Hey guys/Gals....

One day i was driving home, and my outer CV Joint just snaps out of place, the bearings just separated. So i replaced the cv joint and attempted to start the motor. Wont turn over. The motor haven't enough compression to start..

The timing had jumped. Set back the timing and started up the car. Started. Now heres the sweet part.... I just don't get a steady idle. My fuel gauge also fluctuates with the erratic idle.


I tryed a working ICAV, Cleaned Tb/Intake Manifold. Cleaned Gas Tank, Blew out Fuel Lines, Changed Fuel Filter, New jvc plug Wires.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

wait, the static timing jumped, like, the timing between the bottom end and head (timing belt jumped)?

if that is the case, then you most than likely have smacked up a few valves and the engine has poor and inconsistent vacuum.

 

if the timing jumped bad enough you may have bent your valves and that's why it won't idle. we have interferance engines so if they come too far out of time we're f*cked.

 

thats the thing, car has alot of power still.... did not notice any power loss?

 

i also want to know what would of caused my timing to jump? something with the cv joint breaking?

 

so the timing belt did jump...

could have been alot of things w/ coincidence; as far as the axle breaking while that happened, i can't imagine that would cause it because there is a differential in play there, but i guess if you had a spool and one axle stopped suddenly then started back up after breaking, and you had a loose tbelt or weak tensioner, it could jump.

when you free rev it, does it sound like it's got a bit of a miss, like a subaru with an exhaust? id do a compression test on it and see if you see anything since that is the easiest check.

 

Thanks for the reply,

No it has alot of power, Also dosent sound like a Subaru or that kind of miss.

Did a compression test, i think 180 across the board.

 

hey sounds like some bent valves. i had that before except my t-belt snaped on the high way.

 

Could a blown head gasket cause this?

 

yes. maybe do a leakdown test.

the reason it could cause this is because under high vacuum, it could be pulling coolant into the combustion chamber and quenching the spark intermittently.

 

thanks bro!

 

since i did a compression test 180 180 180 180.... my valves should be good and my head gasket? what do you think?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since i did a compression test 180 180 180 180.... my valves should be good and my head gasket? what do you think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

With compression readings like that, your valves and head gasket are good.

Try bypassing your coolant lines on the throttle body and the IACV all together. Search for throttle body coolant bypass in the forums. its not too difficult and it usually cures idle issues. If not, vacuum hoses are next to check.

 

coolant lines on the throttle body have been bypassed long time...


coolant lines still in the iacv..... should i bypass those as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
coolant lines still in the iacv..... should i bypass those as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

 

Ok i have bypassed both coolant lines running thru the IACV and Where the fitv is supposed to be.... i dont have a fitv.

I still have the surging idle, what else can i check

 

Also i dont think i have any vaccum lines unplugged because if i put my hand and cover the TB, the engine cuts off

 

For reference, what motor do you exactly have?

And how exactly did you bypass the coolant lines running through the IACV and Throttle body? If you did bypass the coolant lines correctly, you should have one hose that goes from the outlet in the block to the valve nipple around the head...correct?

As far as vaccuum lines, I didn't say they needed to be plugged. You should also look for leaks.

one more thing - Are you positive you have the timing on the car dead on?

 

check the rubber o-ring gasket that seals the IACV to the manifold. mine was pressed down too much and cause a vac leak. little rtv will seal it right up.

 

from the back of the block has a nipple sticking out, i joined that hose to the head.
also this is a b16a motor.


Since i removed the coolant lines from the iacv the idle seems to have gotten more agressive, it jumps from idle - 1500 rpm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Iceman05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the rubber o-ring gasket that seals the IACV to the manifold. mine was pressed down too much and cause a vac leak. little rtv will seal it right up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used some silicone around the o-ring.
still fluctuates

 

i would just flush the coolant system. When my car had a crazy idle i just flushed the coolant system, and as i was filling the car back up with coolant the revs just automaticly went to regular. Try that.

 

ok now i can post since h-t seems to be back to normal...

OP, did you try to simply unplug the iacv plug? what happens when you do that, does it still lope/surge? it should idle really low, but steady at that point, somewhere around 500 rpm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok now i can post since h-t seems to be back to normal...

OP, did you try to simply unplug the iacv plug? what happens when you do that, does it still lope/surge? it should idle really low, but steady at that point, somewhere around 500 rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

With the iacv unplugged, it still surges.
revs dont hold steady since i bypassed the coolant lines, it has been a bit worse.

 

SOMEONE help me so i can go BOOST!