i would like to know which motor is better to go with for NA , most power for your money. Which motor has more potential in the long run. Any opinion u guys.... thanks

 

Well what are your goals?See if you plan on resleeving and replacing everything then why spend your money on a type motor.Just let us know your goals and how much money ya got.

 

The c5 is a better/ more powerful motor stock. If you get the c1 to put out the same power as the c5, it will not last nearly as long. However, if you plan to build the motors, it's useless/ stupid to get the c5.

 

I agree with the guys. It depends what your goals are. If you are going to put just boltons, then the c5 is more powerful but if you are planning to go all out, the B18C is your best bet. The C5 you are paying for better pistons, etc but if they will be replaced anyways, there is no point.

 

well i am planning, to change intake mani, pistons, cams slowly later on. i will be building it up slowly cuz of money issue. well tell me what u think thanks!

 

oh and by the way , hey lsos, what do you mean when u said "If you get the c1 to put out the same power as the c5, it will not last nearly as long"

 

Well, its really up tp you. I would go with the B18c. If you want the power now, then C5 is your engine. If you don´t mind waiting and saving the extra cash, then the B18C is the right one. I was on your same position as you can see on my sig and decided to buy the B18C since I was going to dump the pistons and other stuff that is actually what makes the C5 more expensive.

Jay

 

What I mean is that there's more to an engine than how much power it puts out.

Asking an engine to make more torque or rev higher will impart higher stresses on it which will no doubt affect its life. Half the stuff they did to the Type R engine is simply in the name of making it last: coated pistons, balanced crank, lighter valves, dual springs, lighter/ stronger rods....they don't really do much for the power output of the engine. These are all there so the engine can last for a long time at only 500rpms more.

You can rev a c1 to 8500rpms too, but don't expect it to last as long without all these modifications.

If you're planning to change the intake manifold, cams, pistons...these are all what make the type R more expensive than the gsr, among other things. Like everybody here is saying, it's not really wise to spend extra money on things that you'll be tossing out later on....especially since the money saved on the c1 over the c5 could probably buy you all these things.

 

I'm building out a JDM R and tend to agree with the advice to stick with the C1 if you're going to end up replacing the things that make the C5/R unique.

They are:

Intake -- though you can get a B16 intake as they're real close, or aftermarket.

Heads -- though if you're going for serious headwork, you can get it back. The R heads have better springs, lighter valves, better cams, and mild port work. If you're going to do a serious build -- you'll replace the cam, springs, perhaps valves, and get the port work done by a professional shop. (DPR here)

TB -- C5/R is 62mm, the others are at least 2mm smaller. If you replace it (I'm using JG's new 65mm) or bore out your C1 unit you can take care of that matter.

Crank -- It is supposedly better balanced, but I *think* the C1 (GSR) has the same counterweights. LS (etc) blocks have cranks with different (fewer) counterweights -- so poorer balance at max RPM. Doesn't seem to bother the ls/vtec folks, tho.

Rods -- If you're replacing them, eventually, you're fine. Many build-ups will. The C1 rods are good, but not as finely balanced.

Pistons -- you're going to replace them anyway...

Block -- same, *but*, the engine/transmission brace is stouter on the C5/R. Minor thing.

The biggest advange of the C5/R in the short term is the TB/intake/head combo.

So, it just a decision of cash flow .vs. time to killer NA.

You can sell the old parts for good money, as R parts come dear, so if you go with the R now you can recover some of the extra expense later as you replace the original parts with aftermarket. I've sold my R rods, pistons, TB, springs, cams, ECU and subsidized the project that way (eBay).

Since it looks like you're just starting, depending on budget, don't forget to give some serious thought to the ls/vtec monsters (even b20 blocks). Those hosers are getting serious power NA (220+ to the wheels in some cases).

TIME is a factor, because the more complicated projects require longer 'scrounge time' as you hunt down all the bits and pieces you'll need... and there are plenty.

Have fun.

Mark

 

good advice.

 

If you have the money to buy a c5 just get the c1, and use the rest of the money to replace those parts with betters ones.Thats close to $1800 in saved money that can buy you a new mani cams pistons stuff like that.