VtecDA9

I'm a lil over 1000 miles on my break in and I am currently using castrol 10w 30, but I hear that you should switch to the oil that you will be using for the rest of the time after the 1000 mile mark. Should I just stick with castrol and maybe drop to 5w 30 or find a synthetic? The thing is, is that it will cost me more money to alwasy keep changing my oil using synthetic. I change my oil pretty frequently as well to be safe.

Or are all oils pretty much the same?

94dxt

The best oil for a Honda (IMO) is Mobil 1 10w-30, start using it now or soon. Worth the extra$$

JetSI

Amsoil if you can afford it.

projecthybrid04

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JetSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Amsoil if you can afford it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

fasho thats what im using

lowgman

I use conventional oil @ every change. I dont' bother using Mobil 1 or any synthetics on my D16Y7. I change my oil and filter every 4000KM anyways, which is once every month and a half.

svtec

i use honda 10w-30 conventional motor oil. it seems to do the trick changing it ever 3000 miles.

Aron Parsons

I've always used conventional oil in my D15B2, with oil changes every 3000 miles or less (usually less, about 2000 miles due to in-town driving and auto-x), and at 142,000, not one drop of oil is burned. I see no need for oil that costs 3x as much when conventional oil has proved to do what it needs to do.

NSX Bob

I use Mobil non-synthetic.

99silverbullet

same here

MikeSarr_GSR

synthetic oil has a way of evaporating, anyone that doesnt burn any under VTEC, WOT daily driving is a liar. since you have an LS VTEC, I suggest you stay on 10-30 GTX for about 5000 miles, change it often. I mean like every 1500 miles. It only costs next to nothing to do. The piston speeds on an LS/VTEC are more extreme than B18C due to the 89mm stroke. At higher RPMs, there is more ring float than with the B18C crank therefore you have more opportunity to burn oil.
there are several things that cause blow by. improper PCV circulation causing piston ring wear, running rich causing carbon build up that tends to clog ring lands. when the ring lands get clogged, the natural scrubbing effect the rings have on the cylinder walls that cause compression is effected allowing burnt gases to pass the rings. over time this increases and can damage the motor by the byproducts thinning the oil among other things. synthetic oil should be changed as often as stock intervals for just such a reason. if synthetic can get through the rings easier than normal oil and has a lower flash point as well, it will vaporize and contribute to the carbon build up in a motor. every 20K or so running synthetic it helps to de-carbonize the motor with some fuel system cleaner dropped in the spark plug holes when warm @ BDC and let it sit overnight, syphon it out and it will help free up the rings and keep good compression. after this, it will smoke for about 10-20 minutes when it stops, change the oil and filter IMMEDIATELY.

I run 10-40amsoil and I get it for 4.65 a quart on thier perferred customer status. its 20 bucks a year to get 25% off thier products. pretty cool. My GSR head/ITR block motor has 22K on it and I burn about .25-50 quart every 1500 miles. which is average to low for a VTEC motor driven to 8K daily. just some ideas for you. hope your motor gives you good service and makes power for a long time

ejprimo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94dxt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best oil for a Honda (IMO) is Mobil 1 10w-30, start using it now or soon. Worth the extra$$</TD></TR></TABLE>

conventional mobil oil is not all that great of an oil. if i were you id stick with the castrol or go with pennzoil or chevron supreme. the latter three are probably the best dino oils available.

personally i run castrol SLX 0w-30. it is ACEA A3 rated which means it is approved for bmw and mercedes. the only over the counter (available at common autoparts stores) synthetics that are ACEA A3 rated are the "made in germany" castrol syntec (SLX) 0W-30 and mobil 1 0W-40.

HookUpsImportTek

I would not use castrol at all EVER. Go get yourself 4 quarts of 5w-30 Mobil Standard Oil with a Mobil M-Series filter. Run that for 5,000 miles changing at 2,500 miles. Then switch to 5w-30 Mobil1 synthetic or AMSOIL 5w-30 synthetic while ALWAYS running a Mobil filter. If you care about the life of you car you will never use anything other then Mobil, AMSOIL, or REDLINE again. BTW, my CTR sees 9,000rpm's on a daily bases and hasnt burn a drop of oil since the change 1,714 miles ago according to my odometer. I run Mobil1 5w-30 and a Mobil M-104 filter. I also check my oil once a day and I suggest you do the same. Good luck.

MikeSarr_GSR

b16s should burn less oil due to the r/s ratio and lower piston speeds then that of the B18C based on the 77.4mm stroke, however you dont burn a drop of oil... I find that hard to swallow, especially running mobil 1. if you are going to make an endorsement of a product substantiate why you use it, please not just because its good. for anyone that doesnt have this B series freak occurance, burning 1/4-1/2 to even a full quart per 1500 miles driven hard daily is normal running synthetic on a motor with 20K to 100K miles. Sometimes new motors will use a bit more while breaking in.

