I have a pretty much stock B16a crx with bolt ons. I plan to drive from the bay area to socal a lot. I've done searches but non answer my question. I hate losing to gsr crx's. Should I get the Skunk2 manifold with cams and tune it. Or just slap together a small turbo kit and boost 7-9 psi's on the stock B16a? It's got milage on the motor and I plan to hit up the night scene in ontario. What do you guys think, be specific.

 

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I am having a similar dilema, I am not sure if I want my B16 to be NA or turbo. I know turbo will net me alot more power, but I think a NA will be better for me since it is my daily driver, and I need reliabilty and drivability.
You should consider what your circumstances are.
do you use it for a daily driver?
do you want good drivability, or top end power?
Many people say that turbo is less expensive than NA, but i figure once you add in all the expenses of running a reliable turbo, it equals that of NA tunning.

 

Gaaaaaar...I'm having the same issue with my D16A6. It's a tired engine...so on one hand I want to turbo it and just have some fun...arr I don't know...

 

turbo it, and then if it blows up you have a solid excuse to buy a B series.

 

Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

Seriously, Turbo is faster, harder to do, and costs more. Cams and whatnot for an NA setup will be fast and cheaper (if you buy a turbo kit) or require less involvement (if you try to make your own kit...it's not as easy as some think to make a decent kit that won't blow up the motor)

 

Ctr Pistons $325 = high compression in a B16a!!!
Toda spec b's w/ gears ~$1,000
Apex Vfac : A couple hundred
Type R manifold 250
Ishino gasket kit and Oem block gasket kit 200.
Waterpump/ thermostat ~60
Rebuild for power and reliability..

 

supercharge

 

As said by another member, speed costs money. It depends how fast you want to be? A turbo kit is ultimatly the fastest way to get quick. There are many on the market competively priced. IMO i would get a turbo kit before i went all motor, just because all motor eventually gets very pricey. Plus honda parts in general are way marked up. I've owned a hybrid EK4 and 2000 DC2 with a GReddy turbo kit. It was quick, but nothing to write home about.

 

yeah i have you considered supercharging?

 

ifi was u i would go all motor for awhile then later on supercharge it especially if its ur daily driver. but if its not ur daily driver then just go on and put a turbo in it.

 

I think he misconception of NA and turbo being more reliable then the other is way outta wack... **** that. I've had my car turbo for like 6 months now and I drive it everyday too and from school, out to eat, all over the god damn place and it doesn't brake down..... wtf kind of maintence you think is involved here? I change my oil at 3k on the nose??? shouldn't you be doing that already????

Come on guys if your not a moron or an abuser of your car EITHER setup is just as reliable as the other, so stop with this reliability issue with turbo topic again.

 

i like the sound of the BOV frum a turbo

 

i like the sound of the BOV and intercoolers look good
turbo all the way

 

but when u go turbo, no one will want to race because of ur BOV..lol

 

if you have the experience to warrant driving a boosted honda engine, I would say in your case being de-stroked you can manage the power better if your engine is in stock trim. the B16 at 77mm stroke/81 bore can handle the boost more naturally, I would say if you have the experience and know how to do the work, go for it. NA on a B16 can get expensive, you may end up paying the same or more to go NA. If you go NA, you could sleeve and bore the engine to 84-85mm and have the head ported and spotmatched.

Just for that I would estimate: 12.5:1 CR target CR
200/140 at the wheels on stock B16 cams

$850 for endyn/weisco pistons and rings 12.5:1 pistons, endyn/eagle forged rods
$250 for rod and main bearings, rod fasteners and thrust washers
$750 for sleeving/boring by golden eagle,
$400 for engine build, crank prep
$400-750 Hondata stage 2, tuned on the appropriate OBD1 cpu
$300 for properly sized balanced/blueprinted RC 270-310 injectors
$500 for head porting with ITR intake valves, optimized for 11mm lift at
the valve CFM flow, buy ITR valvesprings and LMAs
Stock cams or:
($500-750 buy either ITR, CTR or Skunk2 stage 1 cams to make about 15% more power than above estimate)
$200 for skunk2 cam sprockets
$300 for skunk manifold, use stock TB portmatch
$200 for gaskets
$300 new water pump, timing belt and oil pump
$500 to pull and reinstall motor.
$200 for dyno tuning (imperitave need to see AFR and tune for optimum efficiency)

I,H,E is necessary now,
4-1 JDM ITR header will be nice with a perf. cat
cat back of your choice, 2.5"
Intake would best be a 3" ITR AEM CAI or SRI

Or go turbo,
which is no shortcut as internals will need work in about
20K miles, in your case maybe sooner especially when you decide to
turn up the boost. either way, you are going to spend more money
when you get in the door on either setup. there is no end of spending money,
you still have to maintain the engine. on high horsepower applications, this
means bearings and rings more frequently...

 

Thanks a lot, that was most helpful. So I guess running 7-9psi on a stock B16 block is pushing it then. From posting this thread it sounds like turbo is the way to go. It's a fun exp., lots of power and if the motor blows and least I blew it with a turbo! Thanks a lot all of you peeps, if you've got anymore input, kee them coming!

 

come on man, 6 months is only a good way to guage reliability of a Ford . I should hope any car could go atleast 6 months. I remember seeing 200,000+ mile Honda motors, that is reliability.

 

i've got an 86 prelude si and it's got well over 253,000 miles and still runs like a champ!

 

I had one also and I sold it after 268K on the original motor! I wish I still had it.,..
if I hadnt abused it, 3rd gear might have still worked.


[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 9:38 PM 10/8/2002]