Okay here's what I have:

-98 GSR short block, minus pisons/rods(new OE water and oil pump), associated belts, etc.
-1st gen B16A head(complete)
**right now it has Auto cams(jdm), therefore it has single spring intake valvesprings.
-2001 stock GSR cams w/GSR valvesprings/retainers
-ITR intake manifold/TB

Here's what I'm planning on getting:

-EAGLE rods
-JE or SRP pistons(somewhere in the neighborhood of 9:5:1)
-OE bearings and seals
-OE headgasket

Engine management:
-ZDYNE Gold w/450cc injectors

Now, this is going to be all attached to my existing turbo setup-planning on boosting conservative 10-12psi(DRAG kit, w/FMIC). I figure the 9:5:1 pistons with the B16 head should net me a turbo friendly c/r of about 9:3, 9:4:1.

Any info on any additional things I may need, is welcome. If anyone is actually running this setup w/boost, please let me know how you like or liked it. TIA

 

^

 

get a oem block girdle if you dont have one apr head and rod bolts ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg_type_r93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a oem block girdle if you dont have one apr head and rod bolts ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, I've got the girdle and ARP head bolts. Forgot to list the rod bolts.

 

^

 

your C/R you want to run with a turbo is 8 to 8.5. 9's are too high

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spdbtr79460 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your C/R you want to run with a turbo is 8 to 8.5. 9's are too high
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are an idiot. 10.5:1 is not too high. So how can 9's be "too high?" The fact is you don't have to have lower compression to run a turbo. Especially not on only 10-12lbs of boost. It is just a myth Lowering your compression is just easier to tune and less risk of detonation(less tuning) but either way you should have a turbo setup tuned anyway. The only issue with very high compression and turbos is detonation and heat. Why don't you do some research before some newb takes your opinion as fact and ruins his motor. If I were you, RAWB I would go w/10:1 pistons. It will be faster and if properly tuned no less reliable. It needs to be tuned anyway so why make it slower when you have an opportunity to be faster?

 

Exactly what Havok said, you should get it tuned anyway so why take power away with a lower CR? Plus you'll have more power even when not boosting and have a better low end power curve before you hit full boost. for high CR turbo.

 

Yeah, I don't want to go below 9:5:1, don't want to be a total dog around town I'm using a ZDYNE, so tuning should be good, only lookin to get about 280-300 with this setup. I think the 9:5 --&gt;9:8 and 10-12psi should get me in the neighborhood reliably with decent drivablity(off boost)

 

sounds fun

 

All right then my ASE certifications and 3 years PROFESSIONAL racing experience dont matter and dont come cryin to me when your motor blows up with 10:! c/r in 6 months! After all you said you wanted it to be reliable

 

Dude, read the post. What do you think 8:5 compression will feel like off boost; a friggin dogg is what. I don't want to have to be at 7K RPM to pass someone. All the lower compression does is give you a bigger window of error for tuning. With all the Engine Mgmt devices out now, I see no problem in running mid 9 to 10 c/r(although I'm leaning towards 9:5 as a happy median) I've been boosting 8-10psi daily, sometimes 14psi on my TOTALLY STOCK B16 (10:1 c/r) for 2 1/2 years, and still drive 500 miles a week.

All your posted was
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your C/R you want to run with a turbo is 8 to 8.5. 9's are too high
</TD></TR></TABLE>

which, no offense is a newB answer, give some advice on why you say this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spdbtr79460 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All right then my ASE certifications and 3 years PROFESSIONAL racing experience dont matter and dont come cryin to me when your motor blows up with 10:! c/r in 6 months! After all you said you wanted it to be reliable </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to mention that "trial user" logo certification...

 

Do these motors have knock sensors? IF they don't what type of race fuel will you be using? 10:1 static C/R at 10Lbs. will produce a C/R of 14.8:1, 12Lbs. will produce 16:1. And, if there are knock sensors, your timing will be adjusted so much that you will lose the power you were going to be making.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99SS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do these motors have knock sensors? IF they don't what type of race fuel will you be using? 10:1 static C/R at 10Lbs. will produce a C/R of 14.8:1, 12Lbs. will produce 16:1. And, if there are knock sensors, your timing will be adjusted so much that you will lose the power you were going to be making.</TD></TR></TABLE>

By the magic of Engine Management(ZDYNE, for me) you are able to retard the timing under Boost. For instance, the TUNE I'm going to run(via another member who dyno'd it safely) has a BASE timing of 19 degrees, but under boost and WOT conditions is retarded, as required. This is all ran on 91OCTANE gas- no detonation.
My engine does have a knock sensor, but it only works up to 5500 RPM(mine is disabled anyway)

 

Anyone know what this has to do with a poor mans type R?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Furuoka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know what this has to do with a poor mans type R?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, it's getting off the subject, all I was lookin for was physically, am I missing anthing to complete this setup, not debate about FI and C/r's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spdbtr79460 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your C/R you want to run with a turbo is 8 to 8.5. 9's are too high
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shut up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spdbtr79460 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All right then my ASE certifications and 3 years PROFESSIONAL racing experience dont matter and dont come cryin to me when your motor blows up with 10:! c/r in 6 months! After all you said you wanted it to be reliable </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're gay, go work at Jiffy Lube with your ASE certification.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spdbtr79460 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All right then my ASE certifications and 3 years PROFESSIONAL racing experience dont matter and dont come cryin to me when your motor blows up with 10:! c/r in 6 months! After all you said you wanted it to be reliable </TD></TR></TABLE>


...... ASE or not might want to study up on forced induction. that quite possibly may have been the dumbest thing i have heard for awhile.

 

im still kind of curious what makes this a poor man's ITR setup, its like a Type RAWB setup my guess is the use of the B16 head on the B18C block... but its not an ITR NA mockup. It will be something ELSE

 

Poor man's Type Rawb

You're right, it's a modified Poor man's R setup. The B18C and B18C5 blocks are from the same cast, as is the B16(PR3 head) to the ITR head- just mild p/p job. I'm basically just lookin to get more displacement but still be able to REV to 8K w/o going LS/VTEC turbo.