Bottom End build up...few ?'s
any trouble running :
b16a block with GSR crank and rods? Should not be a problem running a GSR oil pan correct (dont have the B16)?
Soon to be boosted will there be any trouble in running this combo? Engine will be built with sleeves and 84mm CP pistons, eagle rods, and GSR crank.
b16a block with GSR crank and rods? Should not be a problem running a GSR oil pan correct (dont have the B16)?
Soon to be boosted will there be any trouble in running this combo? Engine will be built with sleeves and 84mm CP pistons, eagle rods, and GSR crank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5w20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any trouble running :
b16a block with GSR crank and rods? Should not be a problem running a GSR oil pan correct (dont have the B16)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong size, wrong geometry. GSR crank & rods will not fit into a B16/B17 block, but will work in a B18A/B or B20B/Z block.
b16a block with GSR crank and rods? Should not be a problem running a GSR oil pan correct (dont have the B16)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong size, wrong geometry. GSR crank & rods will not fit into a B16/B17 block, but will work in a B18A/B or B20B/Z block.
When you sleeve it, just have it deckplated to B18C height. Same cost as std. sleeving and will give you the correct rod angle. Check out http://www.erlperformance.com , there are many of that combo with their deckplate out running. Go to the gallery and check out Honda's factory drag car (HART).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickcarl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> When you sleeve it, just have it deckplated to B18C height. Same cost as std. sleeving and will give you the correct rod angle. Check out http://www.erlperformance.com , there are many of that combo with their deckplate out running. Go to the gallery and check out Honda's factory drag car (HART).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Always sounds easier on paper than when you actually do the work. I've seen so many deck plates that were welded on but not done properly. Then when you go to do the clearance checks, one or more of the cylinders have sunk because from the heat of the welder. That's just one example. Unless you really want to go through all of that just to use a B16 block, might as well use a B18 block with the correct deck height to begin with and go from there.
Always sounds easier on paper than when you actually do the work. I've seen so many deck plates that were welded on but not done properly. Then when you go to do the clearance checks, one or more of the cylinders have sunk because from the heat of the welder. That's just one example. Unless you really want to go through all of that just to use a B16 block, might as well use a B18 block with the correct deck height to begin with and go from there.
No welding involved, we've never had a sleeve sink. The process was in Modified mag. and Precision engine. You can buy a B18C block and have it sleeved too. Either way. The deckplate is the same price as std. deck height and sleeving.
And how much does that cost? I know typically to have a block sleeved is in the area of $700. A deckplate and sleeving will cost that much as well?
I have a B18C block that i can put a 95MM crank but GE doesnt do deck plates anymore. It would have been a 2.1L in a B18C block. Since they didnt do it anymore i was wondering if i could do what i had stated above but i guess not.
Trying to build something sneaky AKA "B16A" = 2.0L and "B18C1" = 2.1L....looks like its not happening
Trying to build something sneaky AKA "B16A" = 2.0L and "B18C1" = 2.1L....looks like its not happening
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We can deckplate the B18 to the 8.898 deck height. The ARP head studs and timing belt is all figured out for the GSR head. The long stroke, short deck motors cause bad rod angles and side load the pistons. As someone said earlier, the geometry is wrong to last very long.
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TimKennard
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Apr 27, 2013 12:15 PM




