B16A timing Issue
Just dont know what to do at this point. Really do not want to disassemble once again. Not sure where to even go with this at the time. I keep thinking everything is ok, Last though is the dist. being 180 out. The marks were strait up i thought.
if it doesnt look like how it did before you took everything off then i assure you its not right. dont half *** and just redo it again until you get it right. timing takes alot of patience even for certified techs. just keep doing it and you'll get it right.
It appers to be correct. My markings. Just seems like I did the procedure wrong putting the intake side belt on than the exhaust. Been hearing its exhaust than intake. As far as i can see thats my main concern i think timings are all correct its just the fact that i put the belt on in that sequence and am thinking it sacraficed tension. never screwed with the dist. so confused why it is 180 out and wrong still to begin with
for the last time the distributor is not 180 degrees off. and on your pics your intake cam gear is not directly off which indicates it is a tooth or so off. re read what i told you to do on the first page and you'll be fine. seems like you give up easily so i suggest take a day or two off and then redo the procedure
When setting the timing, install the upper plastic timing cover and use it to line up the cam gears. The notches on them form a line that is parallel to the top of the upper timing cover.
LOL read the post rice boy before you make stupid useless comments just to jump up your number of posts. OP is making it very hard to understand what the heck he is doing wrong. he does not need to take off the cam caps to change his timing belt. if he would of aligned everything at TDC before taking off the old belt then nothing would be mis aligned. but even if he didn't he could still make sure everything is aligned even with the belt off by turning the crank pulley counter clockwise until it reaches TDC. with the belt off he should be able to turn the cam gears so that both are facing in the UP direction with a MM socket or wrench.
Still super confused about this. Re sealed head with new valvecover gasket. Hate to peel it all apart. Looks like its what im going to do tomorrow tho. Redo the whole thing. Not looking forward. Thought it was on correct. Did not turn anything 3 teeth. Did not take cams out or cam gear off to even see or have to deal with key. Loosened tensioner and attempted to put timing back on in sequence from w.e manual and what i found online. Pretty lame of me that i can not do this correct. Havent really given up yet just alot of time and work involved and these were "extra steps" i took before i am putting in car.
DOHC motors are difficult. Your just lucky the motor isnt in the car, makes it much harder.
How are you holding the cams in place at TDC? Especially the intake cam. It doesnt just hold itself there, it will always turn slightly due to spring tension. The way your supposed to do it is with 2 untapered punches. If you look at the top of the cam caps closest to the cam gears, youll notice 2 holes that go through to the cams. When both cams are at TDC, you will see 2 holes the same size as the ones in the caps that are a straight shot below the caps. If you get the correct size punches, your supposed to put them through the holes which holds the cams in place at TDC, making it easier to put on the timing belt. Im thinking this might be some of your problem. Also make sure the crank timing is correct with the cams. First time i did it, the cams were spot on TDC, but the crank was 1 tooth off. The car idled low, lacked power, and overheated.
Once you get everything good and the belt on, after you tension it, your supposed to rotate the motor over 2 revolutions to make sure the tension is equal all the way around. If its not, what i do is turn the motor over until the tension is loose on the side of the water pump, loosen, then retension the belt. That will usually create equal tension all the way around. If the tension is unequal, there's a big chance when the motor is running it will skip a tooth.
How are you holding the cams in place at TDC? Especially the intake cam. It doesnt just hold itself there, it will always turn slightly due to spring tension. The way your supposed to do it is with 2 untapered punches. If you look at the top of the cam caps closest to the cam gears, youll notice 2 holes that go through to the cams. When both cams are at TDC, you will see 2 holes the same size as the ones in the caps that are a straight shot below the caps. If you get the correct size punches, your supposed to put them through the holes which holds the cams in place at TDC, making it easier to put on the timing belt. Im thinking this might be some of your problem. Also make sure the crank timing is correct with the cams. First time i did it, the cams were spot on TDC, but the crank was 1 tooth off. The car idled low, lacked power, and overheated.
Once you get everything good and the belt on, after you tension it, your supposed to rotate the motor over 2 revolutions to make sure the tension is equal all the way around. If its not, what i do is turn the motor over until the tension is loose on the side of the water pump, loosen, then retension the belt. That will usually create equal tension all the way around. If the tension is unequal, there's a big chance when the motor is running it will skip a tooth.
DOHC motors are difficult. Your just lucky the motor isnt in the car, makes it much harder.
