Bone stock 94' Integra B18B1 (from what I have read). Driving one night and it just lost power, I threw her into N and the motor died. After about 10 mins she started but wouldnt hold an idle for more than 2 secs. Now she just wont start.

Timing belt good, plugs are not fouled, no check engine light, fuel comes rushing out (filter bolt removed to test) when ignition turned on.

No spark at end of plug wire so I decide to just change the coil and igniter one at a time. Swapped coil and she still wont start. I go to change the igniter and when I try and crank the motor to get to the rotor screw I notice that the rotor is not turning anymore. Hmmm... Being alone I had to take video of the cam and rotor. Sure enough the cam is not turning and neither is the rotor.

So now im kinda stuck on what I should check next. Hondas arent my thing but I can manage most repairs with a good DIY.

Those that have got this far in reading my problems, thanks in advance for any help.

 

is the crank spinning when you turn it?

 

Good call... yes, I can see all the drive belts turning. Just went out and checked.

 

Take the oil cap off and crank the engine and check if your valves are moving. How do you know your timing belts not ripped? Did u check it?
Take the dizzy of and crank it maybe the cam snapped or the roll pin in the rotor broke or the cam side broke off.

 

All I know w/o removing the TB cover is that the TB has good tension, was replaced within the past 30k (according to previous owner). There has to be a gear on the crankshaft that turns the TB so maybe its stripped or missing tooth? I dont know Hondas. Thats why im asking members of this forum. I would think if the TB was broken I would be able to pull the thing out once the VC was removed right? "Shreded" doubt that unless the thing was made in China.

 

have you checked the ignition control module (icm) inside the distributor. youll see it when you take off the distributor cap its flat, like a thin tick tak box and two wires go to it

 

Yes, that was in my first post. I believe being new to the forum im only allowed to post a couple times a day so I may not get to reply till 24 hours, LOL.

The ICM was swapped out already but was really never bad to begin with. I have good current to the ICM when ignition on and when the ignition is turned to start it send -ground to the coil.

 

So did you inspect the rotor of the distributor? The side that makes contact with the cam?
There's 3 bolts holding the distributor in, before you remove it mark a line on the top of the distributor and the cam holder. So when you install it you don't have to sset the timing again.

 

Yes, its not stripped or anything. The cam side is slotted and the dizzy side is like a key that fits into the side of the cam.

With the valve cover off I crank the motor and the cams dont move. This is causing the rotor to also not move.

My next step is to inspect the crank area that connects to the TB since the crank turns but the TB and cam gears do not. Do you know what kind of material the gear is made of that turns the TB from the crank?

 

There's a woodruff key that hold the timing belt gear it most likely is that. To check it you have to pull the accessory crank pully off and all the belts. Good luck its not that much work. Hopefully your valves aren't bent.

 

either way youll need to pull off the crank pulley and timing cover

because its lasted so long without problems, im thinking its missing that little restricter plate on the crank, that keeps the tb from walking off. his belts are spinning so i think the w key is there

the timing belt gear doesnt have a woodruff key, its built into the gear. if i remember correctly

 

If that plate was missing he wouldn't have tension on the belt. He said he did have some tension not exactly sure since he didn't state where he saw the deflection. Either way all that has to come off to check.
And check your valves
Edit it is a woodruff keey this is what ur lookiing for.

 

im was talking about those 2 platesat the top

 

i guess we have to wait till he takes it all apart

 

Yeah I guess there all a little diffrent. Mine was for a gsr crank. Till the covers are off we'll see, but I bet that peice in the left side broke off.

 

yeah i think my 96 b18b has the w key built in the crank but a pre '96 ls crank unknown year i have has the slot in it for the w key, now that i think of it

 

I didnt get to taking off all that I needed to because I car isnt in the garage and is in the street but heres where im at now...

I removed the mid plastic cover just under the VC and found out the the gear itself on the crankshaft does indeed turn. I also found shavings in the cover as well as a rubber TOOTH from the TB.





Im gonna have it towed to the shop and have them replace the TB and or find anything else wrong with it.

Thanks for any and all help. If its anything more than an TB replacement casusing the problem then ill re-post and update. I hate when threads arent updated with a resolution.

 

Why not do it yourself??

 

Couple reasons bro...

1. Discouraged because my Audi took 8 hours and told myself I would never do another TB again, LOL.

2. Looks like the motor has to be pulled or tilted on the DS. I have no cherry picker.

3. Im thinking that since the crank has been moving that the timing is all off and getting it all back to TDC isnt as easy as im thinking it is

4. and the main reason, the Acura is infront of my house in the street. When I towed it, I couldnt back it into my garage because I also keep my trailer in there. Getting the Acura in the garage now by myself isnt happening.

Ill read up a tutorial and se how I feel afterwards. I think I saw one in the Integra threads.

 

do you have a jack, air gun, and tools. dont need a cherry picker

 

I have no air...

 

You don't need air tools. I've been working on cars for 7 years and have never needed it. Sure it makes some things faster but once you're in tight places; you won't even touch it.

 

Agreed... same here. The luxury of air is speed and torque. Especially for that crank lock nut or whatever that thing is. Its getting towed tomorrow morning. I was quoted 2.5 hours to get the new belt on and run a leak down test. Hopefully all it needs is the belt. Otherwise, this Acura is getting donated to the tax man.

 

UPDATE - Timing belt replaced. Started right up. Compression and leakdown test were good!