like the tittle says ecu problems nothing i have read in the last 2 days has helped so these are my symptomsin my eg cel on constant jumpered or not,back up fuse blown, ecu blown,tak at 3.5k,ecu fuse is not blown,o2 is bad car ran perfect after swap i had originally gotton the car with wiring isues and a blown ecu wich was caused by a 4 wire jumper ti the ig at the colum i removed it replaced the ecu and it worked up untill al this

 

I'm really trying to understand what your problem is but.....

 

like the tittle says ecu problems. nothing i have read in the last 2 days has helped so these are my symptoms in my eg. cel is on constant if its jumpered or not,back up fuse is blown, ecu blown,taki s at 3.5k,ecu fuse is not blown,o2 is bad.the car ran perfect after swap. I had originally gotton the car with wiring isues and a blown ecu, wich was caused by a 4 wire jumper to the ig at the colum. i removed it replaced the ecu and it worked up untill al this. better?

 

update changed main relay removed ecu backup fuse still blows

 

update ckecked where the fuse goes getting 12v on both sides removed main relay only get 12v on the right side really need help going to have to sell my car soon if i dont fix this

 

Lets start with the MM&Y of car your talking about, it would help.

As mentioned by Blown90hatcH, GRAMMAR, it is impossible to understand what you are asking/saying...

"update changed main relay removed ecu backup fuse still blows"

The above is impossible as discribed, what it sounds like is, you replaced the PGM-FI Main Relay, you removed the ECU fuse but it still blows?????

This is also confusing...

"update ckecked where the fuse goes getting 12v on both sides removed main relay only get 12v on the right side really need help going to have to sell my car soon if i dont fix this"

What fuse, the ECU fuse, [a location/fuse number and amperage along with what fuse box, engine bay or under dash] would help and still need to know what car we are dealing with???

I get the part where you test both test tips on the fuse and it shows power on both, [like fuse is good] but if you pull/unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay you only get power on one of the test tips of the fuse, [indicating blown fuse].

The only way that can happen is if you have a blown fuse and the fuse box supplies power to one side of the fuse, [normal] and the PGM-FI Main Relay is supplying power to the other side of the fuse, [not normal].

The PGM-FI Main Relay has three powers going to it, and two powers coming out of it

The input powers are...
12V+ constant, most likely a white/black and most likely a 15A fuse in the engine bay fuse box/
12V+ switched, [hot in run and start] yellow/green or black/yellow, most likely a 15A fuse in under dash fuse box.
12V+ switched, [hot when cranking to start only] normally a 7.5A fuse in the under dash fuse box, this fuse also goes to the ECU\ECM for crank signal.

The outputs are the injector relays output, to injectors and IGP1&2 of the ECU/ECM, and the fuel pump relays output, to fuel pump only.
Neither of the above outputs go back to a fuse in either fuse box.

The last fuse, 7.5A, [hot when cranking to start only] is the one fuse, [if blown] that could show power on both sides, but only when cranking to start and only if diode in PGM-FI Main Relay was blown, and it would show power only on one side, [fuse box side] if PGM-FI Main Relay was unplugged.

The ECU/ECM back-up fuse is a 7.5A fuse in the engine bay fuse box and is not connected to the PGM-FI Main Relay in any way, other then trough the ECU/ECM, via the 7.5A hot when cranking to start only fuse.


So questions...

MM&Y of car?

Any mods, engine swap, wire tuck, aftermarket sterreo and so on?

The fuse that blows, does it blow as soon as you plug it in, when you turn on the ign., when cranking to start or is it at some random time?

If the fuse that blows, is the same one you get power on both sides of, if PGM-FI Main Relay is plugged in, and only one side when PGM-FI Main Relay is unplugged, is it blown when you test for power?

The ECU/ECM 7.5A back-up fuse is in most Honda/Acura also memory power for the radio and clock, [if you have a clock] and sometimes lighter.

To elliminate the above as the problem, disconnect the radio, clock and lighter and install a new fuse and see what happens.

Please answer all the above questions, as clearly as you can. 94

 

So questions...

MM&Y of car?
? I THINK YOURE ASKING FOR MAKE AND YEAR SO 95 EG EX

Any mods, engine swap, wire tuck, aftermarket sterreo and so on?
THE ENGINE IS A SWAPPED Z6

The fuse that blows, does it blow as soon as you plug it in, when you turn on the ign., when cranking to start or is it at some random time?
THE FUSE BLOWS WHEN ITS PLUGED IN


If the fuse that blows, is the same one you get power on both sides of, if PGM-FI Main Relay is plugged in, and only one side when PGM-FI Main Relay is unplugged, is it blown when you test for power?

