Crower offers a stroker kit for the B18C that strokes it out to 2.26 L... With high-compression pistons, oversized valves, new springs and retainers, and a more aggressive cam (Duration Int- 297/Exh- 287, Lift .446/.465), as well as some bolt-ons (Performer-X Intake Manifold, sensible cold air, other misc.) and a good Hondata tune up, what horsepower gains could I expect? This is the set-up I want to eventually run on an all-motor 5th Gen Civic Hatch swap. I was thinking at first of going supercharger/turbo, but I think really hardcore all-motor street set-ups are definitely more unique, if not more durable.


[Modified by Mister Fixer, 5:34 AM 2/5/2003]

 

If they aren't stuffing a seriously long rod in there, the r/s ratio of this setup is at or near 1.4:1. If they are they're probably having to compromise the oil control ringland, and in either case I'd certainly hesitate to call this a reliable setup (over the long term). If you're so interested in displacement, why not either start with a Dart B20+ block or just get an H22???

 

What is the rod length for a B18C? I was trying to find it earlier, but I guess I didn't look hard enough. The stroke for the kit is 95mm, btw.

The main reason I would go with the B18C is parts avaliability. It is a very well-supported platform, obviously.

 

a B18C1 rod is 137.9 mm long, measured center-center

The dart B20+ block has a 226mm deck, vs. the 212mm B18C1 deck. Using this block with it's avaliable 84.5mm bore would give you 2.13L with that 95mm stroke. Even using a standard wrist pin location you'd get a 1.56:1 rod ratio.

What are you planning to use this engine for?

 

Mostly just cruising, with the occasional stop at the track... More than anything, though, I'm an enthusiast. I like building and taking apart cars.

 

Then do it right and don't skimp on the geometry. I would be willing to bet you'll have cylinder sealing problems in no time with the Crower 95mm crank on a B18C1 block.