the 3 wire colers are large white w/1 dot yellow w/whie stripe 2 dots and white w/blue stripe 1 dot i cut this last one car now starts again but i still have no interior lights and have no idea what this wire goes to anyone have an idea

 

this is getting ridiculouse e very time i fix somthing somthing else happense i have now had to replace the altanator evrything else seems to be working fine except the dam cluster backlight and its wierd how my tak hits 3.5k in the on 2 position

 

Pull the Dash Lights Brightness Controller, [sometimes called a dimmer switch] it will have three(3) leads going to it, unplug it and test the red/black for power, [hot when park/head lights are on] test the black lead, it should have full continuity to chassis ground.

If good both are good, [power and ground] use a paper clip to jump the red, [illumination ground through resistance] to the black, [chassis ground], if dash lights turn on, replace the Dash Lights Brightness Controller.

Is that plug with the 3 leads from the engine harness, if so what engine harness are you using, MM&Y of car it's from.

Or is it from the engine bay fuse box, white is almost always main lighting power lead from engine bay fuse box to Combination Light Switch, is it just the dash lights that are not working, do yoiu have patk and head lights? 94

 

looks like i had to go a little different route first heres sum pics of what i believe are suppost to be the ac wires wich were toast all the way to the firwall im at decision time tight now tho trying to decide if i want to just replace the wiring tho

 

I am guessing the blue/red is the A/C pressure switch input from the ECU/ECM, [should be the only blue/red A/C wiring in the engine bay] and it is a ground when A/C is on.

However, the black/yellow is an ign.1 power, [hot in run and start] and my guess is that the black/yellow and blue/red "chafed" together resulting in a short to ground on the black/yellow, the power will fallow the circuit to ground, in this case back to the ECU/ECM down the blue/red lead.

With the shape your wiring is in, I would replace it with a "new" undamaged/unmodified one, possibly from your local bone yard, [PicknPull], in fact if the rest of the car harnesses are in the same condition, [cut up, wires tagged into them, connected together or otherwise "modified"] i would look at replacing them also.

Troubleshooting problems is hard enough, [as you already know] without the added problem of damaged/modified wiring. 94

 

so just removing the pins on the ecu plug is a no go? why would the ac compressor get anything in on 1 could this mean that sum of the dashwiring/the a/c button is no good
i cut all these wires about 8'' frum the firewall
reconected the wire i had cut before and no problems there
so now whats left is once again is spark and dash lights

 

Did you...
"Pull the Dash Lights Brightness Controller, [sometimes called a dimmer switch] it will have three(3) leads going to it, unplug it and test the red/black for power, [hot when park/head lights are on] test the black lead, it should have full continuity to chassis ground.

If both are good, [power and ground] use a paper clip to jump the red, [illumination ground through resistance] to the black, [chassis ground], if dash lights turn on, replace the Dash Lights Brightness Controller"

To check the dash lights?

Obviouasly there is still a problem, if you still do not have dash lights and no spark, actually it is two problems, the dash lights and spark circuits are totaly diff. circuits, park lights are on a 12V+ constant circuit and spark is on a 12V+ switched circuit.

Have you checked to see if you have power to the distributor assembly when ign. is in both the run and start positions?94

 

i did pull it the dimmer switch and jumperd the wires it did nothing

i jumped the ecu cel code it flashes to a brighter solid when i turn the key on so im taking this as a ecu problem not the
( dizzy wich i retested the bl/ylw wire and was getting power in the start posistion )
i checked both of the spare ecus i have theyre both good still id rather re wire powe to the ecu than have to replace the whole harness ive pulled them before and its not fun

 

so as i feared no power to ecu where do i splice this back into to get power again

 

at the main relay im gettin the correct voltage on all leeds ecept #3 is suppost to be .5 its at 1.5 in the on2 position

 

Do you mean where to splice the yellow/black to get power to it, I assume that is one of the ECU/ECM plugs, if so, that is IGP1 or IGP2, there is another yellow/black going to the ECU/ECM, [there are only two(2) yellow/blacks going to the ECU/ECM].

