
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,023
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From: Milky Way
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (Akalima)
The first order test of wires is to take an ohm meter and measure their resistance, then flex the wires around a bit with your ohmmeter. The resistance should stay rock solid. If it is varying around the wire is flaky.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,262
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From: long island, ny, usa
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (BigMoose)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigMoose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The first order test of wires is to take an ohm meter and measure their resistance, then flex the wires around a bit with your ohmmeter. The resistance should stay rock solid. If it is varying around the wire is flaky.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can use a basic 20$ craftsman digital multimeter to perform that test, btw.
just set it to this:
and use both sides and do what BigMoose said.
you were paying 250 a piece for ignitors? how much is a whole fresh dizzy from dizzy king? i seem to remember paying around that much for an obd0 b16a dizzy from him. the newer ones are that much more?
you can use a basic 20$ craftsman digital multimeter to perform that test, btw.
just set it to this:
and use both sides and do what BigMoose said.you were paying 250 a piece for ignitors? how much is a whole fresh dizzy from dizzy king? i seem to remember paying around that much for an obd0 b16a dizzy from him. the newer ones are that much more?
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 467
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From: Japan Direct
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (Akalima)
my roomate let me drive his h22 prelude that he warned me would eat igniters, and of course it destroyed one while i was driving, the car would not hold steady through the powerband and would choke and sputter, it eventually just cut off on me and he had to replace the igniter again........... 
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 193
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From: Sylvan Lake, AB, Canada
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (doublethink)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you can use a basic 20$ craftsman digital multimeter to perform that test, btw.
just set it to this: and use both sides and do what BigMoose said.
you were paying 250 a piece for ignitors? how much is a whole fresh dizzy from dizzy king? i seem to remember paying around that much for an obd0 b16a dizzy from him. the newer ones are that much more?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried ebay and couldnt find the right honda part number to match my car. I went to Honda and the cost is 250. When that one went they warrentied me a new one but that is acting up as well. I found out bout distributer king after the fact.
Has asnyone used there perfomance dizzy
you can use a basic 20$ craftsman digital multimeter to perform that test, btw.
just set it to this:
and use both sides and do what BigMoose said.you were paying 250 a piece for ignitors? how much is a whole fresh dizzy from dizzy king? i seem to remember paying around that much for an obd0 b16a dizzy from him. the newer ones are that much more?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried ebay and couldnt find the right honda part number to match my car. I went to Honda and the cost is 250. When that one went they warrentied me a new one but that is acting up as well. I found out bout distributer king after the fact.
Has asnyone used there perfomance dizzy
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Sylvan Lake, AB, Canada
Re: Burning Out Ignitors (Akalima)
Checked the wires with a meter and in the dark to see arking. Nothing everything checks out. I just think i need a whole new dist. That better do it or im done with cars altogether.
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