OK I finished it and it is still leaking oil. The oil is ONLY on the distributor side of the engine. It is going down the tranny and back of the motor. I did everything correctly. I made sure it was all straight and I did the torque on the ARP studs in three steps. 22-44-65. The head was perfectly straight and the block has .002 warpage. The service limit which means it will leak is .004. I did everything as instructed and it is still leaking. I used a B20 head gasket and removed the copper rings and enlarged the dowels. I don't know what to do now.

 

i got the same problem....check your vtec pump. In fact, i have to remove the filter inside it to make the leaking stop.

 

where exactly is leaking from. is the distrubutor, headgasket, vtec solenoid?
if it's the dizzy did you get a vtec dizzy or just cut one leg off of a nonvtec dizzy?
if it's the vtec solenoid did you make sure that the solenoid gasket is in good condition and sitting properly in it's groove.

 

it sounds like the vtec oil passage is leaking, u did close it off

 

Yes, the oil passage was tapped the used a 1/8NPT fitting with threadlocker on it, it's not leaking. This is the 2nd head gasket used. The first gasket was the GE modified one and that sucked. The oil leak seems to have let up somewhat. none of the seals seem to be leaking either.

 

get you an OEM headgasket, b20, and did you use arp head studs, did you put the poly lube on them and also, your torque settings are to low

they are 33-55-75, mine does not leak a drop, i dont know who told you 22-44-65, but that is not right...arp themselves told me 33-55-75...

u can remove the middle layer from a stock head gasket, i did on mine, just make sure you install it right, because we did the same to my friends b16a and he put one layer on backwards and had a MAJOR leak...so i hd to pull his head off and install it right for him...took me a matter of about 1 hr to pull the head off, and fix it, put it back on and start it up...this is a b16a as well

edit: also check the actually o-ring around your dizzy, i had a leak there for about 2 weeks and it was freaking me out, then i remembered i didnt change that, took it off, sure enough it was broke, replaced it, works like a champ now

 

Hmmm, I have ARP studs and the card in the box said torque to 70lbs with 10w 30 oil or 65lbs with ARP lube. I have an OEM b20 gasket on it. I used the GE first and it sucked ***. I may go back and check the torque on them. The sequence was right and I torqued them to the specs on the card. Maybe I should torque to 70-75?

 

check your oil feed line. could be loose or check the fitting itself where it goes into the head.

 

Not that. Already double checked and resealed it

 

i'm just saying...you have checked everything, my friends b16a was leaking and turned out it was stock head bolts, that we were torquing to 55ft lbs and it had a leak, we went ot 61 like the helms manual said...and it stopped, i'm just saying this is what i did and i have 0 oil leaks...

33-55-75 and see if you have any leaks...

 

What size is the oil feed line. Is it possible that you just have too much volume by using to big a feed line.

 

It's only a 6AN...I'm replacing the VTEC solenoid seal and distrib. O ring, I have a feeling the VTEC spool is leaking since it only leaks bad when VTEC kicks. Although you can't see any oil under, I felt some.

 

i've told you before try to check your VTEC pump or solenoid or whatever. mine also has leaking just like you.i tried everything to make it stop. i even considered to change the whole engine. At last i changed the solenoid seal and remove the filter inside the solenoid and it stop.i don't know exactly how but it stop. at least it works for me.try and let me know wether its working or not.

 

Didi you just remove the filter that's all? I was thinking about trying some Honda Bond on it for the mean time.