what would u rather have in 91 integra ls?

 

b16a gets my vote, but im sure lots will vote for the b18b and tell you about putting a vtec head on it for an LS/VTEC setup. But you can also add a b18 longblock to a b16 head too to make it an LS/VTEC setup.

hope I could help a little!

mike

 

b16a easy swap least problems most reliable

 

Hey, I've seen a hatch with a b16a go head to head with a hatch with a b18b, and the b18b won by about 2 car lengths on a 1/4 mile strip. The b18b was also bone stock, I don't know about the b16. So the b18 gets my vote. But it is really a win/win situation, because both you can convert to ls/vtec, which would be a wise choice in the future.

 

I dunno, for racing, I would go with a b16, my friend had one in his 90 rs with intake and exhuast and ran a 15.1 at the track. For daily driven I would go with the b18b just because of the torque issue....

 

B18C5. Nuf said. But I would take the B18b over the B16, just cause I think you have easier and more options with the b18

 

oh i forgot to add to my earlier post that I would only choose the b16 for race IF you are on a budget, but if you have some money, go with a b18c

 

B18B I personally hate the B16 because of that lack of torque... Now I would take the B16 if you are planning on throwing a deck plate on it and stroking it up a little... The B18B will be perfectly fine as a straight LS or even later on down the road you could build a little LSVTEC or something... If money allows i would just stick with a straight B18C1.. It has the best of both worlds... ie R/S between the B16A and the B18B, internal oil feed, and girdle... If you wanna build it then just sleeve it up to say 85mm with high compression pistons.. That's just my $0.02... Good Luck

 

Well, unlike anyone else here, I have had both motors simultaneously in two different cars of about the same weight. My finding was that the B18B was a pig compared to the B16A. Now alot of people complain that the B16A lacks torque. But let's face it, the B18B is not really any more impressive. Its displacement advantage over the B16A is a mere 12.5% - miniscule by any standard. Peak torque is only 16ft-lb better (111ft-lb compared 127ft-lb). And contrary to popular belief, the B16A actually produces a greater percentage of peak torque over a wide RPM range. Furthermore, the taller gearing of the LS transmission eats up most to all of the torque advantage of the B18B (and due to high freeway RPMs, a B16A transmission is unsuitable for use in a daily driven B18B swap). In fact, in fifth gear, a B18B with an LS transmission feels MUCH more sluggish than a B16A/S1. Hills that the B16A climbed easily in fifth required a downshift with the LS. And even off the line in first (where the gearing difference is much less and the B18B has the advantage), the difference was not as great as you might think. So go B16A. Or, if you want torque, go B20.

As for B18B cars beating B16A cars, this might be the case in some circumstances. If the B18B car has the better driver, better suspension, better rubber, and/or is lighter, it could very well happen. But if you consider two very equal cars with the SAME driver, the B18B will be slower. My timeslips speak for themselves: the B18B was typically from .4-.5 seconds and 4-5MPH slower in the quarter mile. Now if we are talking about an LS-VTEC, things would obviously be quite different between the two. But a straight B18B is nothing to write home about.


[Modified by StorminMatt, 2:49 AM 1/7/2003]

 

Yea but is the motor going to be stock forever??? I hope not.... Everyone wants their car too be faster over time.... The B18B is going to have more potential later on down the road... Yea it sucks when it's a straight LS but I would rather have a little bit of bottom end and no VTEC as apose to having a motor that only has high strung top end power... That's why I say if money allows go with a B18C... It's got the perfect combination of bottom end with top end power... Of course it going to take a little to build the LS to an LSVTEC... tranny swapping most likely to a Y1 or YS1, a VTEC head, machine work if you decide to go overbore which I would do when installing new pistons... Some PCT slugs would do nicely, a PR3 or PW0 ECU... and of course the TUNING... That's just my opinion, but i would rather work with a motor that has more potential on down the road... Peace