History: I swapped my GSR box with LSD with a friend who has a Turbo TypeR which has a ATS 4.929 FD and diff.
Driving with this tranny in my NA car has been really nice how ever I think his diff is broken since when i turn it knocks alot. I have to turn the car while accelerating for it not to knock and pull on the axles as aggressive and ANNOY ME. so i decided to swap back.

How every i Love the gearing, but crusing around in 5th at 4500 RPM isnt so cool.

THE BUILD:

So now i am setting out to build the ultimatte NA tranny.

Since my standard Gearbox i assume is a 4.4, I am thinking about purchasing my own ATS 4.9 FD and swapping out the 5th gear for the LS.

How every i would like to know is it better to get the 4.929 and the ATS 1st and 3rd or with just the 4.929 work well with my GSR ratios.?

How about 4.785 Type-R and the ATS 1,2,3 gears?

What do you guys think is the best combination?

Right now I am thinking ATS 1 and 3 and the 4.929 FD with LS 5th

 

worry more about the close ratio gears than the final drive

quaife is a company that knows gears, i modeled my ratios in my D trans after their bseries synchro mesh setup.

my next setup will be 3.083, 1.909, 1.565, 1.259, 1.00 with a 3.722 final drive.

I also have the option of 4.05 or 4.25 final drives. Having the gears closer together is more important than having a higher final gear.

my 1-2 gears will be "tall" but they will be close in respect to 3-4-5. so you sacrifice 1-2 rather than 4-5th for cruising.

my cruising rpm @ 80mph ~ 4450rpm which is 0.01% different than that of a stock b16/itr

 

and this is 2008, nobody buys ats anymore because mfactory/gear-x is much cheaper.

ATS sucks.

 

Id just like to take the time and say you suck bense Courtesy of likwidchz #honda

 

Sorry for the long reply.

I have been hearing about Mfactory. where can i go to check them out and see their pricing?

So you are saying that i can keep my stock FD but get MFactory 1-2 and may be 3 gears?

but if i make them taller wouldnt i be working backwards?
What do you suggest I do for my setup?

 

The clutch probably needs to be rebuilt which is why its knocking. It is a clutch type LSD. ATS gear products are not forged so I would stay away from them if you're looking at a lot of power. They are the the same of OEM gears being cast the same with the same material so if lots of power isn't a goal then you should be fine. I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan on boosting, in which case I wouldn't go with a gear set. A close gear set with a longer first would make a true close gear 1-5. Keep the stock 4.4 FD.

 

This is a good setup

1st = 3.077
2nd = 2.105
3rd = 1.625
4th = 1.296
5th = 1.13

1st ->2nd 0.684107897
2nd ->3rd 0.771971496
3rd ->4th 0.797538462
4th ->5th 0.87191358

Shifting at 8000rpm, with above gears, rpms fall to:
5472.863178
6175.771971
6380.307692
6975.308642

That combined with a tall final drive, like the 4.05. And this would be a nice combination.

http://www.teammfactory.com/pr...Gears
MF-TRS-01B12D


Total is $1600 though. Which is not much to pay for new 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and final drive gearsets.

 

I reviewed the gear set. and i was thinking about getting that gear set along with keeping my current 4.4 .
Those RPM drop points you mentioned are with my stock 4.4 ? or with the 4.05?


How ever i am trying to understand the "ratios" and their link to my power band. ( if that is the correct sentence)

With those gears and my 4.4 i guess my 80mph cruising RPM will be almost 5000-5500

 

the final drive has nothing to do with your rpm drops. it is the relation of the engine/trans to the wheels. Hence the reason it's also called the axle ratio.


The most common misconception is that final drives keep you in the "vtec zone more so than stock"

 

They don't. They just get you there faster than a stock FD.

A gear set will more than likely be shorter than a stock gear + non-stock FD and keep you in the powerband (RPM doesn't drop as much as stock when you have a gear set).

 

So would the gear kit Bense mentioned along with my stock FD be any good or will they be too close?

 

FD won't change how close the gears are, just the top speed in each gear, and how quickly you get through each gear. The MFactory gear set will work well with the stock final drive. All of my customers with the stock 4.4 FD who love it.

 

sounds good.

Any more suggestions?

 

What further information would you like to know?

 

A good limited slip, new ISB/seal, inspect all other bearings and replace as needed. New synchros. New axle seals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MFactory &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What further information would you like to know? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The main question i forgot to ask is if this will work with JDM GSR tranny?
My engine was imported directly from Japan

Do i need to replace any other internals when i am reaplacing my stock gears with you Mfactory gears?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good limited slip, new ISB/seal, inspect all other bearings and replace as needed. New synchros. New axle seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

JDM Type-R LSD? i am sure that is what my original tranny ( not the one i have in ) has in.

 

What is the code on the trans you will be building? Either way a MF gearset should work as fitment is the same with US B16 and B18C trannys. Only the final drive fitment is different. No other internals need to be replaced, though it is a good idea to replace the wear items. Some bearings you can get away without replacing if they look and sound good.

 

Y80 ...

 

Gearset will work fine.

 

CLutch type LSD's knocking, as you call it, is standard operating procedure. Only ones i have heard of not knocking are the carbon clutch plate ones.


Clutch type diff's FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CLutch type LSD's knocking, as you call it, is standard operating procedure. Only ones i have heard of not knocking are the carbon clutch plate ones.


Clutch type diff's FTW</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeh it knocks pulls and wobbles the car while turning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6madness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeh it knocks pulls and wobbles the car while turning </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is really hard to tell from your description, but in the 6 or 7 cars i have driven with clutch type diffs. They all do that. I have never driven a carbon disk clutch type diff though but have heard from others that it does not do this.

 

i want this back in my recent topics

 

Close Ratio Gears - As the name suggests, these are used to bring your gears closer together i.e Lower rpm drops between shifts, and at the same time offering the acceleration advantages of shorter ratios.

Final Drives - If used in conjunction with the Close Ratio Gears, these can be used as a fine tuning tool. For example, don't like the big drop in top end speed but want to keep the gears close? Solution - put in a longer final drive.

As you can see, by carefully choosing your gear ratios and final drive, you can achieve your goal, which is the Ultimate NA Transmission for your driving style

 

sounds like a plan