The ECU/ECM 7.5A back-up fuse is in most Honda/Acura also memory power for the radio and clock, [if you have a clock] and sometimes lighter.

To elliminate the above as the problem, disconnect the radio, clock and lighter and install a new fuse and see what happens.

I WAS MISTAKEN IN MY LAST UPDATE I HAD THE NEGATIVE BATERY TERMINAL DISCONECTED, SO I WAS BEING SHOWN CONTINUITY THE BACKUP FUSE IS GETTING 12V AND O.
WITH CLOCK,RADIO,LIHGTER, ECU, MAIN RELAY DISCONECTED THE FUSE STILL BLOWS


AS I WAS SAYING BEFORE WHEN I GOT THE CAR TH IG FUSE WAS BLOWING IT HAD BEEN CAUSED BY A 5 WIRE JUMPER BETWEEN THE IG STEERING COLUM HARNESS AND THE MAIN HARNESS
I WILL UPLOAD PICS TO MY PROFILE

 

So you have unplugged everything on that fuse, [ECU/ECM fuse] except the the ECU/ECM and fuse still blows. so next obvious step is to unplug the ECU/ECM and see if fuse still blows.

If not, the ECU/ECM is the problem.
If so, you have a wiring problem, [short to ground].94

 

na the ecu is un plugged im going to se if i can track down this wire anyone have a diagram of what pins are what

 

got the 7.5 backup fuse to stop blowing now im not getting spark what the hell

 

im adding a photo to my profile of the wires that were spliced into eachother causing the 7.5 backup fuse to blow out

 

You can upload pix right here.

Do you still have power at the distributor with ign. switch in both the run and start positions, [black/yellow lead at distributor plug]? 94

 

on 1 no on 2 yes ans i cant figure out how to upload pic on thread it aske for adress not the usual upload stuff

 

Click the advanced, next to post quick reply at bottom of page.

A new "window" will pop up with more "stuff" along the top of message window.

Click on paperclip to the right of smily face, a window will pop up click on a browse.

Select a pic from my pictures and double click on it, the "address" will appear in the browes window, click upload, once done close the browes window.

Click on paperclip again, an image "address" will appear as a dropdown, place curser where you want the imake on the message window then click on dropdown, a number will appear bracketed in ATTACH, scroll down and click on, preview post, to see what it will look like...



You can also upload from a URL.

Does fuel pump still prime? 94

 

that seems to have worked

 

Where exactly is that in the car, step back a bit and take a pic, and you can re-size the pix in my pictures so they fit better.

You said, "TH IG FUSE WAS BLOWING IT HAD BEEN CAUSED BY A 5 WIRE JUMPER BETWEEN THE IG STEERING COLUM HARNESS AND THE MAIN HARNESS"

Have you got pix of that, or what wires were "jumped", [colors]?

In the first pix, red lead connected to black/yellow, w/green shrink tubing...

Where did the red lead go?

Black/yellow is ign. power, [hot in run and start] do you still have power on that lead?

In the second pix, it is hard to tell exactly what I am looking at, out of focus and a big thumb in the way.

Kind of looks like a thicker red lead is connected to a thinner black/yellow, w/red electrical tape, a thicker black/yellow, [maybe yellow/black] with some red tape on it, but that;s all I can make out. 94

 

so im drunk this moment but here is my diagnosis cuz i did this drunk msd dizzy swaped to stock dizzy aparently msd diz can make ur ecu not show up

the two wires in the two pics were conected i disconcted them the and no more 7.5 fuse blow out so now im dealing with reg swap stuff mising clamp leaking frum missing clamp on coolant hose coolant fan not working reg shinizzle but the point is is the car starts and im on with my life thank g.o.d.

 

k so now wiring isue has moved to interior cluster light backup liughts turn signals wich might be caused by the emergeny button not being plugged in ill check and get back

 

by the way the truck is unessisarily badd as

 

mind u the previous posts i was really drunk i fixed the spark isue fixed the blinker isue now im getting a dim clock and no cluster back light when i turn my head lights on i will be re posting this soon when all is finished with all i had how i fixed them things i replaced and sum pics

 

You still sound drunk. Get some help. 12 steps. You should never work on nor drive your car while impaired.

 

thank you fcm i think you are one of the most helpfull people on here

 

so were back to square 1 as the 7.5 fuse is lowing out again

 

Exactly what fuse box and fuse location is that 7.5A fuse in, take a pic? 94

 

when i unplug this plug its not bowing stupid drunk me hardwired the fan in while it was still conected to the harness