I did a search under "engine assembly: etc and got nothing.

Here is the deal:

I have a block, sleeved, bored to 84mm READY to be assembled

I have the OEM Crank - balanced, polished, etc.

I have CP 84mm pistons mated to crower rods.

I have or have access to most tools.

Ok, now the good stuff.

When putting the rings on the piston - I know to file the ring gap and i have read not to have the gaps in the same place (kinda obvious). I know to use a ring compressor and a rubber mallet with some pursuasion to get it into the cylinder.

I know i put the crank in first. Then the rod/piston assembly, in order of piston # i would guess 1-4.

I remember someone once telling me you should put in one piston/rod - rotate crank a full revolution - install second piston - rotate crank a revolution - so on.
Any thoughts on that?

Crank bearings - can i use stock bearings with having my crank done? Is ACL a better route. Any secrets to putting these in?

I have a nice digital scale and was going to weight each assembly to make sure there all the same. Pointless i guess, but fun!

Anything i am missing in this? I bought a nice-er torque wrench for this, figure i will take it slow and triple check all clearences etc.

If any experianced builders want to throw out a pointer or five...GO for it!

Thanks guys-

 

I am building a b-series right now. When you go to gap the 2nd ring on the pistons go very slowly, it only takes a few seconds to take off a lot of material. however, the top ring takes quite some time just to get a little material. Unfortunately i learned this the hard way. Tunerschoice.com has a great deal on ACL's and they are good bearings. Mine came out to all be in perfect clearance. good luck.

 

Cool, i just wasn't sure if there was an "secrets" to putting it all together.

 

well there is some secrets, my experience isn't thorough enough to give too many tips. Go to theoldone.com and read some of those tech articles. Also check out big teggies post about his ls/vtec. good luck. The all motor forum has some good info.

 

clean everything .. spray with brake cleaner ... then wd40, don;t touch bearings with fingers cause you fingers are not clean enough ... don;t wipe with rags (they leave lint) ... blow up with air gun all oil ports ... keep tight main clearances on the 1 and 5 and 3-4-5 can be less clearance.
oil up rings and cylinder walls and wristpins including the inside of piston where wristpins are inserted. ensure all wristpin locks are secure, you should not be able to press out pin with your finger when locks are secure ... finally put some thick oil inside the oil pump pickup before flipping block over ...

good luck
greg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... keep tight main clearances on the 1 and 5 and 3-4-5 can be less clearance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You said 5 twice - confused me at first.

When you say thick oil....straight 30? I am guessing this is for the initial start?

Not questioning you, just like to understand why i am doing something

Thanks for your help! This will be fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caspers hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You said 5 twice - confused me at first.

When you say thick oil....straight 30? I am guessing this is for the initial start?

Not questioning you, just like to understand why i am doing something

Thanks for your help! This will be fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry 3 middles are 2-3-4
no thick oil that sticks, gearoil 80w ... 30w will just leak back down into empty pan ... 80w will stick inside the oilpump and pickup

 

1 thing, you must make sure your cylinder walls are clean.
Use some paper towles and wipe the cylinders down with
lacquer thinner first then Automatic Transmission Fluid.
The Lacquer thinner cleans the cylinders while the ATF
pulls honing grit and debris out of the cross-hatch.
Alternate until cylinders are completely clean. Then coat
with WD40 or motor oil. Hope this helps.

 

good thread.

any reccomendations on what rags(lint free) to buy,

also what to use to coat bearing ect... brands, any specific info on what materials to gather would be very helpful.

 

I used Bounty

 

To coat the bearings I use Clevite Bearing Guard if I can get my hands on it.
If I can't get that I use Childs&Albert Assembly Lube.
As for rags I use any paper towles I can get my hands on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caspers hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember someone once telling me you should put in one piston/rod - rotate crank a full revolution - install second piston - rotate crank a revolution - so on.
Any thoughts on that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that will help you know if any bearing is out of spec, meaning, if you put it in and try to rotate the crank and is hard means the bearings are too tight, etc...

 

not to thread jack but.... i installed my crank yesterday and the manual says to turn it over a few times by hand. It turns over hard, are you just supposed to be able to turn it over by hand literally or, like put a bolt in the end and turn it over with a ratchet?

 

are the rods and pistons attached?

did you check clearances?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=991796

check out this thread its pretty informative should help you out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are the rods and pistons attached?

did you check clearances?</TD></TR></TABLE>
plasitgauged perfect and no piston/rods attached, just the crank in. Its hard to get turning, but once it starts is goes smoothly, just the initial start of the rotation is very tuff

 

hmm, this is hard to judge by word like tough. But i will say with my torque wrench it wouldn't register and my torque wrench stops at 5 ft. lbs. So try torquing and see what kind of reading you get. I believe it shouldn't be anymore than 10 ft lbs. for break away torque.

 

once you think your walls are as clean as they can be take a paper towel and spray wd40 on it ,then wipe the wall with it and look at the paper towel if it has gray **** on it its not perfectly clean, wich will cause your rings to wear faster, hot water with cleaner in it is the only way I have got all the honning stone grit out of the cross hatch never tried laquer thinner but its a good Idea ( and I'd try it )