Building a B16A Head and CTR pistons... 101?
Alright, here's the deal...
I have a B16A in a CRX. dynoed, it made a whopping 134fwhp and 101ft-lbs of torque.
I'd like to see at least 160fwhp...or be able to run high 13s without too much problem.
I'm looking to building the head and possibly run CTR pistons. I've searched and can't find any information on how to build the engine.
Here's what I'm looking to do:
- ITR Exhaust Cam
- CTR Intake Cam (i can imagine installing these being simple)
- ITR valves
- titanium retainers
- crowler springs (or should i just run ITR springs?)
- CTR Pistons
Now, i've read somewhere that the ITR valves need to be grinded down a bit to fit in the head of the B16A. Any pictures or further info of this?
Will the CTR pistons bolt to the B16A rods without a problem?
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to rebuilding the engine...but, what pistons do i order? The one's with the .040 overbore?
Should i get total seal rings instead, since i have the pistons out anyways?
cam gears, are they necessary, or just a good idea (for tuning, i know it's definitely the way to go)?
Can all this be done without too much trouble/experience? I have plenty of experience in wrenching, just have never touched the internals. Any help is appreciated... even a link or two.
My final goal:
- Rev to 9000rpm, and make power... and make +160fwhp. This is not going to be a drag engine, but a road course/autocross engine....so high revs for long periods of time is going to occur.
Also, i'm looking to do all of this for under $2000
[Modified by Driven, 10:15 PM 1/6/2003]
I have a B16A in a CRX. dynoed, it made a whopping 134fwhp and 101ft-lbs of torque.
I'd like to see at least 160fwhp...or be able to run high 13s without too much problem.
I'm looking to building the head and possibly run CTR pistons. I've searched and can't find any information on how to build the engine.
Here's what I'm looking to do:
- ITR Exhaust Cam
- CTR Intake Cam (i can imagine installing these being simple)
- ITR valves
- titanium retainers
- crowler springs (or should i just run ITR springs?)
- CTR Pistons
Now, i've read somewhere that the ITR valves need to be grinded down a bit to fit in the head of the B16A. Any pictures or further info of this?
Will the CTR pistons bolt to the B16A rods without a problem?
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to rebuilding the engine...but, what pistons do i order? The one's with the .040 overbore?
Should i get total seal rings instead, since i have the pistons out anyways?
cam gears, are they necessary, or just a good idea (for tuning, i know it's definitely the way to go)?
Can all this be done without too much trouble/experience? I have plenty of experience in wrenching, just have never touched the internals. Any help is appreciated... even a link or two.
My final goal:
- Rev to 9000rpm, and make power... and make +160fwhp. This is not going to be a drag engine, but a road course/autocross engine....so high revs for long periods of time is going to occur.
Also, i'm looking to do all of this for under $2000
[Modified by Driven, 10:15 PM 1/6/2003]
Also, i'm looking to do all of this for under $2000
Realistically you're going to be in it near 2k, but don't do it half ***, of you'll be doing it twice...
Now, i've read somewhere that the ITR valves need to be grinded down a bit to fit in the head of the B16A. Any pictures or further info of this?
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to rebuilding the engine...but, what pistons do i order? The one's with the .040 overbore?
cam gears, are they necessary, or just a good idea (for tuning, i know it's definitely the way to go)?
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to rebuilding the engine...but, what pistons do i order? The one's with the .040 overbore?
cam gears, are they necessary, or just a good idea (for tuning, i know it's definitely the way to go)?
Have the valves professionally installed with a three angle valve job.
As for CTR pistons-they come in two sizes: standard and 0.25mm over.
If the engine does not need to be bored, go with standard. If the bores have any deep scratches or are out of round, bore it 0.25mm over and go with oversize pistons.The machine shop can tell you if your block needs to be bored.
Cam gears are a must if you want to extract every possible HP out of your motor. Break the engine in, then have the engine dyno tuned. Good luck.
Alright, here's the deal...
I have a B16A in a CRX. dynoed, it made a whopping 134fwhp and 101ft-lbs of torque.
I'd like to see at least 160fwhp...or be able to run high 13s without too much problem.
Expect a little more than 160whp.
I'm looking to building the head and possibly run CTR pistons. I've searched and can't find any information on how to build the engine.
Here's what I'm looking to do:
- ITR Exhaust Cam
- CTR Intake Cam (i can imagine installing these being simple)
- ITR valves
- titanium retainers Titanium retainers are for race engines and are not recommended for street use. Plus they are overkill for your set up.
- crowler springs (or should i just run ITR springs?) Just run ITR springs
- CTR Pistons
Now, i've read somewhere that the ITR valves need to be grinded down a bit to fit in the head of the B16A. Any pictures or further info of this? They go in no problem.
Will the CTR pistons bolt to the B16A rods without a problem? You must machine off 1mm from each side of the rod where the piston connects for the piston to fit.
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to rebuilding the engine...but, what pistons do i order? The one's with the .040 overbore? Stock overbore pistons only come in .25mm overbore...go ahead and get the over bore since you will be disassembling your block anyways.
Should i get total seal rings instead, since i have the pistons out anyways? Factory overbore rings would be just fine.
cam gears, are they necessary, or just a good idea (for tuning, i know it's definitely the way to go)? Necessary? No..but why would you not buy them and try to tune your motor? It just doesn't make sence.
Can all this be done without too much trouble/experience? I have plenty of experience in wrenching, just have never touched the internals. Any help is appreciated... even a link or two. You better buy a helms.