See if the other yellow/black has power, [12V+].

If it does it does, you can jump from it. the break is where the yellow/black splits into the two.

If it does not, check the yellow/black at the PGM-FI Main Relay, [injector relay output, hot in run and start].

If there is power at the yellow/black coming from PGM-FI Main Relay, the break is between the relay and the ECU/ECM, you can run a lead from the yellow/black at the PGM-FI Main Relay to the two yellow/blacks at the ECU/ECM. IGP1&2].

You MUST cut the two yellow/blacks at the ECU/ECM plugs, [give yourself some room to work with, leave an inch or so pigtail on the ECU/ECM plug], those leads have no power on them, but that may be because they are shorted to ground, take what you can't see out of the circuit your bypassing, don't forget to "cap off" the now unused cut ends.

If you want to do the bypass properly, or as close as possible, you will cut back as far as you can "conveniently" the wiring harness covering, [electric tape, convoluted tubing] even a few inches will work.

Cut the yellow/black where it would have been under the harness covering, if both are in the same harness, "stagger cut" them, on an inch longer/shorter then the other, slip a piece of shrink tube over the cut ends, [harness side], a little wrap of electrical tape will also work.

Now solder and shrink tube, extensions, [long enough to reach the PGM-FI Main Relay] to the other cut ends, [plug side].

Hint, these are 12V+ power leads but they are low current, you do not need to run heavier gauge wire, and you can use a parallel solder connection.

Parallel solder connection, strip 3/8-1/2 inch of insulation off each end, twist together, tightly, the strand of each lead, "tin" the ends, [fill ends with solder and whip off the excess] this is the harder part, it needs a steady hand, orientate the wires so you can comfortably and steadily hold the stripped ends parallel to each other, [in-line] pick up a drop of solder with your soldering iron, carefully touch soldering iron to the stripped wire ends that you are holding steady, when the solder "flows" carefully remove soldering iron, DON'T MOVE, five the solder a chance to cool and solidify, can take more then a few sec, blowing on it will speed it up.

Slip a piece of shrink tube and shrink it, [just long enough to cover the stripped wire portion, or give it one wrap of electrical tape] slip a longer piece, [2-3 times longer] over the connection and shrink it.

If you have done the solder connection properly, [straight and parallel] you will have a bulletproof connection, with well below tolerance resistance, and pretty much corrosion proof.

If you cut back enough on the harness covering, the now unused cut ends and the extention lead connections will end up under the recovering/re-taping of the harness.

Clean neat and tidy.

At the ECU/ECM end, de-pin the yellow/black and solder your extensions to the shank of the metal terminal.

Hint, cut the insulation down to the wire at the top of the terminal shank, just above where the terminal wraps around the insulation, carefully "open" the insulation crimp, remove piece of insulation that was under the crimp.

Strip about 1/8 of an inch of insulation off your extention ends, twist and "tin" them
insert one stripped wire on each side of the terminal, re-crimp the insulation tabs, but this time just over the stripped wire ends, solder all three(3) leads inside the crimp together, again, bulletproof.

The only thing to keep in mind, avoid interfering in any way with the terminals retainer, parts that lock the terminal into the plug.

Class dismissed

Back to, "at the main relay im gettin the correct voltage on all leeds ecept #3 is suppost to be .5 its at 1.5 in the on2 position"
#3 lead?
.5?
1.5?

Voltage, at any lead at the PGM-FI Main Relay that should have voltage, should be, batt. voltage, [same voltage as at the batt. or very close. 94

 

i gave in finnaly im in the process of pulling the harness out of my other eg i hate doing thiss harness swap cus u have to pull so much to do it properly but when i get the old one out i will untape it and fix any problems that are left thanks for the help

 

so i just got my main wiring harness swap done and i now have power and a good ground to ecu but i still have no spark i just rememver not bolting down the ground on the driverside could this be causing my problem

 

Grounds need to be grounded. 94

 

it was the dizzy not the ground