PhreaKwenCi

Hey guys, first time posting on this forum. I've got a 1988 Acura Integra that's got a crankshaft pulley that won't come off, I can't get the bolt off basically. I've got PB blaster, a blowtorch, breaker bar, and a 17 mm socket. The Honda crank pulley tool won't work, because it's a pre-1990 Honda/Acura. How the Hell do I get this thing off?

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

Get a bigger breaker bar?

PhreaKwenCi

Ok guys, got the bolt off and installed the new timing belt and water pump but it won't turn over. It tries to start but doesn't turn over. I've set the Tdc marks correctly according to the shop manual but nada. All the other belts are properly installed and tightened. I've had to retime this thing twice because the first time it jumped, not sure why, new tensioner and belt and pump. Got it set and now it won't start.

Im so pissed at this thing right now.


What the hell am i doing wrong?

holmesnmanny

If it jumped then you may have valve damage. Do a compression test. Be careful doing it just in case it wants to jump again. Just crank it a couple times and check to see if it's still in time before proceeding. Make sure to do the tension procedure directly by the book.

PhreaKwenCi

my main issue is that the TDC marks are not white but 2 red dots. I'm worried that the timing is off if the marks are incorrect.

m90polk1

​​​​​ If the timing arrows are in the correct position on the cam gears and pointed up the while the other 2 marks line up with the head, the crank pulley should have 4 marks I believe. 2-3 are close to each other and used for ignition timing the other further away is tdc for pulley and there should be a reference arrow on the oil pump and plastic cover for this. Always, always, always rotate the crank 3-4 full rotations by hand prior to starting the car if any issues such as tensioner loose, incorrect timing or piston to valve contact happens then it will do no damage. You probably bent a valve already, especially if it jumped timing. Also a torch to remove the pulley it the worst idea, it will destroy the outter seal on the oil pump behind the crank pulley and it will start leaking oil from there.

PhreaKwenCi

So I was correct, the two red dots that I was using for timing, are completely off. They're not even close for the piston to be at TDC. I set the cam shaft TDC marks and then rotated the crank and noticed that the timing was way off. The camshaft are now set. Can I do a compression test by just hand cranking? I could on my old ford but it was non interference.

PhreaKwenCi

Update, tightened the be tensioner but it's still loose at the top when at TDC. Could my tension spring be bad? Or is there a better way to tension the belt then just setting it and tightening the tensioner?

m90polk1

There is a sequence that you need to do when tightening the tensioner pulley, you can't just put the belt on and tighten it. There are many write-ups on how to do the timing belt properly and can also be found in Haynes repair manual. Compression test by hand no, get the timing belt all situated and then see if you can fully rotate the engine a couple times without resistance. Any resistance and you know it probably bent a valve.

PhreaKwenCi

OK, I only have access to the shop manual. And it's nothing listed in there for the way that needs to be done. Also I searched, and nothing came up for tensioner adjustment for a first GEN timing belt. Is it stickied somewhere? Because I searched and couldn't find it. Can you link me to one of the write ups, cause I'm having a bitch of a time trying to find it.

m90polk1

I'm going to assume you have the d16a1 same as zc or similar to b series setup...D16A1 motor (DOHC). The directions in my Haynes manual tell me to put the cams with the "UPs" facing up and the timing marks lineup with the top of the head on the side of the gears, then rotate the crankshaft pulley counter-clockwise three teeth to get some tension on the belt between the exhaust cam and the crankshaft sprocket, then tighten up the tensioner. Rotate the crankshaft 4 revolutions counter clockwise until the cams have fully rotated once. Tighten the tensioner to the correct torque and then check timing marks all line up. If they do then rotate the motor 2 more full rotations of camshafts and check to make sure everything lines up, if so then you are good. At any point if the timing jumps redo the whole process. It's the same procedure as the b series.

m90polk1

To be honest you should have been 100% as far as what you were doing prior to attempting this, the fact your manual didn't include any info about the tensioner seems to throw a red flag right away. Haynes repair manuals always have a detailed write-up with pictures, the little money you spend on them can save you tons in the long run.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

On a DOHC motor, as the length of belt from the crank pulley to the nearest cam pulley tightens, it advances that cam shaft 1 tooth when the belt tightens. You need to compensate for this before tightening.

1990IntegraLS

This guy is absolutely right. For me, most of the work is before I touch a wrench, unless I've done the specific job a few times. Then sometimes I get opinions here, but do a bunch of research 1st...and have more than one manual per vehicle....and AllData. Overkill maybe, but it's better to have more tools then not enough. I just did my timing belt and water pump on mine. I'm not much of a mechanic, but i got it right. I even got "eric the car guys" video. This car mean a lot to me.

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