CKnight90

So here's a story that I'll try to make short...

My Phoenix Gold Amp (FGA is what I'm going to refer it as) kept going into protection mode. So I wasn't sure at the time that it was one bad coil in Phoenix Gold Sub (FGS). Be before I found that out. I turned my FGA down. Disconnected my Stock sub wires. Disconnected my speaker wire from my FGS box. Then connected it to my stock sub. Remember at the time I thought it was the FGA itself. Anyways doing this made my stock back speakers & stock sub stop working. I checked my radio fuse. The inav head unit works fine with front speakers. I put my multimeter on milli amp. Noticed a 16.75 draw. Found out the amp fuse under the hood was causing the big draw. Removing it pus the draw to .01.


Not sure to go from here & locations of amp. Just need detailed info & instructions at this point. Thanks!

fcm

My guess is the stock amp [Pioneer] is no good or it's protection circuit shuts down the amp completely , [no sub and no rear speakers], I know very little about the stock amp but looking at some pix of it tells me there are too many terminals for it to be just a sub amp and is most likely running sub(s) and rear speakers and connecting up a speaker with a shorted VC triggers it's protection circuit.

Replacing the bad speaker should solve the problem. 94

CKnight90

Yeah but I've removed the battery connection, backup fuse, & amp fuse. Yet the amp runs when car alarm is armed.


Checking a bad speaker I run a ohm test. Should be between 4 to 3 right?

fcm

Wait what??

Are you saying the batt, still drains overnight even when amps are disconnected and alarm is armed?

If so the alarm is the problem, a 4 ohm speaker will get a reading of almost 4 ohms "static", [cone not moving] that will change as cone moves either way from it's resting spot, a bad speaker VC may be bad in just one spot, a short may be, [and almost always is] at either the top or bottom of its movement so the amp only "sees" the short at full excursion of the cone, [in or out].

The best way to test a speaker is to hold it by it's magnet, with cone facing ear, and banging on the back of the magnet and listen for a rattle, [VC separated from coil former] or evenly pushing/pulling cone its full excursion in and out and listening/feeling for any scraping, [burnt VC].

FYI wattage almost never blows a speaker, distortion blows speaker, when an amp, [any wattage] is driven too hard it will distort/clip, [square wave] when it does that the output changes from AC currant to DC currant, and DC produces heat, hence burnt speaker VCs = blown speaker, the amp sees the burnt/shorted VC and in your case, [your amp] goes into protection mode, amps that do not have a "protection mode" just blow their outputs. 94

holmesnmanny

you need to do a parasitic drain test

CKnight90

Ok. So I took the negative battery terminal and removed it from the battery. Took my volt meter. Put the negative lead to my negative battery post. Took my positive leado and connected it home my negative wire. Put it on milli amps. I get around 16-17 being drained. I removed my amp fuse under the hood and the milli amps dropped to .14 Remember my doors were locked and nothing else running. My draining stopped and I've been able to start my car next day. I did remove my center console today. Found the amp. Checked connections. Took it apart to inspect it. Put everything back together. Unplugged the stock back speakers. Tuned car on. Connected one speaker. Power cycled. Tried 2nd speaker. Still no luck.

So could I of blown the sub & back speakers outlets on the amp?


Here's a vid of my test. Again nothing powered on & doors locked.