Breaking in a motor... But why ?
2 straight questions, opinions welcome, but if you are guessing... let me know, heh heh.....
A motor is just built with all new seals and parts et cetera...
The typical break in period for a motor is anywhere between 500-1000 miles depending on driving conditions (street, traffic, highway or a combo)
ASSUME this motor will see BOOST in the future.
A.) What is the best way to break in a 'new' motor ?
B.) Why, exactly, do we break in a motor (what occurs that necessitates a 500+ mile drive) ?
A motor is just built with all new seals and parts et cetera...
The typical break in period for a motor is anywhere between 500-1000 miles depending on driving conditions (street, traffic, highway or a combo)
ASSUME this motor will see BOOST in the future.
A.) What is the best way to break in a 'new' motor ?
B.) Why, exactly, do we break in a motor (what occurs that necessitates a 500+ mile drive) ?
1) Basically, don't rev it too high. Just normal grandma driving until the break in period is over.
2) To get all the seals and everything to mate correctly. If you run it like you stole it, early, then you could possible create leaks from you seals.
2) To get all the seals and everything to mate correctly. If you run it like you stole it, early, then you could possible create leaks from you seals.
i got this info from a thread in the OG hybrid forum...
...when you first start it up, make sure there are no leaks, then bring the rpm's up to 2500 to 3000 rpm as soon as possible and leave it at that rpm for about 10 minutes, this will help the valves and rings seat for the break in. After that,drive the car easy...real easy, for the first 200 miles, take the rpm's up to 3000 rpms max...with every 200 + miles, add 1000 rpms to the limit. Every so often, like every 20 miles, zing the engine to about 1500 rpms over your limit, when i say zing, do it in a low gear...like first gear only, so the engine doesn t get a big load on it. I gaurantee you will burn a little oil. But the car should not smoke either. Good luck.
...when you first start it up, make sure there are no leaks, then bring the rpm's up to 2500 to 3000 rpm as soon as possible and leave it at that rpm for about 10 minutes, this will help the valves and rings seat for the break in. After that,drive the car easy...real easy, for the first 200 miles, take the rpm's up to 3000 rpms max...with every 200 + miles, add 1000 rpms to the limit. Every so often, like every 20 miles, zing the engine to about 1500 rpms over your limit, when i say zing, do it in a low gear...like first gear only, so the engine doesn t get a big load on it. I gaurantee you will burn a little oil. But the car should not smoke either. Good luck.
When you machine your cylinders you have a perfectly round surface. When you install the new rings on your pistons you must face the openings in the rings in different directions to ensure good combustion chamber seal. The break in period is to allow the rings to make minute ridges in the cylinder walls and rings so that the rings will not turn in the bore and allow the gaps to line up. the initial fast idle mentioned in an earlier post is to break in the cam and valvetrain. With the new parts installed if you rev too high there is a risk that parts that have not properly worn into each other can rotate and that would be bad.
my friend got this advice from a honda race car driver for his type r and it went like this don't cruise at highway speeds put it in fourth on the highway drive it up to like 5000 then let the car deccelerate untill your going about 40 or even less if you can handle the honking then do it again. do this as often as you can.
When you machine your cylinders you have a perfectly round surface. When you install the new rings on your pistons you must face the openings in the rings in different directions to ensure good combustion chamber seal. The break in period is to allow the rings to make minute ridges in the cylinder walls and rings so that the rings will not turn in the bore and allow the gaps to line up. the initial fast idle mentioned in an earlier post is to break in the cam and valvetrain. With the new parts installed if you rev too high there is a risk that parts that have not properly worn into each other can rotate and that would be bad.
Trending Topics
i mean that the rings could spin on the piston and the gaps at the ends of the rings could line up. this could cause a loss of compression because there is a straight path for the compressed mixture to pass by.
Thank you for the explaination....
Should there any particular oil that would be recommended for the break in period (viscosity) ?
Should there any particular oil that would be recommended for the break in period (viscosity) ?
Regular oil for break in, and then switch to synthetic. I myself would probably just use regular for the first 3,000 and change it every 1,000 to make sure everything breaks in just right.
My auto shop book tells us that lugging the motor briefly during the break-in period will help seat the rings... just don't do it a lot!
As much as I read about using dino oil for break-in... I still dunno why! I understand you have to change the oil after 500 miles or so to make sure there's no crap in the motor in the long-term, but couldn't you use synth in that time, apart from cost?
As much as I read about using dino oil for break-in... I still dunno why! I understand you have to change the oil after 500 miles or so to make sure there's no crap in the motor in the long-term, but couldn't you use synth in that time, apart from cost?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BodyKits NW
Forced Induction
23
Sep 16, 2007 03:23 PM
Evolution-93-Ex
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
7
Mar 20, 2006 12:31 PM




