B20/Vtec
Are you talking about the machine work to put the VTEC head on the CRV block? If so, go to http://www.c-speedracing.com They have a step-by-step write-up on the procedures.....
Ju$+iN
Ju$+iN
why keep it stock if it is already apart. keep in mind dude, you are
re-engineering something essentially from what the intended use is.
I would build it for how you intend to drive it. Be prepared to brake
stuff if you rev that motor too high i.e. 7-8K daily driven. You can make
em sick... I would love to do the swap out once my block starts getting
weak. Keep in mind a change in displacement will make the manifolding
needs different, flow characteristics of the head different and the computer
will need a stand alone or hondata to get the most from the motor.
dont expect plug and play...
re-engineering something essentially from what the intended use is.
I would build it for how you intend to drive it. Be prepared to brake
stuff if you rev that motor too high i.e. 7-8K daily driven. You can make
em sick... I would love to do the swap out once my block starts getting
weak. Keep in mind a change in displacement will make the manifolding
needs different, flow characteristics of the head different and the computer
will need a stand alone or hondata to get the most from the motor.
dont expect plug and play...
But why can't the CRVTEC rev higher than 8k? Is there something that can be done to increase the rev limit?
Once you do get into the high-end rpm range, will individual throttle bodies help even more?
I was looking at http://www.crvtec.com, and I couldn't find anything related to that.
Once you do get into the high-end rpm range, will individual throttle bodies help even more?
I was looking at http://www.crvtec.com, and I couldn't find anything related to that.
lots of issues you bring up:
you need to check the block at a machine shop as they are frequently out of round and an overbore .025 would be good
the rod angle ratio is bad compared to the b16 so less revability - balance and blueprint the bottom end with your parts for more revability...
you do not need to reconfigure the b16 head to the 84 or 84.5 mm of the block bore as has been discussed by tom fujita of portflow...
you need to check the block at a machine shop as they are frequently out of round and an overbore .025 would be good
the rod angle ratio is bad compared to the b16 so less revability - balance and blueprint the bottom end with your parts for more revability...
you do not need to reconfigure the b16 head to the 84 or 84.5 mm of the block bore as has been discussed by tom fujita of portflow...
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The rod stroke ratio of the B20 block is not optimal for sustained high rpm. The engine would prolly live a good life, but it would be more prone to cylinder wall damage or abnormal ring wear. Due to the design of the rod and crank, it would be recommended to put in a crank girdle (that requires some machining) but the girdle is not necessary to build a CRVtec. You will also need higher compression pistons to gain any power worth bragging about... other wise the low comp B20 pistons in the setup will yeild less than stellar power figures. Any piston that would put you over 10.0:1 would be great.
So if i was to build my CRVtec and rev it no higher then 7800 on a regular basis, the motor should be o.k right? Thats after i get it professionally built with the right parts. Also would i have have to change the piston rings on a more regular basis??
Typically, a poor R/S ratio would dictate that you would need to replace your rings more frequently than the stock B20. If you keep the rev limit at the stock B20 limit, you will have no problems at all. Shifting at 7800 is getting up there, but if the motor was done correctly, it should be ok. OH, BTW, you will need to use ARP rod bolts on the rods regardless. If you don't, you WILL break something.
Thanks for the info, I'm getting my motor done with the block honed and bored, Je High Comp Pistons, Eagle Rods, and getting some head work done. You think 7800 rpm would be o.k?
I am not definite if the B20 is different, but installing a crank girdle would be good. Like the GSR or the Z10 unit... but I think they both need some minor machine work. Shouldn't cost too much tho.
That would make the bottom end free of problems.
That would make the bottom end free of problems.
But with custom rods for a better ratio, would I be able to rev higher then? I guess around 7.8k is really good enough, though.
I was thinking of a high revving(around 10K rpm) B16a as an alternative, but then you need the followers and upgraded valve springs. But the B20 hybrid is very unique, and has a lot more useable power and torque.
I must confess I don't even own a Honda.
But one of my friends has a '95 Civic coupe. He's trying to decide between a turbo and an engine swap. I'm trying to steer him towards the swap.
Right now, I'm just trying to do some engine research for something I'm working on. Thanks for your help.
I was thinking of a high revving(around 10K rpm) B16a as an alternative, but then you need the followers and upgraded valve springs. But the B20 hybrid is very unique, and has a lot more useable power and torque.
I must confess I don't even own a Honda.
But one of my friends has a '95 Civic coupe. He's trying to decide between a turbo and an engine swap. I'm trying to steer him towards the swap. Right now, I'm just trying to do some engine research for something I'm working on. Thanks for your help.
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