HookUpsImportTek

Agreed, I have seen many b-series kiddies on here complaining that they burn a 1/4 to 1/2 a quart of synthetic oil (AND I MEAN ALL SYNTHETIC OILS NOT JUST MOBIL1) and have seen it first hand also. What some people here lack in those (Why am I burning oil?) posts is that they most likely over torqued their oil pan gasket when they did their swap (OR when someone else did), they leak out VTEC solenoid, they leak out the distributor, they leak out the cams seals, or they have 100k miles on the motor of pure beat time. Now im not claiming that everyone who burns leaks. Im just saying 90% of people who post that they are burning massive amounts of oil are not burning at all but have one of the above listed problems. Some people dont leak at all and still burn with perfect motors but you dont see such high loss numbers on people with clean setups. BTW, I choose to use Mobil1 synthetic oils because I have investigated many tests and concluded myself that Mobil1 is the best synthetic for the money/performance under harsh engine conditions. I have also concluded that Mobil filters have the best flow vs filtering ratios and thats why they are always tightly sealed to my B16B. Hope that explained my previous post a little better and helped out with the original question. I also support REDLINE and AMSOIL. They are quality product as well. Its a matter of experience too. If you've had engines do well with one brand of oil then you might end up sticking to that oil, which is fine. I will rely on scentific data myself.

evolve

10W-30 Castrol GTX, in every car I've owned.

iam7head

Pennzoil 5w20 for my accord and 10w20 for my legend

mostly city driving, change oil at 2500 for my accord and 3000 for legend.
moble one filter all the time, just flashed the radiator today too.

IEATLINT

i put Royal Purple 10-30 in mine...expensive as hell though

ion_four

Almost all dino oils are the same except Pennzoil. Pennzoil is made with a good amount of Parafin oil, which upon heating eventually turns into parafin wax and thus is ****. I mean, do you really want waxy build-up in your engine? the 89cent oil at wal-mart is better.

Either way, there are alot of people that believe the need to change oil is a conspiracy cooked up by the automobile manufacturers and oil companies, so keep that in mind

evolve

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Almost all dino oils are the same...the 89cent oil at wal-mart is better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not according to ppl in the industry, or these guys.
http://bobistheoilguy.com/

ejprimo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HookUpsImportTek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not use castrol at all EVER. Go get yourself 4 quarts of 5w-30 Mobil Standard Oil with a Mobil M-Series filter. Run that for 5,000 miles changing at 2,500 miles. Then switch to 5w-30 Mobil1 synthetic or AMSOIL 5w-30 synthetic while ALWAYS running a Mobil filter. If you care about the life of you car you will never use anything other then Mobil, AMSOIL, or REDLINE again. BTW, my CTR sees 9,000rpm's on a daily bases and hasnt burn a drop of oil since the change 1,714 miles ago according to my odometer. I run Mobil1 5w-30 and a Mobil M-104 filter. I also check my oil once a day and I suggest you do the same. Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

may i ask why you dont like castrol at all. are u assuming that castrol SLX is made from the same group III hydrocracked based oil like the rest of the syntec line? castrol gtx, pennzoil, and chevron supreme all have better additive packages than mobil. the previous three include moly in their oil formulation whereas mobil doesnt. moly is known as an anti wear agent and you can find about 700ppm of moly in redline, about 120ppm in mobil1 and about 70ppm in castrol gtx. the special honda break-in motor oil contains a lot of moly. chevron started to include moly in their formula. conventional mobil oil doesnt contain any moly. mobil 1 oil filters are very restrictive since that pack so much material into their filters so that they can acheive the best filtering ability. if you doubt what i say just go onto bobistheoilguy.com and give your opinion on motor oils or filters and you will recieve good feedback. best of all no one ever flames there.

Richard.

castrol SLX 0w-30

HookUpsImportTek

Just some general numbers to run by you. Keeping in mind that the brands you have mentioned have questionably HIGH amounts of your so called "additives" with leave HIGH amounts of deposits in the engine while also locking up rings which are both undesirable effects that can cause enigine damage and wear, pretty sad for a so called anti-wear additive package. With additives MORE is not always better. Its all about the right amount for the application. Too little can cause pre-mature wear but the same goes for too much. I have always used Mobil1 5w-30 but I am changing to 0w-40 on my next change and the numbers will reflect why.


Mobil 1 With SuperSyn™
SAE Grade 0W-40
Product Number 48149-9
API Service
Classification SL/CF
ACEA A3/B3/B4-02
Gravity, API 33.6
Specific Gravity 0.857

&gt;&gt;Pour Point, °C (°F) -54° (-65°)

&gt;&gt;Flash Point, ASTM D 92, °C (°F) 232° (450°)

&gt;&gt;Viscosity Index 185


So we are looking at a 185/450/-65


Find me an oil the beats those rates in a 0w-40 formula in 2 of 3 catagories and I will by 4 quarts of it tomorrow. The only thing that can contend it AMSOIL but their additive package will simply never touch the inside of my engine so X them off.


BTW, Mobil1 filters have been found to have the best (Flow vs. Filtering) ratio of any filter available on the market today.

MikeSarr_GSR

This is what I run FYI.

