Well I'm going to change my head gasket on my OBD1 GSR, and while the head is off, should I change my head bolt to ARP head studs? I mean is there any gain from ARP head studs? Pro? Con? let me know.

Thanks

 

Is your car stock? Just get the OEM ones if that's the case.

 

Oh and the difference is tensile strength (ARP is higher).

 

Check your repair manual.... I believe OEM head bolts are one time use only.

ARP are reuseable.

 

^^Another difference But I think you should just got pick up some new OEM's (I believe they are cheaper) if you car is stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your repair manual.... I believe OEM head bolts are one time use only.

ARP are reuseable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct and they are cheap!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richard7968 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

correct and they are cheap!</TD></TR></TABLE>

No as cheap as you think...

From Son's Acura:
PN: 90006-P72-003 $8.34
$8.34 X 10 = $83.40

From Ebay
ARP-208-4303 $125.00

I'd spend the extra cash on the ARP stuff.

 

If u plan on poppin ur head off fairly often then I would reccomend the arp's.....but if ur just doing a rebuild the oem will be just fine.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No as cheap as you think...

From Son's Acura:
PN: 90006-P72-003 $8.34
$8.34 X 10 = $83.40

From Ebay
ARP-208-4303 $125.00

I'd spend the extra cash on the ARP stuff.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/#

 

get the arp

 

^^^Listen to WhiteNess.

You'll never get HP gains out of head studs, lol. I'd only bother getting the ARP's if you plan on taking your head off again in the future, that's the best reason to get them, they're reusable....OEM's aern't. Or you can get them just to say you have them, heck, it's the same reason most people buy AEM fuel rails.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^Listen to WhiteNess.

You'll never get HP gains out of head studs, lol. I'd only bother getting the ARP's if you plan on taking your head off again in the future, that's the best reason to get them, they're reusable....OEM's aern't. Or you can get them just to say you have them, heck, it's the same reason most people buy AEM fuel rails.</TD></TR></TABLE>lmao

 

i dunno if they are different or not, but b16 head bolts from majestic honda are $6.10 each...that's half the price of the ARP's.

i used custom studs on my first ever build, then used head bolts on my built y8. that was smart because from majestic honda, for the y8, they are $1.72 each, so it didn't matter that i had the head off of that thing a few times.

for the dohc, it's a tough call, especially if i was paying close to 90 plus shipping for bolts (if the $6.10 b16 ones are different).

in that case i'd probably roll with ARP's.

 

as previously stated the arps are reuseable and the torque settings with their lube only usually differs about 8-10 ft./lbs or so from the stockers but if youre not running a high comp or boost motor go with stockers...

 

just get some bolts from home depot. arp and honda are overpriced and just as good as home depot bolts. i hollowed out mine for weight savings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get some bolts from home depot. arp and honda are overpriced and just as good as home depot bolts. i hollowed out mine for weight savings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is amazingly not funny, despite the enourmous attempt

but hey, we aren't all richard pryor

 

sorry i'm bored at work.

 

hahaha, well atleast he got a bump or two out of it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry i'm bored at work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would venture to say that describes 75% of the people on the forum

 

sorry for the delay. anyways its has a Brand NEW PR3 High Comp. CTR Piston, Skunk 2 Stage 2 Cams, Adj. Cam Gears, Flow ported head with Skunk2 High Comp. valves, retainers and springs, ITR TB. Skunk2 Intake Manifold, I got a stock OBD1 GSR long block, took it all apart and cleaned everything and put it all together myself. Oh and I also changes all the seals, gaskets, rings, WP, Timing Belt, basicaly everything thats not metal I replaced it with a Brand New OEM parts. I've only drove it for like 25 miles and found out that I'm leaking oil from the head gasket so i have to take the head off AGAIN so I was thinking if I should get ARP studs? I'm not going to take the head off ever again until I need to repair something. I reused the OLD head bolts, I didn't know they were one time use only. So I guess ARP it is... Where's a good place to buy them?

and what kind of head gasket should I get? I was thinking about another OEM one?

Also I can't get the car to idle, always have to put my foot one the gas and hold it to like 1500 RPM, any lower and it'll stumble and die. I checked for vacuum leak but there was none. Everything seem to be working normal? what can it be? I haven't check the compression yet so maybe I'll do that first and also do a leak down test...?

What do you guys think???

 

The only reason to go with a different headgasket is if your going with a thinner one....hence....the only reason to go with a thinner one is if you want a compression bump. Do you want a compression bump? Do you need a compression bump? What's your compression now? Is you compression in a good area for your cams to perform at their best, or would they like more compression?