Hello guys. so on a recent trip with the civic, the check engine light came on and I lost all power, after messing with it, to get home I had to turn the key to accessory and leave it there for about 10 seconds, then I would turn the key to on, pop the clutch, get about 5-10 seconds of power to before the check engine light would come on again and kill it. I tried to read the check engine code but the check engine light would stay solid but the srs light would flash. I reset the srs light but no change. during the time the car runs I don't have the srs light on, only while trying to get the check engine code. I thought it might be the fuel pump relay and replaced it with a new one from autozone but no change. after sitting all night, she starts up and will run normal for about 15 min no problem then starts acting up. once the check engine light comes on, I pulled a spark plug and I have spark while the check engine light is on. I was checking voltage on the throttle position sensor and when the check engine light comes on, the idle tps voltage drops from the normal 0.3 down to 0 so it loses power. any input would be much appreciated. O... the motor was changed out for the original motor a couple of years back and has never had issues but its a D16z6 and the ecu is a p06. Thanks guys

 

also I did a water pump and t. belt change out about 1000 miles ago

 

Problem might be in the ecu. Thep28 is the right ecu for the z6, the p06 is similar, but doesnt have vtec hardware.

 

I would check the resistance across all three pickups in the distributor.

I dont know why your srs light is blinking when you try to pull the codes. Are you sure your using the 2 pin jumper?

Also give me a little more information on what happens when the car shuts off. Does it just shut off immediately or does it sputter and slowly die.

 

I picked up the car just to commute and the person that did the motor swap said he kept the original ecu from the d15. I haven't minded that, the car only revs out to 5500rpm but I don't need to go any higher than that. The ECU might have gone bad. Is there any way to check that? Is there any guidance on how to the the resistance across the distributor? Im certain that im using the 2 pin jumper that's under the passenger side kick panel. ive pulled a code from it a couple thousand miles ago for a bad O2 sensor. It shuts off immediately, no sputter, no jerking. when the check engine light kills the car, if I take the key to off and back to on without a pause, the check engine light will stay on, fuel pump wont prime.

 

Quick video of what is going on



civic problems 1: http://youtu.be/-zT6v89T4D8

civic problems: http://youtu.be/bdNULbofLIk

 

Solid CEL = Bad ECU. 94

 

Would a p75 from an automatic work for my d16? Im not worried about performance