B16A on an Engine stand....how...?
i believe i have that same stand.
you will need to get bolts that match the threads of the block and that are long enough to go through the support holes. i personally used extra chassis bolts i had laying around for the top, and bought the bottom ones from a local hardware store. used washers too. also try putting the upper stand portion onto the block while it's not on the stand, that way there isn't as much of a chance to cross-thread the bolts. much easier to lay the block on the ground or workbench and attach the upper section via the 4 bolts, then slide it all onto the stand.
you will need to get bolts that match the threads of the block and that are long enough to go through the support holes. i personally used extra chassis bolts i had laying around for the top, and bought the bottom ones from a local hardware store. used washers too. also try putting the upper stand portion onto the block while it's not on the stand, that way there isn't as much of a chance to cross-thread the bolts. much easier to lay the block on the ground or workbench and attach the upper section via the 4 bolts, then slide it all onto the stand.
Last time I used an engine stand, we had to cut the fittings on the stand down about halfway because we couldn't find the proper length bolts. Just a suggestion.
Use M12x1.25 bolts for the two upper tranny holes and longer bolts/washers/nuts for the lower unthreaded holes. Take a measurement of the stand's finger lengths and buy a bolt that's long enough from the hardware store.
I also mount our engines the same way as Tbone has illustrated. It distributes the weight more evenly.
I also mount our engines the same way as Tbone has illustrated. It distributes the weight more evenly.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use M12x1.25 bolts for the two upper tranny holes and longer bolts/washers/nuts for the lower unthreaded holes. Take a measurement of the stand's finger lengths and buy a bolt that's long enough from the hardware store.
I also mount our engines the same way as Tbone has illustrated. It distributes the weight more evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's some good info. i also mount the block the same way as Tbone pictured.
works great. BTW, that's one clean block you got there!
I also mount our engines the same way as Tbone has illustrated. It distributes the weight more evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's some good info. i also mount the block the same way as Tbone pictured.
works great. BTW, that's one clean block you got there!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. BTW, that's one clean block you got there! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man , see my sig for the pics of my build.
. BTW, that's one clean block you got there! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man , see my sig for the pics of my build.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use M12x1.25 bolts for the two upper tranny holes and longer bolts/washers/nuts for the lower unthreaded holes. Take a measurement of the stand's finger lengths and buy a bolt that's long enough from the hardware store.
I also mount our engines the same way as Tbone has illustrated. It distributes the weight more evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info, saved me some writing. Instead of buying a bolt that is long enough though, I just bought a long bolt rod and cut it to lenght.
I also mount our engines the same way as Tbone has illustrated. It distributes the weight more evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info, saved me some writing. Instead of buying a bolt that is long enough though, I just bought a long bolt rod and cut it to lenght.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks man , see my sig for the pics of my build.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, nice looking motor. i saw those pics a little while back. i forgot that was your buildup. it's lookin real good.
so is it all together and running yet?
yeah, nice looking motor. i saw those pics a little while back. i forgot that was your buildup. it's lookin real good.
so is it all together and running yet?
I wasn't able to find bolts (M12x1.25) that were long enough and ended up buying a piece of threaded rod from McMasterCarr.
It wasn't cheap!
Wes
It wasn't cheap!
Wes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Front crossmember bolts off of 88-91civic/crx's work well.
You can see kinda how I mounted mine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like he also has the bottom of the blocks milled. All the studs are out and it has a fresh finish on it.
You can see kinda how I mounted mine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like he also has the bottom of the blocks milled. All the studs are out and it has a fresh finish on it.
if you're talking about Tbone's block in his pic, i believe it's a new Dart block.
that would explain why it's so clean. i was wondering how it was so clean myself til i checked one of his older posts about the buildup.
that would explain why it's so clean. i was wondering how it was so clean myself til i checked one of his older posts about the buildup.
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ALLS U NEED YO IS SUM 4 BIG DUDES N YER SET, U DONT EVEN NEED THAT SHIZNIT YO.
ok, on a serious note do wut the guy sed at top, use a workbench or sumthing of that sort, then CAREFULLY slide it onto the engine hoist.
good luck.
ok, on a serious note do wut the guy sed at top, use a workbench or sumthing of that sort, then CAREFULLY slide it onto the engine hoist.
good luck.
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