Trying to break free the crank bolt on a H22a. The damn thing will not break free with a 500 ft/lbs impact gun. Put a breaker bar with a leverage bar on the end and get nothing but flex. Tried tapping it with a hammer and nothing the fuc_in thing wont give. Anyone have any similar prob. I swear the Honda dealer that change the timing belt torque that thing on with an impact. This isn’t a reverse thread the book doesn’t say it is? Help I’m grasping for anything!


[Modified by Quiz, 5:57 PM 11/16/2002]

 

Not reverse thread. How are you stopping the motor from spinning when hitting it with the impact? Need to lock the flywheel in place. If you are already doing this, get a longer pipe on the breaker bar. Last resort, get it hot with a torch but becareful not to melt the plastic.

 

try a 3/4 in. drive impact...

 

I have one of these for just such bitches:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html

 

I can't really help you out except to say i feel your pain man

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=328470

 

I have already tried heating it with torch carefully. Instead of forking out a **** load of money for Honda’s special crank pulley tool I, with help from a friend, made there junk *** tool with an oversized nut welded to a piece of flat stock and turned the treads out so I could get the 19mm impact socket through it. Holds it fine but there is too much flex with the 1/2 inch drive any more torque on it and I'm sure it will snap. Tomorrow I'm going to pick up 3/4 inch drive. I gave up on the impact gun. It's insane how much torque is on this bolt, are these Honda techs afraid the crank pulleys are just gonna fly off with a measly 181 ft/lbs!

 

When you reinstall, use ANTISEIZE on the threads.

 

Ok went to sears today to pick up 3/4 drive. No one sells a 19mm or 3/4 inch (19mm equivalent) socket in 3/4 inch drive. So I bought a 3/4 inch drive extension and another 1/2 inch drive 19mm impact socket. Grinded the extension down to 1/2 inch slipped it on and welded the socket to it. This finally broke the crank bolt loose, but not easily. This is the most ridiculous bolt I have ever had to work with.

 

reminder to self when i put on my new pe timing belt

a torch worked for me

 

i had to resort to going to honda to get mine off.......3/4" drive impact didnt get it off at 750 ft/lbs......they put the crank pulley tool on it and then a BIG extension with it up on the lift and it finally gave......i thought it was gonna ruin the threads on the crank

 

chain wrench on pulley and breaker bar on the bolt works everytime

 

i just took a craftsman 1/2 inch drive socket wrench and a craftsman 19mm socket... first i tried a copper pipe to extend my leverage... that just broke, so i went to a thicker steel tube...
basicly jumping up and down on the thing, it broke free
none the less, it was a big bitch, it took my friend holding the engine stand down and me putting all my effort...
time it took, 20 mintues..

 

A screw driver wedging the flywheel in place, and a bigass breaker bad always work for me.

 

I hate those mechanics who use their zap guns on everything. I have seen a bunch of stripped out stuff on aluminum blocks. For stubborn crank pulley bolts I've put oil in a cylinder on compression, put the plug back in, and that holds the crank without "wedging" things or buying special tools. Use cylinder 3 or 4 so the no 1 main bearing doesn't take all the load, and get the piston about half way up on compression so it has a good angle on the crank. Then get a big *** breaker bar. Kindof a mess is the only drawback. You can also put it in gear and step on the brakes if you have someone to help you. Just another option...

 

Welcome to the club.

 

i used 3ft breaker bar with 3ft bar connected to it. took me 3 days to figure out. air tools didn't even touch it.