I have an EK Sedan, and it's lowered to its maximum rate.

Are you saying that I do not need a camber kit for my car? I just wanted to confirm.

 

read the thread.s title...if you want one..get one. but you dont need one. just get your toes pedicured.

 

Nice one

 

That's good to know. I am dropping my 94 Integra 1.5 on Tein Springs, was just about to look into a camber kit.. Thanks for the info!!

 

thanks for the write up. that has helped me in my contemplation of camber kits.

 

so im seeing alot of pros and cons to having a camber kit well my friends been working on cars for ten years for a dealership and he owns a pretty sick ride and knows his stuff and he told me that the camber kit is worth it so im going with what he says. my tires do keep going fast so ill post if the camber kit does solve the problem when i get it and onto my slammed del sol.

 

i'm curious if it effects wear on slammed cars myself. with a normal ride height there is no need for a camber kit and washers out back solve that problem. toe is where all the wear comes from. since the couple honda guys i know as well as myself are more concerned with going fast, being slammed is something none of us are.

 

Guess what - most people in the slammed thread don't run camber kits, either, mainly because of clearance problems.

Sure you won't have tire wear problems after getting the kit installed, because the alignment shop is going to adjust toe in addition to dialing in the camber. And that's if they do a competent job of that.

 

As said, it is common that slammed cars wear the tires on the inside, but cheap (or maybe even expenside) Upper Control Arms with camber adjustment capability, often bend due to bad pavment on the strets. Also, it is common for the allen bolts to losen up, and change values, requiring another alignment (in Portugal I don't know any store that is capable to do that with CK's).

Keep your car with mild lowering, not so beautifull, but often more efficient and money saving setup.

 

That's a good one..............

Guess all of the guys who are winning races on wider tires need to take some advise from your wise words.

 

When I dialed out most of the camber on my NSXs (other settings, including toe remained the same) my tires lasted almost three times as long.

 

That's a good one indeed. Guess you drive an F1 car on the street also.

 

Thanks patrick for saving me some money.

 

very informative. thanks.

 

Not at all, but blindly stating that 195 is the widest you should go on a civic is plain wrong. Care to explain how a wider tire will cause handling problems great enough to outweigh the benefits? In most race classes that doesn't limit tire size you see the majority of cars running larger tires that don't seem to be having any handling problems.

There are a lot of things a civic was not designed for, but do quite well.

 

yeah most "race" civics(92-00) run bigger tires than a 195. and if they are running a 195 it is due to rules or they are on the rear while running a staggered setup. my last few sets of daily tires are 205 for 15s. my steelies are 185s on 14s.

like i stated somewhere else rodney ran an autox car with 275s and i want to say i saw somewhere tage evanson is now running them in redline events.

 

LMAO I cant beleave some of the BS posted in this thread and that the BS has been stickied.

 

OK, like I tried to convey in my previous post I was referring for the most to dd.

Maybe US roads are smooth as baby skin but here in Europe they'r not. So this is what I mean with handling problems: to wide a tire will, due to the civic dw setup, suffer too much effect from road deformities. (I don't know the exact term but I mean foremost the grooves that are caused by road wear and overloaded trucks and such)

Another thing: why did Honda 'only' put 195 on the 185hp EK9? This car was meant to be taken to the circuit. Agreed it's not meant as a die hard race car but still.

 

this cleared up a lot of concerns i had about "slamming" my teg

 

The OP is spot on IF all you want to do is drop your car. Fix the toe and the wear on your tires will be fairly even. Now, if you want the car to handle well enough to autox or track it, you will need to correct the camber. Using a quality adjustable upper arm in the rear and a good camber plate in the front will allow you to dial in exactly what you need.

I can't stress enough that these are not needed if you just want to DD the car slammed.

 

though the typeR is made "to be taken to the circuit" you have to understand that other consumers might only take the car from a to b. most "bigger" sized tire are performance tires with lower treadwear ratings. so if fitted with those the other consumers will be pissed they are replacing their tires 3 times as much as their tires they had on their corolla s. lol.

 

This thread is full of so much bullshit, I think im at the rodeo. I cant believe horrible missinformation like this gets stickied

 

I AGREE 100%

 

super slammed cars dont run camber kits!!! i've seen the damage the ck does when slammed =S learned from experience....also i've noticed than 40 series tires do wear on the inside even if its properly aligned, gotta try the 50's see if they last me longer or wear evenly this time around.

 

Tires aren't designed to be run with negative camber. Dry and wet performance will suffer with negative camber in a street car. If you drag race, having negative camber also effects your short times.

The correct way to lower a car is to correct the camber unless it's a show car.