BAd hesitation
my civic with a jdm gsr swap has aproblem. When I first start the car up and its cold I can drive for about 5-10 minutes till the car gets really warm then the car just really starts to hesitate. I mean when I push on the gas the car just doesn't want o go. It feels like I am pulling a semi behind me. It only happens after the car warms up. I searched and really didn't find anyone with the same problem.
It really starts through the whole rpm range,it use to start at 3k rpms. it does it under normal and hard acceleration, the car idles normal. I can rev it and it revs normal. No pop at all. It only does this when It warms completely up it will drive normal for like 5-10 minutes.
Hesitation is somewhat difficult to diagnose.
1. is your CEL on. If so, check for codes.
2. Next have a look under the hood for loose connections, bad wires, bad or disconnected hoses. Replace or fix as needed
3. How are your sparkplugs? properly gapped? dirty? etc...
4. I have seen where plug wires, to close to each other would arc between them... Maybe a possibility.
5. How are the injectors. Possibly clean them with cleaner poured in the tank.
6. Is it possible that you would have water in the tank. Possibly bad fuel.
7. Maybe a faulty TPS. Check with an multimeter. Turn ignition on and take reading, move throttle and check, should see the volts moving in a steady stream.
8. CHeck connections to the coil, and test coil
9. Bad HT leads
fs
Modified by filthy_shovel at 4:15 PM 3/12/2004
1. is your CEL on. If so, check for codes.
2. Next have a look under the hood for loose connections, bad wires, bad or disconnected hoses. Replace or fix as needed
3. How are your sparkplugs? properly gapped? dirty? etc...
4. I have seen where plug wires, to close to each other would arc between them... Maybe a possibility.
5. How are the injectors. Possibly clean them with cleaner poured in the tank.
6. Is it possible that you would have water in the tank. Possibly bad fuel.
7. Maybe a faulty TPS. Check with an multimeter. Turn ignition on and take reading, move throttle and check, should see the volts moving in a steady stream.
8. CHeck connections to the coil, and test coil
9. Bad HT leads
fs
Modified by filthy_shovel at 4:15 PM 3/12/2004
i have done all of that except check the tps but what about the o2 sensor?? could it be possible its going bad with out throwing a light?? i have no check engine light yet.
Yes the O2 sensor can be going bad and causing the hesitation.
Hesitation is usually an indication that you are not receiving enough fuel. Now, this does not indicate a no fuel situation. So the O2 is a possibility.
To test the 02 sensor
1. check all wiring and connections from and to o2 sensor.
2. the engine must be at operating temperature.
3. Tap into the signal wire.
4. then hold the engine at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm for at least a minute
(this step is important with unheated specimens -- oxygen sensors don't produce voltage until they hit 600 deg. F.
Let it come down to idle, and you should see a rapidly changing reading, typically between 100 and 900 mV.
No voltage, a steady reading, or slow switching (a common rule of thumb is eight trips across the lean/rich line in 10 seconds) means the sensor is probably the cause.
Now this may be hard to follow with a digital multimeter, but do it a couple of times to make sure, or get an analog meter.
fs
Hesitation is usually an indication that you are not receiving enough fuel. Now, this does not indicate a no fuel situation. So the O2 is a possibility.
To test the 02 sensor
1. check all wiring and connections from and to o2 sensor.
2. the engine must be at operating temperature.
3. Tap into the signal wire.
4. then hold the engine at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm for at least a minute
(this step is important with unheated specimens -- oxygen sensors don't produce voltage until they hit 600 deg. F.
Let it come down to idle, and you should see a rapidly changing reading, typically between 100 and 900 mV.
No voltage, a steady reading, or slow switching (a common rule of thumb is eight trips across the lean/rich line in 10 seconds) means the sensor is probably the cause.
Now this may be hard to follow with a digital multimeter, but do it a couple of times to make sure, or get an analog meter.
fs
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by primo8998 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the valve lash to tight?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should not be that at all. Valve don't de-adjust themselves overnight. If the valves were to tight, then you would most probably see hard starting and idling issues.
fs
Should not be that at all. Valve don't de-adjust themselves overnight. If the valves were to tight, then you would most probably see hard starting and idling issues.
fs
No if he did adjust the valves say to tight. Heat expands, it would have a bad hesitation or extreme miss. I was just wondering if he has done one recently.
Let us know what the problem was when you fix it. I have a 95 integra ls turbo and my car is doing that exact same thing. It too only does it when it is warmed up, it studders at about 2k to 2.5k rpms and my car also idles fine. Also if I rev it it will rev fine, but when I drive it, thats where the problem starts. If you fix it let me know because my car has been doing this for a few weeks now and I just want to drive it already. thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by primo8998 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No if he did adjust the valves say to tight. Heat expands, it would have a bad hesitation or extreme miss. I was just wondering if he has done one recently. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true.
There is a similar problem that happens w/ hondas that is caused from a bad knock sensor.
Not true.
There is a similar problem that happens w/ hondas that is caused from a bad knock sensor.
Yeah... tell us if you find something... I have the same problem as you !! It's very boring ! Me I changed Fuel filter, spark plug and wire, cap/rotor and I also try to put some injector cleaner but no success
Idle is great ..its when I run with the car after warm-up ! It seems that the throttle response is very bad when the problem appear. And when I climb some uphill road, the engine really need help to climb it !!
No check engine light ...
My car has now 70 000 KM. When I bought it, it has 37 000KM and sometimes, my car was doing that also.
Idle is great ..its when I run with the car after warm-up ! It seems that the throttle response is very bad when the problem appear. And when I climb some uphill road, the engine really need help to climb it !!
No check engine light ...My car has now 70 000 KM. When I bought it, it has 37 000KM and sometimes, my car was doing that also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-Vic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem, once warmed up it would bog like mad. What I figured out it was, was my timing. I advanced it a bit and now its as quick as can be.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine ended up being the same thing
Mine ended up being the same thing
Mine's doin the same thing still. I guess i should look at advancing the timing, although I did just get my timing belt replaced and that didnt answer the problem either.
I've got a similar problem I can't figure out. One day after a car wash, car started hesitating/surging. So ignition right? Nope. New distributor, wires, and plugs. Advanced timing 1 degree. Added some Techron. New fuel filter. Still I have the surging. It does this b/t 2000-2800, and is fine once I climb over ~3100. I get great gas mileage (96 HX) and it runs fine other than this. It only will do this upon startup--once I drive around a bit it won't do it.
Anyone?? I'm lost.
Anyone?? I'm lost.
MIne was doing that for a while and it turned out to be my entire distributor assembly. Once I replaced that, new wires and plugs, it ran like a champ
Modified by 8000KReV at 9:22 PM 4/11/2004
Modified by 8000KReV at 9:22 PM 4/11/2004
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