5 wire to 4 wire o2 Let's get it straight!!
I know alot of people have asked this question (me included) but everyone seems to have a different answer.
What is the easiest or the best way to change from 5 wire to a 4 wire o2?
Can you use 4 out of the 5 wires in the plug and wire a 4 wire plug in or do you need to wire directly to the ecu?
Using a 4 wire cars engine harness like a gsr would be plug and play but for people like me who used the vx harness, we are left with a plug and are not sure what to do. Anyone who has information that is known to work please reply so we can archive this!
What is the easiest or the best way to change from 5 wire to a 4 wire o2?
Can you use 4 out of the 5 wires in the plug and wire a 4 wire plug in or do you need to wire directly to the ecu?
Using a 4 wire cars engine harness like a gsr would be plug and play but for people like me who used the vx harness, we are left with a plug and are not sure what to do. Anyone who has information that is known to work please reply so we can archive this!
I will try to help a bit. Here are the connections for the five wire:
Pin 1 Heater Supply Orange
Pin 2 Heater Return Yellow
Pin 3 Calibration Resistor
Pin 4 Calibration Resistor
Pin 5 No connection
Pin 6 Voltage Sense Cell Red
Pin 7 Ion Pump Current White
Pin 8 Sensor Common Black
The colors are the wires on the NTK 5 wire Sensor. The heater on the five wire sensor takes 10.5 volts at around 1.2 Amps, a little less current when hotter. The sense cell is much like the sense cell on a 4 wire. Pin 8 would be like sense cell negative, and Pin 6 would be the sense cell positive. At stoichiometric there will be about 0.450 volts positive between pin 6 and 8. Pin 7 is unique to the five wire it supplies + and - about 6 milliAmps to an ion pump cell. This current is modulated to keep the sense cell exactly at 0.450 volts. Reading this oxygen ion pump current and comparing with a calibration table gives you the fuel air ratio in the exhaust stream. A 5 wire sensor is very different than the 4 wire. They are not interchangeable.
Help me with what exact substitution you are trying to do and I will try to help. Are you trying to use the 5 wire as a 4 wire? Not a good bet. Are you trying to use a 5 wire harness with a 4 wire sensor and 4 wire ECM? Then these color codes may help.
PS If you have an old 5 wire sensor, I would be interested in it. I need a used 5 wire for some tests. IM mail on it.
Regards,
BigMoose
[Modified by BigMoose, 11:25 PM 8/7/2002]
Pin 1 Heater Supply Orange
Pin 2 Heater Return Yellow
Pin 3 Calibration Resistor
Pin 4 Calibration Resistor
Pin 5 No connection
Pin 6 Voltage Sense Cell Red
Pin 7 Ion Pump Current White
Pin 8 Sensor Common Black
The colors are the wires on the NTK 5 wire Sensor. The heater on the five wire sensor takes 10.5 volts at around 1.2 Amps, a little less current when hotter. The sense cell is much like the sense cell on a 4 wire. Pin 8 would be like sense cell negative, and Pin 6 would be the sense cell positive. At stoichiometric there will be about 0.450 volts positive between pin 6 and 8. Pin 7 is unique to the five wire it supplies + and - about 6 milliAmps to an ion pump cell. This current is modulated to keep the sense cell exactly at 0.450 volts. Reading this oxygen ion pump current and comparing with a calibration table gives you the fuel air ratio in the exhaust stream. A 5 wire sensor is very different than the 4 wire. They are not interchangeable.
Help me with what exact substitution you are trying to do and I will try to help. Are you trying to use the 5 wire as a 4 wire? Not a good bet. Are you trying to use a 5 wire harness with a 4 wire sensor and 4 wire ECM? Then these color codes may help.
PS If you have an old 5 wire sensor, I would be interested in it. I need a used 5 wire for some tests. IM mail on it.
Regards,
BigMoose
[Modified by BigMoose, 11:25 PM 8/7/2002]
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