B16a tranny problem...helppppp!!
sometimes my gears wont go in. it goes in perfectly when the car is off. I got stuck at the red light many times because I cant go into first gear. If I try to shove it into first, the gears grind and the car stalls. If I turn off the car and then put it into first and then start the car, my car will shake violently and then stall. Tonight it got worst. I took it to about 4k rpm and shifted into 2nd gear and suddenly my clutch felt mushy (like no longer stiff). I have oem clutch btw. Now everytime I shift, the cluth feels like it pops and the car jolt a bit. My clutch is now completely mushy feeling and cannot get it into gear. After leaving my car alone for a while, the clutch seems to come back to normal stiffness but then it gets mushy feeling again after driving. Ive replaced my master cylinder with another used lower mileage one. I'm thinking about replacing the slave cyclinder as well. Prior to the mushy clutch tonight, the mechanic said it wasnt my clutch. He said it could be my hydrolic system or transmission cable. Can someone please help me! Its getting damn frustrating.
who is this mechanic that can't figure out if you have a cable or hydraulic clutch?
you probably have something going on with the pressure plate. loose bolts most likely.
you probably have something going on with the pressure plate. loose bolts most likely.
its hydro for sure....the mechanic was a retard and didnt pop my hood to inspect. I had another mechanic tell me today that it probably isnt my clutch. So far my clutch hasnt slipped but my car does feel underpowered since this problem all started. thanks for your guys help...anyone else have a suggestion on what the problem might be?
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Clutch system problem. Absolutely. Primary tell-tale sign is that you can't place it in 1st while it's running, but can start the car in 1st and it stalls.
You don't even have transmission cables, so your mechanic might be retarded,... and you should probably find a new one.
EDIT: What reasons did the 2nd mechanic give for why he didn't feel it was clutch related?
You don't even have transmission cables, so your mechanic might be retarded,... and you should probably find a new one.
EDIT: What reasons did the 2nd mechanic give for why he didn't feel it was clutch related?
Clutch system problem. Absolutely. Primary tell-tale sign is that you can't place it in 1st while it's running, but can start the car in 1st and it stalls.
You don't even have transmission cables, so your mechanic might be retarded,... and you should probably find a new one.
EDIT: What reasons did the 2nd mechanic give for why he didn't feel it was clutch related?
You don't even have transmission cables, so your mechanic might be retarded,... and you should probably find a new one.
EDIT: What reasons did the 2nd mechanic give for why he didn't feel it was clutch related?
he said he doesnt feel the clutch slipping. He said the clutch grabs but the tranny has a problem going into gear.
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What it sounds like to me is that the pressure plate is not disengaging fully. If its still grabbing the disc enough while the peddle all the way down, the gears will be turning and you wont be able to go into gear. When the motor is off, the motor cant spin the shaft and it will all go into gear. Then when you start it back up and if the pressuer plate is grabbing the disc just enough while in gear, it will shake and stall. You cannot start a car in gear with the clutch engaged. It will do that. And when you try to shift into second the disc still grabbing would make it difficult to sift. It would also explain any grinds too.
Check the fork, release bearing and all the lines. Make sure the fork is not bent and seated on the pivot ball and make sure the release bearing is in good shape and seated on the fork properly. Blead the system too. If there is air it will feel mushy and not release properly. I also recemend getting a stainless steel braided clutch line too. That way you eliminate the rubber parts that can expand. Check all connections and lines for leaks.
Check the fork, release bearing and all the lines. Make sure the fork is not bent and seated on the pivot ball and make sure the release bearing is in good shape and seated on the fork properly. Blead the system too. If there is air it will feel mushy and not release properly. I also recemend getting a stainless steel braided clutch line too. That way you eliminate the rubber parts that can expand. Check all connections and lines for leaks.
What it sounds like to me is that the pressure plate is not disengaging fully. If its still grabbing the disc enough while the peddle all the way down, the gears will be turning and you wont be able to go into gear. When the motor is off, the motor cant spin the shaft and it will all go into gear. Then when you start it back up and if the pressuer plate is grabbing the disc just enough while in gear, it will shake and stall. You cannot start a car in gear with the clutch engaged. It will do that. And when you try to shift into second the disc still grabbing would make it difficult to sift. It would also explain any grinds too.
Check the fork, release bearing and all the lines. Make sure the fork is not bent and seated on the pivot ball and make sure the release bearing is in good shape and seated on the fork properly. Blead the system too. If there is air it will feel mushy and not release properly. I also recemend getting a stainless steel braided clutch line too. That way you eliminate the rubber parts that can expand. Check all connections and lines for leaks.
Check the fork, release bearing and all the lines. Make sure the fork is not bent and seated on the pivot ball and make sure the release bearing is in good shape and seated on the fork properly. Blead the system too. If there is air it will feel mushy and not release properly. I also recemend getting a stainless steel braided clutch line too. That way you eliminate the rubber parts that can expand. Check all connections and lines for leaks.
thanks man. ur right about the rubber line. imma look into a steel braided clutch line. Ive replaced both the master and slave cylinder but the problem still exists. taking off the tranny tmr to inspect and ive also ordered a new exedy clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. i will update you guys on the progress tmr.
it sounds like the springs in the clutch disc hub are either worn or have completely come out. i bought a crx that wouldn't go into gear but when i did start it in gear it would stall. i dropped the tranny to inspect the clutch and the springs came out as soon as i removed the pressure plate. the clutch disc material was still good but still had to replace the disc because of the springs.
yes please post pictures of your work, im going to keep an eye on your thread just to put my .02¢ in when needed. im pretty sure honda-bull(or is it red bull? lmao) will be chiming in from time to time.
i had a guy with the same problem as you are experiencing. it ended up being the entire clutch setup. looked like some wanna be spec clutch kit and it was SEVERELY worn down. so we replaced it, re-bled the slave(s) and off it went!
i had a guy with the same problem as you are experiencing. it ended up being the entire clutch setup. looked like some wanna be spec clutch kit and it was SEVERELY worn down. so we replaced it, re-bled the slave(s) and off it went!
clutch disk was the problem. One of the 4 springs cracked into pieces and fell apart. So it wasnt the clutch hydrolic system (master and slave cylinder, clutch lines) nor pressure plate. There was also no meat left on the clutch disk and some burn marks on the pressure plate.


i knew it! that was my original thought(s) when you said you couldnt put it into gear when it was running. get the flywheel resurfaced and new clutch and your good to go.
hell, just for ***** and giggles, swap out the trans fluid for some honda mtf while ur at it and check the rear main seal and the seal(s) on the trans while your at it. wouldnt/couldnt hurt right?
hell, just for ***** and giggles, swap out the trans fluid for some honda mtf while ur at it and check the rear main seal and the seal(s) on the trans while your at it. wouldnt/couldnt hurt right?
i changed everything. got an exedy oem replacement clutch kit for $160. thought it was a good so why not do everything. the flywheel bolts were actually in perfect condition. what many ppl first told me was that it was my hydrolic system or pressure plate. turns out it was the clutch the whole time. i hope this thread helps everyone.
that clutch disc is worn down pretty good! the reason why your mechanic didn't suspect the clutch is because he prolly did a slip test and it passes because that spring that popped off was acting like an engaged clutch locking up the engine and trans! but good for you, i'm glad u got that all figured out! how's it running now?
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95hbMatt
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Jun 22, 2003 10:03 AM




