K iv done a search but still cant find a good answer. I have a turboed 99 gsr. Replaced the coil last year. This year i thought it went again but it turned out to be the ignitor. Changed the Ignitor but kept the same coil. Now three weeks later i blew another ingnitor. Hondas gonna give a new part but dont want it to go again.

So has anyone heard of Acura's going through ignotors at this rate? Could it be my piggyback? What is going on?

 

bump

 

i kept frying the stock coil. added a few extra grounds to the motor and fixed the problem.

 

would the lack of grounds also fry the ignitor?

 

Are you running a stock or aftermarket coil?

 

i am running a stock coil.
I do have a apre new one though

 

bump

 

Good grounds are crucial for a coil because if it cant get back home easily, the voltage saturating the coil secondary will try to "arc" somewhere, likes it does by jumping the spark plug gap. This is also why we use spark testers, as 9 or 10 good sparks to a valve cover from a wire will fry the coil. make sure all your connections are good and do not wind on eachother inside the distributor, if it decides to arc through the cap (pretty common on some cars) it can find its way through the insulation of your ICM wires and short the base of the transistors in it.

 

Awesome thanks for the info.

 

hey would an engine ground kit help?

 

It would prove to be benficial, since better grounds provide less resistance and less heat in the circuits and more voltage to the loads that use it. (IE head unit, lights and so forth.)

Make sure to examine the factory grounds, as they are placed in those locations for a reason, if you do move the grounds, make sure there is a metal contact to your new ground from the old one. (IE if you ground the transmission through a new ground on the block instead, you will be fine because it will go through the trans case to the block, and then to the cable, if wire tucking is your goal)

 

so ignitor number three just went today. I was having an issue with constant power and replaced the wastegate gasket which was leaking and i thought that i has another leak. It was like i had lots of power and then stock power and back and forth. Today the ignitor started doing the same thing again at 5 thousand rpm.
I mean i cant keep buying ignitors at 250 a piece this is crazy. I have no idea whats wrong.

 

they are 50 bucks on ebay and have a 3 month warranty bro.

ive always wondered if there was anything better than oem without going to coil packs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Akalima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Today the ignitor started doing the same thing again at 5 thousand rpm.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what's it doing? Or not doing?

 

Sorry its says at the very begining. Its starts missing at sputtering and will not let me rev higher than 5000 rpm. I know that when i put this last ignitor in it didnt have the power that the car should. Is it something totally dif. Plus what give the ignitor the signal to fire and how does it do it.

 

Are the connectors on the igniter good and tight? If they are a little loose they can be a problem.

The ecu tells the igniter when to fire to answer your question.

 

make sure the wiring inside your distributor isn't cracked. that's what i'm putting my money on. if it is cracked, you'll have to get a new distributor housing from honda, as they don't sell the wiring separately.

also, you may be able to find an auto electric shop that might be able to just fix the bad wiring for you... if in fact, you do end up finding a problem with this stuff.

 

So theres nothing between the ecu and ignitor except straight wires?
Oh and thinking it might be way off could it be the vtec soilenoid?
By the way u guys have been awesome thanks

 

Did you put your new coil in also? If not, put it in with the next new ignitor.

And close your plug gap up a bit. How much gap are your currently running?

Also give me the make and history on your plug wires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Akalima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry its says at the very begining. Its starts missing at sputtering and will not let me rev higher than 5000 rpm. I know that when i put this last ignitor in it didnt have the power that the car should. Is it something totally dif. Plus what give the ignitor the signal to fire and how does it do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The crank position sensor in the dizzy gives the signal to fire the spark, all the ignitor does is control the flow of current in the coil primary, if you have a weak connection between the BLK/YEL coil wire and the coil, this could cause that, also a loose crank position wire will also cause this, because the signal is deformed due to the weak connection. It has no ties to the PCM at all, and when it fails, it normally will not spark at all. (failure occurs when the base of the transistor shorts the collector, causing it to burn up and open. Sometimes extreme heat will destroy it as well, but when it dies, it dies completely.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It has no ties to the PCM at all, </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're talking about the igniter you better recheck your information. The igniter wont fire the coil without a signal from the ecu/pcm.

 

Lost my train of thought, it is signaled by the YEL/GRN wire in the PCM, if this wire is open, it will not fire at all. A combination of distributor sensors failing can also cause a no spark, and poor spark timing, depending on what fails.

 

So do u guys think im on the right page. Its deff my distributor causing my ignitor to fail. I found a complete setup at distributor king but dont wanna blow cash on somehting thats not gonna fix the prob.

 

I didn't ask the question on plug gap and the type of wires you are using for no reason...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigMoose &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't ask the question on plug gap and the type of wires you are using for no reason...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey sorry. The wires r the stockers. The plugs r copper bkr 7 with a gap of .030.