pre loading the suspension??
03-13-2007, 08:45 PM
#1
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pre loading the suspension??
my friend just got a Funtion and Form full coil-over system for hes ef and we getting ready to instal it, it is his daily drive and a fully built 450 hp motor, it has a crossmember already, new bushings, and a set of bfgoodrich, the questio is how much preload do we need to set on the coil overs, whats the differnce between too much and too little? what would be the best balance for street and weekends trips to the track??
03-14-2007, 09:27 AM
#3
Re: (shoryuuu)
The easiest way to preload these coil-overs is like this:
- Back the lock nut at the tip of the shock shaft all the way out until there is not shock shaft sticking out (all threads still engaged)
- Spin the lower spring perch up until the spring seats on both top & bottom perches (not tight though)
- Lock down the lower perch with the second locking perch
- Now install all four shock assemblies like normal
- Put the car on the ground and tighten & torque the top nuts like normal
- Now set your ride height by messing with the lower shock mount
When you tighten the top nuts at ride height, the weight of the car compresses the spring. This allows you to tighten the top nut like normal, but now there will be preload on the spring just like the stock setup. Now when you want to take the springs out, you have to back off that top nut before you lift the car off the ground. This will release the preload so everything comes apart easily...
Preload isn't always necessary. On a car, all it does is increase the amount of shock compression travel you have (at the expense of droop travel). This comes in handy when your lowered, but can hurt you if the car is too low. Too much compression travel can allow your front upper control arms to hit the shock tower and eventually dent it's way into the engine bay. If you run into this problem (you'll hear it), just reduce the amount of preload or remove it completely as shoryuuu explained...
- Back the lock nut at the tip of the shock shaft all the way out until there is not shock shaft sticking out (all threads still engaged)
- Spin the lower spring perch up until the spring seats on both top & bottom perches (not tight though)
- Lock down the lower perch with the second locking perch
- Now install all four shock assemblies like normal
- Put the car on the ground and tighten & torque the top nuts like normal
- Now set your ride height by messing with the lower shock mount
When you tighten the top nuts at ride height, the weight of the car compresses the spring. This allows you to tighten the top nut like normal, but now there will be preload on the spring just like the stock setup. Now when you want to take the springs out, you have to back off that top nut before you lift the car off the ground. This will release the preload so everything comes apart easily...
Preload isn't always necessary. On a car, all it does is increase the amount of shock compression travel you have (at the expense of droop travel). This comes in handy when your lowered, but can hurt you if the car is too low. Too much compression travel can allow your front upper control arms to hit the shock tower and eventually dent it's way into the engine bay. If you run into this problem (you'll hear it), just reduce the amount of preload or remove it completely as shoryuuu explained...
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