Anybody have any tips or pointers they would like to share on how they removed the philip screw that holds the rotor inside the distributer cap without stripping it.
Is it just me, or they just have a good tendency of stripping I wish they would make those damn screws a little stronger

 

Remove the distributor and use a #2 phillips with a decently long handle on it.

 

I'm running without any, cause they bind, and the hub holds the rotor on pretty well.

PPL will say impact wrench. EZ-OUT, or hit it with a torch, and harness the properties of thermal expansion/contraction...

Good luck.

-PHiZ

 

Whups, wrong rotors. hahah

-PHiZ

 

hah!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the distributor and use a #2 phillips with a decently long handle on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>That's a good tip, anyone else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody have any tips or pointers they would like to share on how they removed the philip screw that holds the rotor inside the distributer cap without stripping it.
Is it just me, or they just have a good tendency of stripping I wish they would make those damn screws a little stronger </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know which dizzy's you been working on but, I have NEVER SEEN a rotor set screw that was a "phillips". EVERYONE, I've ever seen is an "allen" or sometimes it's called a "hex-head" and not to be confused with a "torx". Maybe that's why you're stripping it. LOL Not to worry the new honda rotor ALWAYS comes with a new one. AND DON"T EVER put a new rotor in without replacing it with a new one. You have been forwarned.
HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4crx4me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know which dizzy's you been working on but, I have NEVER SEEN a rotor set screw that was a "phillips". EVERYONE, I've ever seen is an "allen" or sometimes it's called a "hex-head" and not to be confused with a "torx". Maybe that's why you're stripping it. LOL Not to worry the new honda rotor ALWAYS comes with a new one. AND DON"T EVER put a new rotor in without replacing it with a new one. You have been forwarned.
HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>Actually, every single distributor cap I've taken off is with a philips screw head. And no, oem ignition rotors don't always come with another screw. Like the last one I worked on....96 civic ex, oem rotor did not come with a new screw. Btw, thanks for the reply but you did not give a tip or pointer on the removal of the screw. Please do.
I do tuneups, etc. everyday but still haven't found a sure way to get every one of those dang screws off at first try.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, every single distributor cap I've taken off is with a philips screw head. And no, oem ignition rotors don't always come with another screw. Like the last one I worked on....96 civic ex, oem rotor did not come with a new screw. Btw, thanks for the reply but you did not give a tip or pointer on the removal of the screw. Please do.
I do tuneups, etc. everyday but still haven't found a sure way to get every one of those dang screws off at first try. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, I've never seen a "phillips".
The last 1/2 dozen were allens and the last 1/2 dozen "Honda caps" came with the updated rotor AND hex screw. Sorry to hear yours' didn't.
The only "tips" I can think of to help , for me, I always found it easier to remove the little plastic inner cover and sometimes loosen the coil. To get a better angle on the set screw. Blip the engine to get the set screw on the top edge of the dizzy shaft where you can see it. And if you stripped it ,use a needle nose vise-grips to unscrew it or cut a slot with a dremel, and use a flat head. HTH

 

the allen head screws are all replacements, and only come in certain cap kits, all originals are #2 phillips, that are very soft steel... I've been bitching about this for years! Tech-line says they are aware of the problem, but have no solution... (as usuall!)
Anyway, the best tool I can recommend is a "T" handle type screw drive with a screwdriver socket that allows you to replace the bits... basically you can get them at most any motorcycle dealer, or make your own with steel rod and a cheap old craftsman socket thats made for 1/4" bits, you just weld the socket to the rod, then a piece of the rod perpindicular to the top... whala.
You will be able to get just about any screw out with this, and never have to worry about broken bits since you can easily slip in a new bit.

Personally, I use my "T" handle tools more than just about anything else... the one you can buy from a motorcycle dealer comes in a set that has an 8mm 10mm 12mm 14mm and 17mm socket as well as a #2 and a #3 phillips screwdriver with permanent bits that I have long since broken and welded on the craftsman bit sockets which make them way better anyway.

 

insert a #2 phillips and tap the back of the handle with a hammer..(kinda like an impact screwdriver)..do not tap too hard and try not to damage anything if it doesent work after doing a few times dont try anymore ..it works sometimes and sometimes it doesent..

 

impact driver has always worked well for me

 

Needlenose Vise-Grips.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impact driver has always worked well for me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too.

 

This is the best advice.

I've never run into one that I couldn't get off. Only done it on 3 different civics though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axhandler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the best advice.

I've never run into one that I couldn't get off. Only done it on 3 different civics though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And to add an extra bit of advice put some "Never-Seize" on the threads, before you put the new one in. "Never-Seize" is your best friend when it comes to older hondas. LOL

 

Heat the bolt with a soldering iron, then loosen while hot. Someone may have put loctite on it.......3gdude

 

You can also try some valve lapping compound. The grit helps the screwdriver tip hold the screw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4crx4me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And to add an extra bit of advice put some "Never-Seize" on the threads, before you put the new one in. "Never-Seize" is your best friend when it comes to older hondas. LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't think I'd use anti-seize on this screw; maybe loc-tite....the reason being is that twice I've personally seen those screw shoot out and mess up a sensor inside the distributer or so....also I read many other and not just me had this problem on Honda-tech before with the screw keep shooting out .
I personally had one put a hole in my distributor cap while the other destroyed a sensor that isn't replaceable inside the distributor (CYP Sensor).
So yeah, you don't want those to easily come out.