hey guys and gals, i was wondering how big i could bore a b16a safely and efficiently.. also i wanted to avoid sleeving.. but if its worth it for larger power gains i will consider it...

i am trying to bore to 1.8l using forged pistons and hopefully raising the compression a little... i have spoken to numerous people but i was told this is where the real info comes from....


thanx guys and girls... i am i need of some advise...and any help would e great..

 

bore/sleeve to 84mm

1.8 liters.....

 

would this be safe and the increased compression pose any problems??? anything else which would help... thanx

 

honing doesnt increase your compression , decreasing the size of the combustion chamber does.
I would suggest contacting an engine builder and telling them what you want to do.

it seems as though you arent up to the task of building an engine with these questions....


[Modified by Doctor CorteZ, 3:14 PM 11/29/2002]

 

increase compression through the pistons... what are u saying??? through the boring??? lol..

the motor is a dohc 1.6l vtec.. just incase...

 

The pistons themselves increase the combustion chamber. By getting a higher dome piston, you decrease the size of the combustion chamber, thus raising the compression. Honing just cleans up the cylinder walls, making them smooth. Boring increases the displacement of the engine. A stock 1.6 81mm bore is a 1.6 A sleeved 1.6 bored out to 84mm is roughly a 1.8. The most you can bore out a stock sleeved b16 is only .5 mm. Any more and the cylinder walls would be too thikn it unsafe. Sleeved, you can bore it up to 84mm I think, maybe a little more. I thought I have seen a sleeved b16 bored out to 85mm, but I could be wrong.

edit: to early in the morning to type w/out making mistakes


[Modified by non-turbo2dr, 11:14 AM 11/29/2002]

 

contact someone that KNOWS how to build your engine.

 

According to Dan @ DPR if you are going to stay all motor you can bore the stock sleeves to 83mm.

also there is a sleeve kit on the market that ARI sells that will allow you to go 86mm. I personally went with 85mm

 

thanx guys... doctor cortez??? u have no idea either... but i ask the Questions not give stupid answers... if i knew how to build an engine perfectly u think i would ask u???

wake up... please..

 

I am boring and sleeving my b16a to 84.5mm and using wiseco pistons.
Golden Eagle is sleeving the block so I can spray it too.
This combo yields almost a 1.8L displacement, but without stroking the motor.
This means a motor that can rev fast and high (10,000 rpm)

 

how much roughly will it cost for the pistons and the sleeves???

and are you increasing ur compression in your block??

and also how much power would you be expecting and would there be power to be had at above the 7300rpm mark??

possibly with replaced cams????

cause that is my step.. first intake and exhaust.. already completed.. 2 1/4 press bent with high flow cat... and simota air pod...


second will be to bore out to a 1.8 therefore increasing displacement and compression ..

then to run a stand alone ecu.. hondata...

next step is to replace cams and valve springs...


then see how i am going.... anyone else got an opinion on my path.... like what cams do they think??? and please include prices thanx.... great help...

 

Pistons by wiseco for b20, cost $600 roughly 12.1 to 1
Golden Sleeved block $725
Eagle Rods $350
Jun 3 cams $800
Jun 3 valvetrain $500
Head by Alaniz $1400
Mugen steel head gasket to raise compression $150
JG Edelbrock Victor X Manifold $500
Erick's Racing TB 70mm $375
Speed Pro Engine Mgmt $2000
The JUN 3 built longblock yields 240 WHP, i am looking for about the same
The header is up in the air because i want a long tube and want to keep my a/c
Jun 3 cams will make power past 9000 rpm
Erick's racing uses TODA to make power to 10,000 + rpms
This setup is going into my 93 CX daily/strip warrior
I don't know of anyone with this setup in the b16, but the rod ratio of the b16 is better than that of the b18C, so that is why i went this route.
I' ve had two type R's, a n/a and supercharged so i crave high rpm motors.
This time i wanted to go all the way

 

Really. I talked to someone at Import Builders and he said he wouldnt recommend boring out a B16 to more than 81.5. At least that is what I thought he said, I could be wrong though.

 

That would be the case with the stock cylinder walls, they' re too thin and flex too much.
If you get your block sleeved, you can bore it out to 86mm, although if you have problems later, you will have to get resleeved, as opposed to honing the sleeves.
This is why i chose to go 84.5mm, it leaves a little bit of room to machine it if the need occurs later.

 

With 84.5mm pistons, you only get ~1.7 liters.

 

Correct.

(pi)(radius)(radius)(stroke)(# of cylinders)=displacement

84.5mm bore=42.25 mm radius for the bore=4.225cm
(3.14159)(4.225)(4.225)(7.7)(4)=1727.24........cc' s

 

would it be better to put in a b18c instead of bore and honing the b16a block ..??

this way i am not affecting the cylinder walls??

and also could i bolt the b16a head onto the b18 block cause of the better flow properties or not....

also my other alternatives are putting in a whole

1. b18c engine.. 2.

b20z with b16a head ..

3. or to do as i have said here... bore, hone and sleeve existing block

i am after reliable and fast...... and hopefully not too much money.. but enough to do it properly...


alternatively if u have another idea on how to increase my power without turbo... please... i am all ears...

i am after the 14 second band.. and hopefully the low to mid side... this is my start.... thankyou for all ur help.....

 

If you ever plan on turbo set up, don't go over a 3.209 bore. Just get the b18 block instead or Import builders has a 2.0l block.

 

I have a spare B18C and I didn't use that because the rod ratio of the B16A rods is more suitable for ultra-high rpm. Like i said previously, I am building a street/race car. My power band is in the area of 7000rpm to 10,000 rpm. You can obtain the same power with a B18c at a lower rpm and possibly more torque, again two ways to achieve the same goal. I personally am crazy about high rpm Honda motors. Second, a B16a block is a lot cheaper and easier to find than a B18C. I bought my B16a block and crank for only $200. I am able to sleeve and bore my block and obtain a B18c or B16a head for far less $$$ than a B18C long block. I sleeved B16A block is much stronger than a B18C with factory sleeves. Another good reason to go B16 with sleeves. On top of all of that I will probably use a direct port nitrous kit (this is strictly for fun, to go after big V8 cars like the Z06 vette, camaro etc).
14 second 1/4 times not a problem, a built B16 should be good for at least low 13's in a CR-X. Mid 12's should not be a problem running an ecu, Toda or Jun cams.

 

Let me ask you one simple question. How much money are you going to spend? What is your goal? If you want real hp, you need to get new sleeves.

 

my goal is low 14 second passes.... i plan to bore the block out to 1.8l and sleeve. then place forged pistons in and up the compression.... and see how i run... shouldnt be that far away..


but i have money... i am budgeting in sections... like no more than 7k for this... then i will work on the head.. changing gaskets, cams and valve springs... my brakes are already done. as well as suspension... u guys have helped out alot... thanx