How are you holding the cams in place at TDC? Especially the intake cam. It doesnt just hold itself there, it will always turn slightly due to spring tension. The way your supposed to do it is with 2 untapered punches. If you look at the top of the cam caps closest to the cam gears, youll notice 2 holes that go through to the cams. When both cams are at TDC, you will see 2 holes the same size as the ones in the caps that are a straight shot below the caps. If you get the correct size punches, your supposed to put them through the holes which holds the cams in place at TDC, making it easier to put on the timing belt. Im thinking this might be some of your problem. Also make sure the crank timing is correct with the cams. First time i did it, the cams were spot on TDC, but the crank was 1 tooth off. The car idled low, lacked power, and overheated.
Once you get everything good and the belt on, after you tension it, your supposed to rotate the motor over 2 revolutions to make sure the tension is equal all the way around. If its not, what i do is turn the motor over until the tension is loose on the side of the water pump, loosen, then retension the belt. That will usually create equal tension all the way around. If the tension is unequal, there's a big chance when the motor is running it will skip a tooth.
How are you holding the cams in place at TDC? Especially the intake cam. It doesnt just hold itself there, it will always turn slightly due to spring tension. The way your supposed to do it is with 2 untapered punches. If you look at the top of the cam caps closest to the cam gears, youll notice 2 holes that go through to the cams. When both cams are at TDC, you will see 2 holes the same size as the ones in the caps that are a straight shot below the caps. If you get the correct size punches, your supposed to put them through the holes which holds the cams in place at TDC, making it easier to put on the timing belt. Im thinking this might be some of your problem. Also make sure the crank timing is correct with the cams. First time i did it, the cams were spot on TDC, but the crank was 1 tooth off. The car idled low, lacked power, and overheated.
Once you get everything good and the belt on, after you tension it, your supposed to rotate the motor over 2 revolutions to make sure the tension is equal all the way around. If its not, what i do is turn the motor over until the tension is loose on the side of the water pump, loosen, then retension the belt. That will usually create equal tension all the way around. If the tension is unequal, there's a big chance when the motor is running it will skip a tooth.
as for the distributor, you can worry about that after you're done with the timing belt. approach each problem one at a time and you'll often find that a solution for one problem solves other problems.
Everyone thanks for stickin with me. Im going to try it later. I did do the cam punch thing and insert pin in place. Cams were up in correct spots.. The only reason why im overthinking or over looking is becasue i do not want to get it in and have a more difficult time doing it. So i do have some what of a good oppertuinity to get it right when its out of the car. You just said in that message that you were 1 tooth off. Would make your car run noticable diffrent. Im looking for zero error. i rotated the engine 6 times around to complete its TCD markings. They reccomend rotating 6 times around twice. total of 12 revoloutions. Like i said no binding or hitting.
Everyone thanks for stickin with me. Im going to try it later. I did do the cam punch thing and insert pin in place. Cams were up in correct spots.. The only reason why im overthinking or over looking is becasue i do not want to get it in and have a more difficult time doing it. So i do have some what of a good oppertuinity to get it right when its out of the car. You just said in that message that you were 1 tooth off. Would make your car run noticable diffrent. Im looking for zero error. i rotated the engine 6 times around to complete its TCD markings. They reccomend rotating 6 times around twice. total of 12 revoloutions. Like i said no binding or hitting.
look your taking this to seriouse i know you dont want to do it again in the car or bend a valve or w/e my first time was the same i was taking a dump look on cylinder 1 closest to the timing belt take off the spark plug and stick a long screw driver in the thin so it lands on the piston now spin the crank till you reach tdc the screw driver should be all the way to the to if you use a flash ligth and piston#1 is at top and the crank pulley is at its timming mark line up the cams with the up arrows facing up and the little endentations on the cam gear all have to be horizontalwith the line of the valve cover all straigth no half way straigth line!!! and your distributer sould be on cyl#1 i think you put the the engine at tdc mark but piston #1 was at the bottom and distr firiring #3 re check see what you did wrong its not that hard since the motor is out wich is a breeze
May i ask what photo you are going by. Im not sure if i put too many pics up and your mistaken. Not sure if you think that the timing belt with the Blue color looks like its off. I put the blue one on and thought i was dead nutz. with the markings. I did put the old belt back on and it slipped. Thats the pic i got. went and re did the process today. Had a friend help me and he found my dist. was broke. I need a new dist. or the small clip piece Thing was way out and i never would have figured it out. I did not want to Mess with the dist to begin with. Thing was snapped on the inside to begin with and need a replacment once again. havent even got to run the thing yet.Everything seems to be on. Added new crank pulley. just need to get a souloution to the problem now (Dist)and im set-
Hey rice read the post. I already bought a brand new cap, and rotor. I need a distributor with just the components , metal thing, Igniter. i just bought a cap and rotor not know what the F was up with the Dist. And sure enough it was broken. I recieved the engine that way. I do not need a whole dist. With cap and rotor. Really just need small piece that goes into cam. Part is held on by a round clip, and a set-pin through center.
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