My final goal:
- Rev to 9000rpm, and make power... and make +160fwhp. This is not going to be a drag engine, but a road course/autocross engine....so high revs for long periods of time is going to occur. Good goal...only thing is that the CTR cams don't make power past 8500rpm generally.
Also, i'm looking to do all of this for under $2000 Good luck, do most of the work yourself.
[Modified by Driven, 10:15 PM 1/6/2003]
I have a B16A in a CRX. dynoed, it made a whopping 134fwhp and 101ft-lbs of torque.
I'd like to see at least 160fwhp...or be able to run high 13s without too much problem.
Expect a little more than 160whp.
I'm looking to building the head and possibly run CTR pistons. I've searched and can't find any information on how to build the engine.
Here's what I'm looking to do:
- ITR Exhaust Cam
- CTR Intake Cam (i can imagine installing these being simple)
- ITR valves
- titanium retainers Titanium retainers are for race engines and are not recommended for street use. Plus they are overkill for your set up.
- crowler springs (or should i just run ITR springs?) Just run ITR springs
- CTR Pistons
Now, i've read somewhere that the ITR valves need to be grinded down a bit to fit in the head of the B16A. Any pictures or further info of this? They go in no problem.
Will the CTR pistons bolt to the B16A rods without a problem? You must machine off 1mm from each side of the rod where the piston connects for the piston to fit.
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to rebuilding the engine...but, what pistons do i order? The one's with the .040 overbore? Stock overbore pistons only come in .25mm overbore...go ahead and get the over bore since you will be disassembling your block anyways.
Should i get total seal rings instead, since i have the pistons out anyways? Factory overbore rings would be just fine.
cam gears, are they necessary, or just a good idea (for tuning, i know it's definitely the way to go)? Necessary? No..but why would you not buy them and try to tune your motor? It just doesn't make sence.
Can all this be done without too much trouble/experience? I have plenty of experience in wrenching, just have never touched the internals. Any help is appreciated... even a link or two. You better buy a helms.
My final goal:
- Rev to 9000rpm, and make power... and make +160fwhp. This is not going to be a drag engine, but a road course/autocross engine....so high revs for long periods of time is going to occur. Good goal...only thing is that the CTR cams don't make power past 8500rpm generally.
Also, i'm looking to do all of this for under $2000 Good luck, do most of the work yourself.
[Modified by Driven, 10:15 PM 1/6/2003]
[Modified by WAFFLES, 9:20 AM 1/7/2003]
Thanks for the feedback
The reason I'd like to do it myself is, i'm in Vegas. There aren't any good shops to bring my car to, that's close. I'd hate to travel to Cali to get the work done...
I guess getting cam gears is a smart idea, i'll have to add that to my shopping list.
I have a shop manual, shouldn't be too much of a problem.
Currently, the "go fast" mods are:
- DC 4-2-1 header (still need some of that low-end grunt)
- Moogen chipped ecu (generic burned chip with the copy of the mugen program, redline at 9500rpm)
- B&M FPR
- generic intake
Hmm, I was thinking of getting the head ported, since I'll have it all disassembled anyways... but, don't want to jump the cost of this by a grand.
Thanks again!
The reason I'd like to do it myself is, i'm in Vegas. There aren't any good shops to bring my car to, that's close. I'd hate to travel to Cali to get the work done...
I guess getting cam gears is a smart idea, i'll have to add that to my shopping list.
I have a shop manual, shouldn't be too much of a problem.
Currently, the "go fast" mods are:
- DC 4-2-1 header (still need some of that low-end grunt)
- Moogen chipped ecu (generic burned chip with the copy of the mugen program, redline at 9500rpm)
- B&M FPR
- generic intake
Hmm, I was thinking of getting the head ported, since I'll have it all disassembled anyways... but, don't want to jump the cost of this by a grand.
Thanks again!
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Just to confirm (as i've been doing more researching)... ITR valves need no modification to work in a PR3, B16A1 head?
I read somewhere that the seats have to be cut? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=337484
Also, can I just use the B16A outer valve springs with portflow inners without a problem?
I remember people saying to just use ITR intake valves, and switch the B16A intake valves to the exhaust side? Any issues with this?
I read somewhere that the seats have to be cut? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=337484
Also, can I just use the B16A outer valve springs with portflow inners without a problem?
I remember people saying to just use ITR intake valves, and switch the B16A intake valves to the exhaust side? Any issues with this?
You can not switch the intake valves to the exhaust side. What you are referring to is switching the GSR intake valve springs to the exhaust side and using ITR intake valve springs for the intake valves. ITR and B16 exhaust valves are the same, so you do not need to upgrade your exhaust valves. Just have a reputable machine shop do a three angle valve job once you get your valves and springs sorted out. They will replace all of the valve guide seals, hot tank, and resurface the head if necessary, though not in that order.
Will i have a problem with running an ITR exhaust cam with stock B16 valves?
Are the ITR outer valve springs better than B16 springs?
Are the ITR outer valve springs better than B16 springs?
Will i have a problem with running an ITR exhaust cam with stock B16 valves?
FYI:
I am running 1g b16 head with '01 ITR cams (same as CTR's btw, from what I have read), '01 ITR outer v springs, Portflow inner v springs, Portflow ti retainers, and stock 1g b16 valves. Approaching 7k on motor and it seems fine.
The reason I replaced the b16 v springs is because of their age. Plus, I had it all apart anyways. I wish that I had replaced the valves too though while it was apart...now it will be a PITA.
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