I am removing my stocks, and putting in my Konis right away. What are some good tips that I should keep in mind before I start this job? I have never done this before.


Thanks.


[Modified by SoulflyCRXsi, 11:07 AM 3/19/2003]

 

spray down the bolts with penetrant in advance.
spray down the brake assembly - you dont want to inhale the dust
be ready for broken bolts if the bolts are seized.
have someone handy - you will more than likely need someone to push down on the rotor to get the shock assembly back in... at least for the rears.
it can also be a pain to line up the bolt holes and get the bolts back in... have someone handy or use screwdrivers to line up the holes.
You will need spring compressors for the stock springs (unless you know how to do it w/o them... not recommended though), you probably wont need to use compressors to put on the aftermarket springs.
hth

 

bump.

Thanks...

 

This is the MOST important part!!...Since you have never done this before I will warn you without a spring compressor you could get seriously injured

 

You can get one of those MacPherson strut clamps from sears I think. Its a little hard to get the clamps around the spring because they are meant for bigger springs I think but I managed to do it. You can probably run your stock struts\springs to a shop and have them compress\remove the spring for you for a few bucks. Its really an easy job to do, I did my own in a day and it was the first one I ever did, just have a haynes\helms handy. Make sure you have a torque wrench and the torque specs are in the haynes\helms.

 

If you follow the helms there is a second LCA bolt that needs to be removed. It connects the LCA to the trailing arm. If this is removed hte LCA pivots to the floor (only connected to the subframe) and the shock can easily be removed. I did it the wrong way 2times before actually reading the helms.

This was good site I used for my first time.
http://internet.cybermesa.com/~drew/...uspension.html

 

replace your axel nuts and get cotter pins to replace. also, you want to dent in one of the sides of the axel nuts once you're done. you need a 17mm, axel nut socket, spring compressor.

 

i'm thinking about trying to do this myself as well (just rears) but i am without the proper tools right now...how much would a spring compressor and a good torque wrench run me?

 

right. that bolt can seize up though, so i guess you can do it either way.

 

it can be done without touching the axle nut or taking off the nut on the lower balljoint. these are unnecessary steps.

here's what i usually use:

- a handy friend just in case
- big hammer *just in case*
- spring compressor
- long cheater bar for those old stubborn bolts
- wd-40 or liquid wrench etc
- 14 mm deep socket
- 17 mm socket and box wrench
- set of hex wrenches for top of shaft on shock
- 10 mm wrench or socket for brake line bolts (if its not 10 then prob 12)
- small jack to hold up rears (if your too lazy like me to hold it up urself)

good luck with ur install and have fun.

 

Thanks guys! Do the Konis use the same hardware as the stock struts? With my Konis, I got some sleves, and an assortment of washers etc. Are doing struts fairly easy?

 

It's cake man. All the advice given in the previous posts is perfect, it's everything you need to know. My guess is, with the right tools, you'll have this done in maybe 3 hours.

Make sure you line up the groove on the bottom of the front shocks with the bolt on the fork (you'll see). That's where i screwed up the first time. Other than that you're set.

 

Cool. Lucky for me, my adjustable springs will not need compressing.

 

Stupid question....

will I need a 1/2" torque wrench, or a 3/8" torque wrench?

Please excuse my ignorance.

EDIT: N/m. Its 1/2.


[Modified by SoulflyCRXsi, 9:41 AM 3/27/2003]

 

The 1/2" or 3/8 does not matter. It is just a different sized tool. The calibration should be the same on each. Personally, I like the 1/2"

If you have 3/8 sockets you will need an adapter for a 1/2 wrench and visa versa