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 10W-40 Motor Oil

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
14.0

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
79.2

Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
183

CCS Viscosity @ -20°C, cP (ASTM D 2602)
2614

Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 97)
-48 (-54)

Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 92)
232 (450)

High Temperature/High Shear @ 150°C and 1.0 X 106 s-1, cP (ASTM D 4683), cP
3.93

Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM D 4172 @ 40 kgf, 150°C, 1800 rpm, 1 hour, Scar in mm) 0.40

Noack Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (DIN 51581)
7.0

Total Base Number
&gt;12.0

I have been running this in my GSR(head)/C5 motor since hit had
6K miles I have about 24K on it now. Before that was 10-30ams
from 3000-6000 and before that was 10-30w GTX for two oil changes
(@500 and 1500) and before that I broke it in on 5-30 GTX for 500
miles. I change my ams between 3 and 4K religiously and also
check my valve clearances for spec every 5K. Every time I open
the motor I look at the cam lobes and such, pull the plugs and shine
a light into the holes. I see some carbon in there, however I have a
GSR stock ecu and stock GSR settings on a 10.8:1 motor. My tuning
is not ideal, therefore I cannot attest to the oil making that deposit.
Every motor I have ever seen besides my fathers GSR which has
164K on it drives narrow maps mainly and always ran 10-30 and now
10-40 GTX. His piston tops are gold-colored as is the rest of the inside
of his motor. He may have done a few 5-8K oil changes here and there
over the life of the car. My engine does have more carbon in it, however
I drive mine much differently.

explain what is in the amsoil that you think or know will contribute to
deposits around the rings, oil burnoff and premature wear. I recently
dropped my pistons to BDC and installed redline fuel system cleaner
in the holes and left it in there for about 2 hours, siphoned it out,
flushed and changed the oil with fresh and changed the filter. My oil
consumption cut in half or better and stays cleaner longer. I have seen
some mobil1 heartache first hand as well so, try and keep it less subjective.
I am a listener. I am asking you for facts, seems like you have them.
Numbers arent exactly the same, however the tests seem to be different as well.
These oils seem very comparable. I know the ams has additives, I dont
know what, why and how they work but they seem to perform well. Mobil1 also
has additives. What is your information leading you to why mobil one is better than the choice I made to run the AMO_10-40AMS and explain it fully if you can.
I like information. Also would like photos of the roofs of your pistons.
All B series engines when pushed hard form deposits. Keep em stock, baby them and they do, but much less. I have proof of that statement in the form of a very happy 95 GSR motor with 164K that burns about 1qt per oil change with NO Black carbon stains on the piston roofs. It has some leakage, cam seals there is alot of oil in the filter... so I say maybe more like .75-1qt in 3500 miles.



Modified by MikeSarr_GSR at 9:08 PM 6/21/2003

ejprimo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HookUpsImportTek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just some general numbers to run by you. Keeping in mind that the brands you have mentioned have questionably HIGH amounts of your so called "additives" with leave HIGH amounts of deposits in the engine while also locking up rings which are both undesirable effects that can cause enigine damage and wear, pretty sad for a so called anti-wear additive package. With additives MORE is not always better. Its all about the right amount for the application. Too little can cause pre-mature wear but the same goes for too much. I have always used Mobil1 5w-30 but I am changing to 0w-40 on my next change and the numbers will reflect why.


Mobil 1 With SuperSyn™
SAE Grade 0W-40
Product Number 48149-9
API Service
Classification SL/CF
ACEA A3/B3/B4-02
Gravity, API 33.6
Specific Gravity 0.857

&gt;&gt;Pour Point, °C (°F) -54° (-65°)

&gt;&gt;Flash Point, ASTM D 92, °C (°F) 232° (450°)

&gt;&gt;Viscosity Index 185


So we are looking at a 185/450/-65


Find me an oil the beats those rates in a 0w-40 formula in 2 of 3 catagories and I will by 4 quarts of it tomorrow. The only thing that can contend it AMSOIL but their additive package will simply never touch the inside of my engine so X them off.


BTW, Mobil1 filters have been found to have the best (Flow vs. Filtering) ratio of any filter available on the market today. </TD></TR></TABLE>

mobil 1 0w-40 is the best syn. in the mobil 1 line. and made in germany castrol syntec 0w-30 is the best syn. in the syntec line.

and the so-called additive that i mentioned earlier, moly, is included in all mobil 1 motor oils.

ejprimo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mobil 1 With SuperSyn™
SAE Grade 0W-40
Product Number 48149-9
API Service
Classification SL/CF
ACEA A3/B3/B4-02
Gravity, API 33.6
Specific Gravity 0.857

&gt;&gt;Pour Point, °C (°F) -54° (-65°)

&gt;&gt;Flash Point, ASTM D 92, °C (°F) 232° (450°)

&gt;&gt;Viscosity Index 185


So we are looking at a 185/450/-65


</TD></TR></TABLE>

here are the specs for german syntec:

Color: Green
Pour Point: -61*C
Flash Point: 238*C
Viscosity @ 40*C: 68.5
Viscosity @ 100*C: 12.1
Viscosity @ 150*C: 5.7
HTHS: 3.6
Cold Cranking Vis @ -30*C: 3200
TBN: 10.6
VI: 179


looks like my motor oil beat you in two out of the three categories and its only a 0w-30.