I've got a bare b20 block with a b16a2 head.. my goal is to attain 200+ whp so obviously cams (jun stage 3) & pistons (je 11.5) & other internals will be bought.. but im having trouble figuring out what the next step i should take is.. sleeve the block now then internals?? dont sleeve block at all?? internals first?? If any one could be of help that would be great.. It's my first B20 so anybody with experience im gonna need some help

Thanks

 

do you want all-motor, nitrous, turbo??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evilhatch2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you want all-motor, nitrous, turbo??</TD></TR></TABLE>


it doesn't matter either way he's gonna have to sleeve the block for security cause the cylinder walls are really weak.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phatch99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


it doesn't matter either way he's gonna have to sleeve the block for security cause the cylinder walls are really weak. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You obviosly have never handled a B20 before. I made 330whp on a b20 block, with 9:1 pistons, ported head, and a shot of 175hp., (using a Gsr-plate system). and i DIDN'T SLEEVE MY BLOCK ohoh .

 

It just depends what you want.

You could just throw on a set of Forged pistons with a compression of 12:1, send the head to Alaniz head technologies to get ported, and you'll be hitting minimum 200whp. Without sleeving those weaks *** sleeves

 

you could save the sleeve money, and buy a set of perfomance rods, and get the best port and polish.

 

Thanks but eventually I am goin to have to send my block out to get sleeved.. correct?? I have Jun stage 3 shafts w/ cam gears on the way and je 11:5 pistons.. considering I dun want it to blow if I rev passed 7000.. which is another question.. Ive been gettin mixed messages about the limitations what is a good RPM to rev until.. is it possible with my set up to go passed 7K.. maybe 7600??

 

.. and I'm prolly gonna have to sleeve it if my goal is 7600.. mayb

 

people will talk out of their *** without knowing what's up. The reason why I was able to rev up to 8500 RPM's on my daily driven B20 nitrous was because I put a set of eagle Rods in the mix and had RS MAchines balance my crank to 10,000RPM's. On races I rev my **** to 9000. If you have any doubts then you shouldn't even start this project. all it's going to lead to is disater and your gonna end up blaming the B20 for it. but seriouusly, call RS MACHINES and talk to them. They always give advice.

Forget RPM's, what are your horsepower goals? Because I have seen a lot of B20's put well over 200whp without needing new sleeves. Don't be scared and go for it. (with the eagle rods).

 

if you are going to sleeve it i would recomend you do that first because the process will take awhile, while you are waiting you could save up for your other parts.

 

how much did u spend on balancing your crank.. and is it that effective??

 

just have your engine sleeved and blue printed at golden eagle for close to 900 dollars. I think camp1320.com is running a deal on it.

 

balanced and blueprint internals at any local machine shop should be around $200. check out your local drag strip and talk to the racers there. ask them what machine shop they go through and where the best mechanics are. if you don't meet any mentors, at least you'll get a little information. you might not be surprised how much some people just want to talk about cars considering this damn forum.

i would still recommend forged rods and ARP bolts. heat loves cast internals and detonation follows suit.


Modified by censurebush at 10:40 AM 3/17/2005

 

im with him b20 sleeves are taken to be to weak- boost and high revs and they will still with stand if built right - just like every one saying ls vtek dosnt last b.s quality in the build is every thing ! use the right parts

 

okay thanks guys.. hows my set up sound..

je 11:5 pistons
jun type 3 camshafts
jun cam gears
eagle rods
skunk 2 valve train (retainers and springs)
blueprint and balance crank

 

why 11:5? Every thing else makes sense - you dont need as much compression with the displacement of the b20 to create the same hp as persay b16 block +

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperImport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay thanks guys.. hows my set up sound..

je 11:5 pistons
jun type 3 camshafts
jun cam gears
eagle rods
skunk 2 valve train (retainers and springs)blueprint and balance crank
</TD></TR></TABLE>
better off going with the JUN springs or perhaps a RM, Omni, Crower, Supertech, portflow, JG, ferrea.
there just seems to be an abundance of horror stories concerning skunk2 valvesprings
I believe the issue with those is the seat pressure, way too high

 

Thanks for the imput may be better off too because the skunk 2's are a little mroe expensive.. how bout IB spec (JG) springs and retainers and supertech valves.. foun a package for $500 shipped.. not bad hmmm

 

My pistons are also 84mm.. u thank taht will be a major problem if i wanna bore out the block to 84.5.. or do you even think 84.5 bored out block would be necessary??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperImport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My pistons are also 84mm.. u thank taht will be a major problem if i wanna bore out the block to 84.5.. or do you even think 84.5 bored out block would be necessary??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uhhh....yeah 84mm slugs in a 84.5mm bore would be a problem, mainly the fact that your rings wont seal a zip lock, just make sure whoever does your bore and hone has your pistons when they do so.