broken rear mount, what to do ??
im wondering if it would be better or even possible to use a 94+ rear integra mount on my 92 b16a civic
i think i might need a new rear mount, my car is difficult to shift at times and there is a small dent on my hood from my valve cover, i tried to manually rock my motor back and fourth and it gives a little buy not much, i just used the sohc mount when i did the swap and im wondering if the dohc mount is any stronger or will even fit....either way im getting some inserts ( i think)
-any thoughts?
i think i might need a new rear mount, my car is difficult to shift at times and there is a small dent on my hood from my valve cover, i tried to manually rock my motor back and fourth and it gives a little buy not much, i just used the sohc mount when i did the swap and im wondering if the dohc mount is any stronger or will even fit....either way im getting some inserts ( i think)
-any thoughts?
dude, i don't know how much the mount gives, but when you try to shake your engine it should be really hard to get it to go anywhere, and driving it like that will exponentially increase the risk of tearing the crap out of the other mounts. i know this because i have a b16 in my crx, and had a b16 in it before i got this one, which was in the car before i bought it, and the tranny mount wasn't the right one. the first thing i bought for it needless to say was the hasport kit. unfortunately it was too late by the time it got there. i was on my way to work one day when nokidding my engine fell out of my car on the highway. after i looked closely at the cause, i realized that the pulley side engine mount had stretched and cracked the bolt holes, leaving me stranded. if you feel the gear shifter move any bit more than barely noticable, then hold off on any hard driving until you get that fixed. please don't suffer my previos fate!
you should use either a 94-01 integra mount or a del sol dohc vtec mount
i do not think the 99si mount will work
i would reccomend getting a hasport mount or place racing
yes they cost a bit more but you will never replace the mount again
i do not think the 99si mount will work
i would reccomend getting a hasport mount or place racing
yes they cost a bit more but you will never replace the mount again
Park the car for 24 hours...
Pull the rear mount out, and lay it on a bench.
Go to Wal-mart (tm) (r) and buy the CHEAPEST tube of 100% silicone caulk.
ENSURE THAT THE METAL BUSHING IS SQUARED IN THE MOUNT.
Tape one side completely FLUSH.
Fill the gaps with silicone caulking WITHOUT air bubbles and smooth completely FLUSH with the Rim of the mount.
ALLOW TO DRY FOR 24 36 hours. Mild heat accels cure time. I have heard of 123984798743249857 people doing this. I never heard the drawbacks, so if there are any, fill me in.
Scoo-D
Pull the rear mount out, and lay it on a bench.
Go to Wal-mart (tm) (r) and buy the CHEAPEST tube of 100% silicone caulk.
ENSURE THAT THE METAL BUSHING IS SQUARED IN THE MOUNT.
Tape one side completely FLUSH.
Fill the gaps with silicone caulking WITHOUT air bubbles and smooth completely FLUSH with the Rim of the mount.
ALLOW TO DRY FOR 24 36 hours. Mild heat accels cure time. I have heard of 123984798743249857 people doing this. I never heard the drawbacks, so if there are any, fill me in.
Scoo-D
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRneXt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Park the car for 24 hours...
Pull the rear mount out, and lay it on a bench.
Go to Wal-mart (tm) (r) and buy the CHEAPEST tube of 100% silicone caulk.
ENSURE THAT THE METAL BUSHING IS SQUARED IN THE MOUNT.
Tape one side completely FLUSH.
Fill the gaps with silicone caulking WITHOUT air bubbles and smooth completely FLUSH with the Rim of the mount.
ALLOW TO DRY FOR 24 36 hours. Mild heat accels cure time. I have heard of 123984798743249857 people doing this. I never heard the drawbacks, so if there are any, fill me in.
Scoo-D
</TD></TR></TABLE>
would silicon caulk be better to use than polyurathane caulk?
Pull the rear mount out, and lay it on a bench.
Go to Wal-mart (tm) (r) and buy the CHEAPEST tube of 100% silicone caulk.
ENSURE THAT THE METAL BUSHING IS SQUARED IN THE MOUNT.
Tape one side completely FLUSH.
Fill the gaps with silicone caulking WITHOUT air bubbles and smooth completely FLUSH with the Rim of the mount.
ALLOW TO DRY FOR 24 36 hours. Mild heat accels cure time. I have heard of 123984798743249857 people doing this. I never heard the drawbacks, so if there are any, fill me in.
Scoo-D
</TD></TR></TABLE>
would silicon caulk be better to use than polyurathane caulk?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes just go with a integra rear mount
and also check your front torque mounts while you are at it</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool thanks and im wonderiig what would be best to fill the front torque mounts with poly..or silicon
and also check your front torque mounts while you are at it</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool thanks and im wonderiig what would be best to fill the front torque mounts with poly..or silicon
the best thing to do is get a set of hasport mounts and not even worry about the front torque mounts
i have hasport mounts and i find no need for the front mounts when my engine barely moves anyways
i have hasport mounts and i find no need for the front mounts when my engine barely moves anyways
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